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Thread: Cerakote Firearm coatings, the facts.

  1. #1

    Cerakote Firearm coatings, the facts.

    As there's been a lot of traffic on the Directory over the past months
    regarding firearm coatings, so I thought I'd write a snippet to help
    with people's questions and give the facts from my long and vast
    experience in this field.

    Cerakote is basically a liquid resin with powdered ceramic mixed in to
    create the formulation.

    Once applied and cured, it offers a very hard wearing protective
    surface, which is impervious to solvents and the elements offering
    excellent corrosion resistance.
    As well as giving a very hard and protective coating, it can also be used to great cosmetic advantage, from just brightening up a tired old rifle to hiding a multitude of different coloured components!

    Surfaces and applications are endless, if it stays put once applied
    anything can be coated and in the 8 years I've been using Cerakote and
    Duracoat I've coated more projects than I can remember.

    Experience has given me a very good understanding of what is required, what can be achieved and how surfaces are best prepared prior to coating, it really is child's play so don't panic if it goes wrong!

    That said though, it does get a little more complicated when multiple
    colours are used! As well as the requirement for some raw artistic
    talent, the blending of edges and combining of colours is something
    which can take an awful lot of practice to perfect.

    Air cure or oven cure:

    There is basically nothing between the two types but versatility and

    The C series is an air cure coating, no oven required, with no two part
    mixing required. Basically shake well, apply to your surface, allow to
    cure overnight and you're good to go.

    I've used the high temp C series on many items including Drag racing
    exhaust pipes to very good effect!

    The H series is a two part product and requires hardener to be mixed
    with the ceramic carrier, then apply to your chosen surface, which must
    be able to withstand a temp of around 190'...Don't put it next to the
    Lasagne, bad idea!

    Curing times, as I say, C series, I've handled work pieces after 12
    hours but I'd always recommend 24 hours.

    H series, a good hour at 190' some items may need longer but not

    Preparation of the surface:

    Now this is dependent on the type of surface to be coated. Beware, a
    lot of plastics are easily attacked by solvents or degreasers, so be
    careful what you choose.

    I now make my own degreaser from several different products to
    accommodate all surfaces. Its not always necessary to soak items in a
    degreasing tank, this can sometimes cause issues leading to coating
    As long as the surface is free from oil, grease and gunge, there's no
    more needed except make sure you have clean hands.

    Is it always necessary to grit blast??? No, it isn't always necessary,
    a good grade of 320 grit ally oxide paper to scuff your workpiece is
    sometimes enough...remember, these coatings were designed with the hobbyist in mind as well as a professional, not everyone has a grit blasting cabinet in the garage!

    However, grit blasting can help remove crap from a heavily soiled
    surface which is why ally oxide is used because it can be cleaned and
    recycled. When ally oxide isn't available kiln dried sand is a good
    second...the kids sand pit isn't an option!

    Masking off areas can be critical, I always check and double check what
    I do, it saves the heart rate once it's cured and bits don't fit anymore. Oops!

    It's never necessary to remove barrels from actions, the difference in
    coating thickness against the barrel face could actually alter your
    headspace anyway! Don't let anyone tell you otherwise either, it's just another cost anyway.

    Coating action raceways is ok providing you don't go over the top, if it's a tight action perhaps ask it to be masked off but don't forget it will wear in and as it does you need to clean the action and lightly
    oil it.

    Same goes for scope rings and bolts but it needs to be applied
    carefully and the inside of the rings lapped slightly after to prevent
    marking the scope tube...The ceramic goes hard after curing and can abrade the scope surface.

    As will all surface coating nothing is totally wear resistant. If you
    knock the surface hard enough it will mark or shift it. It's only a
    coating after all, however with care it lasts a very long time.

    Toxicity, all coating products from liquid to atomised spray vapour
    are poisonous. Once dry and cured there are no issues.

    Costing for coating work:

    Well to be fair it's mostly time, and it takes me 30-40 actual time to prep and coat a barrel and action start to finish. The coating does cost a bit, but it goes a long way!

    Barrel, action, bottom metal and bolt knob, easily worth 85, throw the mod in at the same time 100. Plus postage.

    Stocks depending on prep work 85-100. Wooden stocks can be done in the same way.

    Moderators 20

    Rings/bases 20

    Mags 15 multiples cheaper.

    Mag and bottom metal 30

    Standard rail 15

    Scopes from 50. There is a bit of work that goes into this.

    Bipods 25

    Knives 10 (Swords, machetes etc excluded. )

    Cats/dogs/wife and kids POA

    Camo patterns or Tacticool camo patterns can easily be achieved, no dark art in any of it.

    There is a clearcoat that can be applied if you don't fancy a colour. Again this the same as any other colour but clear.
    Good for Guns on the shoreline, pigeon shooting etc. I have to say though you can't beat the personal touch of a selected colour.

    Might as well add...

    Threading jobs done to a high standard. 40, 50 with re crown, 75 for shortening, threading and crowning including postage.

    Barrel jobs, using Excellent Bergara barrels, 550 all in plus postage.

    Small jobs that really don't take long, I ask for HFH donations.

    All I can add is please ask if you think I've missed anything.

    I hope this is a bit of helpful info.

    Last edited by Jager SA; 21-02-2014 at 20:13.

  2. #2
    Very informative thanks ill be in touch as soon as ive had a little re profile work done.

  3. #3
    Fishing rod rest tops, don't forget them

    I just collected my first coated items from James, excellent job, very happy with the quality and price.
    Pretty sure the complete rifle will not be sitting here long before it's time for a colour change


  4. #4
    I have reccomnde jager and his coating to quite a few guy in my local gun club and some stalking mates.
    The finish is **** hot,and really does look very good on my T3,barell action and mod,very subtle but also different,and at the price he's doing an absolute bargain compared to bluing.

  5. #5
    Can you get a shiny finish with cerakote, what im getting at is could you do shotgun barrels so they look like the original bluing but a lot more resilient..?

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by gelert View Post
    I have reccomnde jager and his coating to quite a few guy in my local gun club and some stalking mates.
    The finish is **** hot,and really does look very good on my T3,barell action and mod,very subtle but also different,and at the price he's doing an absolute bargain compared to bluing.
    if you dont mind gelert could you post a pic of the t3 please regards doug.

  7. #7
    hi - really useful info.

    How is the best way to get barrels etc to you ...... Colchester is a bit of a hike from North Devon!


  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by AN DU RU FOX View Post
    if you dont mind gelert could you post a pic of the t3 please regards doug.

    Gunmetal grey I went for in the end,almost the same colour as a gun cabinet,ish.

  9. #9
    thanks gelert nice one, should have kept my mouth shut ,some more to save up for .thanks doug.

  10. #10
    Excellent work from James .. I sent my rifle to him from Ayrshire..

    It was pillar bedded, cut and recrowned and cerokoated for a very reasonable
    price .. recommended.

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