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Thread: Bedding A Wee Stutzen

  1. #1

    Bedding A Wee Stutzen

    I'm about to correctly bed what henceforth will be known as my Freezer & Large Screwdriver Rifle.

    Given its of stutzen configuration I am toying with the idea of FULLY bedding the barrel.

    Does anyone have first-hand experience of such an approach?



  2. #2
    What make is it, and why would you want fully bed the barrel ? My stutzen has a fully floated barrel

  3. #3

    You could be asking for trouble! Knowing how tweaky stutzens can be to get barrel either fully floated or nose pads tuned, You could be playing for ages!

    What rifle is it?

    Where is the barrel bedded now & wot's wrong with it? & does it shoot straight now?

    If it really NEEDS re-bedding - sure do that - under the action & replicate any original pressure point contacts - but let the barrel have some of its natural freedom to "ring". Full length contact invites all kinds of stress & damping interference problems.

    If it ain't bust - don't mend it!


  4. #4
    Having done a few I have a recipe that usually works. I bed the action and a couple of inches of barrel down tight. I put a couple of layers of duct tape on the rest of the barrel to provide some breathing room for the barrel channel. I cut a long groove in the barrel channel that will accept a piece of threaded rod extending to as near the muzzle as possible. If the rifle has a metal tip I eihter modify it to remove contact with the barrel or make a new free-floating version of rosewood or ebony. When the stock is ready for bedding I fill the channel for the rod with epoxy, drop the rod it and then fill the other areas to include the full barrel channel for bedding with epoxy before setting in the barrel/action. If I have properly coated the metal parts (to include the duct taped barreL) everything comes out easily and I have a properly bedded stuzen with room for the barrel to move and no other contact with the barrel. The entire channel is now sealed with epoxy and it is virtually as stable as a fiberglas stock but with the warmth of wood.


  5. #5
    Thanks for that. If I've interprited this correctly you're decribing a draditional action bedding procedure with a cunning approach to whippy forend stiffening?



  6. #6

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by MARCBO View Post
    No doubt the purists will be along to suggest this will negatively change the "balance" but I would happily give it a go were this not a very compact stutzen. That said I'll take another look once pillar bedded.


  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by MARCBO View Post
    and it is virtually as stable as a fiberglas stock
    stocks famous for their rigidity.....

    i suspect your metal reinforced wood is significantly more stable than the host of hollow "dildo" stocks out there

  9. #9
    Would a tubular section of carbon fibre perform well enough to be used instead of the metal bar? I'm thinking this might upset the balance less?

  10. #10
    Just to throw in an alternative view, Craig Boddington in accurate rifles in a whole chapter on bedding recounts how with a Mannlicher stocked rifle free floating etc didn't work. What did work was positive pressure bedding about half way along the barrel at the point where the forend normally is. You can try this easily by packing a business card or two under the barrel at that point and try it.

    I fully glass lass bedded my 22rf and it works beautifully. I think the key is consistency. If the barrel is full bedded make sure it's properly bedded with a pit of pressure. If it's floating make sure it is truly floating. What causes problems is a barrel that's meant to be floating, but is sometimes touched by the forend, or fingers etc.

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