One round for 243 fox/deer

karlbird

Well-Known Member
Gents,

I am new to CF shooting, and the help I am getting on here is invaluable - hopefully one day I will be able to give something back and not just take knowledge… Until then, this weeks question is….

To those that shoot 243. Do you change bullet and re-zero when shooting different species (fox v deer) or stick with one round?

At the moment I am trying PPU 100gr as a cheap intro. I know this will kill Charlie and there is no such thing as overkill, but I read that I may be better with a BT in a lighter round for more violent expansion, range and flatter trajectory?

I am trying to be cheap, I don't have the time or inclination to re-load, so its factory all the way - for now. The PPU is nearly half the price of anything else out there. I wouldn't mind paying more, if it gets me a big advantage, if you get me.

It might seem like an obvious/silly question to those in the know, but the vast array of ammo vs my more comfortable rimfire baffles my rather small mind.

If it makes any difference the rifle is a Howa 1500.
 
To be honest its not worth applying too much thought to it if the deer are considered first with regards to a suitable bullet, as foxes don't have to be shot with the latest most explosive varmint bullet out there. What deer species are you shooting?

BC is something I don't even look at in a bullet for stalking/foxing distances as you won't see any advantage within those ranges whatsoever.

Factory rounds still need a bit of trial and error as to what your rifle shoots well with. I recently bought some 100grn Norma SP for an older model Sako 243. I have all the reloading stuff for that chambering but no brass so thought 40 factory would do and then use the cases as it's not a rifle used a lot. The accuracy was so good there is actually no point in me bothering to reload for it. That bullet will be good for roe, hinds and foxes.

Federal 80grn SP was another factory load I used on occasion for roe and foxes, also accurate but not quite as food as the Norma.

You out will get a lot of different suggestions but without trying a few you won't know for certain...

Only factory rounds I didn't like from years ago were Sako as the bullets did not expand well at all with kills on red hinds being delayed. After that experience on a few I never used them again. They may well be better nowadays however...
 
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If your are wanting to stalk on the nearby reds, I would stick with the 100s (Prvi also have a 90). I've just started reloading and am sticking with 95 noslers for an all rounder, but I have a good few Prvi 100s left and plan to pull and reload these for a consistent shot. I have a clone of your rifle.
 
no fox I ever saw withstood a soft point bullet from a .243
choose one, shoot it

that said for my .222 which is fox first and deer second I have two loads
52gr AMax
60gr Soft Point

The soft points shoot 1.5" higher than the AMax.
I can deal with that and just zero dead on for Amax at 100yds gives me a 220yd zero for soft points

if it was away off vertical I wouldn't bother, too much hassle
 
Thanks guys, helpful as ever.

Primarily it will be taking Charlie, deer are a bit thin on the ground on my permissions and the FEO said I need more experience first (and land with a worthwhile number on) before he would give me deer on my license - but thats a different topic.

What I did not want was to get used to the gun, zeroed and 'zoned in' to it with one round, only to have to change, hence choosing 100gr PPU and sticking with them for now.
 
unless you're going for fallow/sika/red deer, then the federal 85g hollow point (scierra gameking) is an awesome round. if you prefer soft point and the ability to use on larger deer species, look no further than the 100g norma soft point.

best to factory rounds for the .243 IMHO...mind, the bog standard 100g federal Soft Point in the blue box, has taken some big stags for me as well

Gents,

I am new to CF shooting, and the help I am getting on here is invaluable - hopefully one day I will be able to give something back and not just take knowledge… Until then, this weeks question is….

To those that shoot 243. Do you change bullet and re-zero when shooting different species (fox v deer) or stick with one round?

At the moment I am trying PPU 100gr as a cheap intro. I know this will kill Charlie and there is no such thing as overkill, but I read that I may be better with a BT in a lighter round for more violent expansion, range and flatter trajectory?

I am trying to be cheap, I don't have the time or inclination to re-load, so its factory all the way - for now. The PPU is nearly half the price of anything else out there. I wouldn't mind paying more, if it gets me a big advantage, if you get me.

