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Thread: Cleaning Fluid Test

  1. #1

    Cleaning Fluid Test

    I have so many cleaning fluids and every one is meant to be the best on the market!!!!! well I decided to do a simple test.
    I put a bullet into different pot for each of the cleaning fluids, Then added the fluids as labelled. In the 1st pic the fluid was left for 5mins...



    The 2nd pic is 11/2hrs later. The big pot is Forest Bore Foam after 20mins.... I forgot to do that one from the start.






    As you can see the wipe out & accelerator starts removing copper almost instantly.
    The Forest Bore Foam is almost as quick.
    The rest shows no signs of removing copper.
    the eco gun oil is a dark green fluid and there was no change in colour.

    I repeat this is a simple test and therefore not scientific.
    Last edited by mildot; 29-10-2013 at 23:54.

  2. #2
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
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    Ive found that Wipe Out with Accelorator is the best cleaner.

    Ive tried CR2, I like it, but it doesnt work as well as WO.

    Ive tried most products, Wipe Out is the one that works for me and has done for the last two years, im running several rifles, including a couple of F Class "race guns", they need to be 100% clean.

    When I was in the states in August for a comp, with several others, we found that some of the products taken didnt clean as well as they did in the UK - probably down to the heat and heavier fouling experienced.

    Wipe Out for me...

  3. #3
    Whe I was working at the Rifle Store in Hodnet Ten Years ago we carried out similar tests. Wipe out/patch out/accelerator was not available then. At the time the clear winner was KG 12 that would strip a 2pence piece back to the steel disc over night. We still use KG products and like them very much indeed. We also use wipe out for 95% of our cleaning work and have found it truly excellent. Barnes CR2 is very similar to Sweets 7.62 and G96 copper solvent as it needs to be agitated using a nylon brush to get oxygen into the solvent to get it to work to its maximum potential . All three of those solvents should not be left in the bore for more than ten minutes, and require oil back in the bore afterwards.
    The foam cleaners we find a little messy and wasteful bearing in mind the amount of rifles we clean during the course of a week Yours respectfully Mike Norris Brock and Norris custom rifles
    Last edited by brock and norris; 30-10-2013 at 08:36.

  4. #4
    SD Regular
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    I am very interested in what was left UNSAID in the Brck and Norris response regarding the new style 2p pieces. Was the steel underneath the copper wash on that coin affected at all by the overnight exposure to the KG12...and...if not where can I get KG12 and what do I ask for?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by enfieldspares View Post
    where can I get KG12 and what do I ask for?
    You ask for KG12, you can get it from here http://www.tacfiresystems.co.uk/store/cleaning-accessories/kg-cleaning-products/
    I like it, but find it works much better after cleaning any carbon fouling out first.

    Neil.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by enfieldspares View Post
    I am very interested in what was left UNSAID in the Brck and Norris response regarding the new style 2p pieces. Was the steel underneath the copper wash on that coin affected at all by the overnight exposure to the KG12...and...if not where can I get KG12 and what do I ask for?
    Nothing Hidden or implied by omission. The steel was unaffected and having used it on many, many barrels......... including my own! I have no reservation in recommending it as a great solvent. It does however require a slightly different methodology to other solvents.Using a patch run the wet patch slowly through the bore, IE . thirty seconds from chamber to muzzle and then thirty seconds back . fouling will be a brown colouration on the patch. Three or four patches usually deals with most everyday copper fouling. You can leave the bore wet overnight with no issues what so ever. For a more aggressive application one can scrub using a nylon brush.
    yours respectfully Mike Norris Brock and Norris Custom Rifles

  7. #7
    Getting it to soak into a patch is easier said than done; it has amazing surface tension and runs right off fabrics in globules.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by dvbookshop View Post
    Getting it to soak into a patch is easier said than done; it has amazing surface tension and runs right off fabrics in globules.
    Really, KG12 seems to soak into any patch I have tried easily.

    Neil.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by dvbookshop View Post
    Getting it to soak into a patch is easier said than done; it has amazing surface tension and runs right off fabrics in globules.
    Use cotton flannel not cotton twill and push the patch onto to spout of the bottle . the solvent , when you gently squeeze the bottle will be taken into the patch. after the initial absorption you will find that the patch absorbs the kg 12 readily.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by brock and norris View Post
    Use cotton flannel not cotton twill and push the patch onto to spout of the bottle . the solvent , when you gently squeeze the bottle will be taken into the patch. after the initial absorption you will find that the patch absorbs the kg 12 readily.
    Hi B&R
    Have you ever heard of using kroil to loosen the copper before using a stripper and if so what are your thoughts please
    Regards
    Jimmy

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