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Thread: .357 cast bullets

  1. #1

    .357 cast bullets

    Hi, ive recently got involved with casting bullets from range scrap for my marlin 1894 in .357
    Im now hooked and am looking for anyone with experience in producing accurate rounds (for fox and rabbit)
    As the lead is range scrap it already contains some tin/antimony, Im quenching with water and the results look good. Cant load anything yet as I want to size first.
    Im using borrowed /club gear at the moment but have a lube + size kit, mould on order which is taking toooo long!
    Anyone have any kit for sale? moulds etc? Thanks, cant post in wanteds yet as not enough posts.


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  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by devonair View Post
    Hi, ive recently got involved with casting bullets from range scrap for my marlin 1894 in .357
    Im now hooked and am looking for anyone with experience in producing accurate rounds (for fox and rabbit)
    As the lead is range scrap it already contains some tin/antimony, Im quenching with water and the results look good. Cant load anything yet as I want to size first.
    Im using borrowed /club gear at the moment but have a lube + size kit, mould on order which is taking toooo long!
    Anyone have any kit for sale? moulds etc? Thanks, cant post in wanteds yet as not enough posts.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    I can't help you with molds and gear, but I have been reloading cast bullets for 40 years. One bit of advice: Get all your scrap together and melt it into one large quantity of metal. Makes for a better continuity of bullet. ~Muir

    PS: Don't quench the bullets from the mold. It is a dubious practice DESPITE it's apparent popularity. I have had long 6.5 and 30 caliber bullets bend from sudden and unequal cooling using that method. Accuracy really sucked!!

    PPS Have you slugged the bore of your Marlin to see how big it is? Have you measured the throating?? You should.
    Last edited by Muir; 09-08-2013 at 03:48.

  3. #3

    .357 cast....

    Thanks Muir, I have slugged the barrel from the muzzle to chamber at .355". Throat; .357.

    Ive ordered the lee kit below but Ive been waiting several weeks already, i may be able to change my order. The Lee Lube + Size kit also comes in .356 and .358, do you think .356 kit would be a better choice then?

    Re quenching; I was dropping cast bullets onto towel suspended in water, no signs of deformity but will avoid this in future, I will just turn them out onto damp towel?

    Ref the uniformity of hardness; good point, any surplus lead from each session goes into yorkshire pudding moulds ready for next time ( all clean, dry and fluxed)

    Cant wait to shoot a few bunnies (and fox maybe) with homemade rounds.
    Ive had good success with Blue Dot + 158gn privi jacketed getting sub 2"@ 100yrds with Marlin microgroove barrel 18.5"


    http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_181_183 _470&products_id=1774

    http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_181_476 &products_id=1536

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  4. #4
    I would look to a .358 kit, myself but since you have a measured .357 throat, you can run with it. A better way to heat treat bullets is to heat them in a rack a a temp just below melting. For my 9:1 Wheel weight/linotype bullets this is about 455 degrees F. I let them heat for 1 hour then plunge the pan into room temp h2o. I make racks to hold the bullets nose up (old cookie pans screwed together and drilled for the bullet) and take pains to quench uniformly. I heat treat mostly rifle bullets from 225 to 45 caliber using this method. If you are using a GC bullet, size with the check but do not lube, then heat treat. Shooters in the Cast Bullet Assn. have found that bullets with annealed checks shoot better. I think it's true.

    I will be looking at deer hunting with my Model 27 S&W and some 158 grain lead bullets. It will be interesting to compare notes.~Muir

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