It might seem like an obvious/silly question to those in the know, but the vast array of ammo vs my more comfortable rimfire baffles my rather small mind.

If it makes any difference the rifle is a Howa 1500.
 
+1 for the Norma 100g SP - amazing performance. :)


that's one round I've successfully seen hydrostatic shock in roe with from up to 150yds...instant coma/collapse. that bullet delivers energy very effectively in my experience..but is not cheap.
 
Primarily it will be taking Charlie, deer are a bit thin on the ground on my permissions and the FEO said I need more experience first (and land with a worthwhile number on) before he would give me deer on my license - but thats a different topic. .

I love the fact that you can go out shooting at night in very tricky conditions but "you need more experience" in order to be allowed to shoot deer!!
morons!
 
Another fan of the 100grain Norma SP. I bought a Tikka T3 varmint a few years ago and a few boxes of the Norma ammunition. I've shot a couple of reds, many roe and many many foxes a squirrel, couple of crows and a couple of rabbits between 15 & 300 yds everything has been dead. If your rifle can stabilise the 100 grain bullet, some don't like it, and you can hit a 4" circle at all ranges you intend to shoot then that would be my choice, there's no messing then having to consider how different bullets perform ie difference in trajectory. Just get the crosshairs on, squeeze trigger = something dead
 
I love the fact that you can go out shooting at night in very tricky conditions but "you need more experience" in order to be allowed to shoot deer!!
morons!


LOL...indeed Ed...much more dangerous to go shooting deer (normally at closer ranges than fox) during daylight hours where you can actually SEE the backstop...

what is the world coming to? honestly!
 
I use factory rounds in my 700, 75 for fox and 95 for deer....They both keep true for left and right, just the 95's drop quicker at distance as you would expect.

The 95's are more expensive but I don't use many of them. Depends on what you are going to do with your gun and how aggressive you will be with your shooting.
My fox control has opened up loads of shooting doors for very little cost, so I am happy to use a more expensive round that I know where and what it is doing...

Tim.243
 
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Thanks guys, helpful as ever.

Primarily it will be taking Charlie, deer are a bit thin on the ground on my permissions and the FEO said I need more experience first (and land with a worthwhile number on) before he would give me deer on my license - but thats a different topic.

What I did not want was to get used to the gun, zeroed and 'zoned in' to it with one round, only to have to change, hence choosing 100gr PPU and sticking with them for now.

You make a lot of sense and, as a self-confessed noob, you aren't going to be thinking about 200 yard plus shots at either deer or fox so don't need to worry about bullet drop at longer range.

Providing your rifle will stabilise 100grainers you're following what many gamekeepers consider a very practical working tool. If 100 grainers won't stabilise, go down to 95/90/85 grain bullets.

Interesting that your FEO thinks you should gain your experience shooting at smaller targets.
 
as you dont have deer on your FAC i would forget the deer bullets (you wont be shooting deer with the rifle will you?), its inherently safer to shoot a lighter, more frangiable bullet at small targets in the dark. pass throughs happen less often and ricochets are more likely to end up with a fragmented bullet or one wich looses its energy more quickly. i shoot foxes with deer bullets sometimes but i would never let anyone do it on my ground.

with regard to gaining more experience, its not just the shooting, its the understanding of the deer laws, the seasons, the ethics, awareness of the depandant young and the carcass prep and food hygeine.

if i were you i'd stick to something in the region of 70gn for foxing. if you get your ticket for deer and learn a bit more, then consider what bullet to use (foxing bullets kill deer too you know!)

i particularly like the comment about worthwile number on the ground, if you have one on the ground, and have permission, thats a worthwhile number.
 
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You are welcome to try a box of 90 grain PPU if you want, am at the county end of the A17 if you are ever on the Notts border. I have always seen a very worthwhile number in your area while beating and thought your force was more enlightened than the comments made. Cheers Martyn.
 
I use Federal 100grain Power Shock through my Sako 85 .243 and it works a treat, very accurate! As said previously though, try a few and see whats best for your own rifle!
 
find what bullet your rifle shoots best and stick with it I use 105gr geco which works very well through my Heym sr21 243
 
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