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Thread: Steel targets

  1. #1

    Steel targets

    Do they need to be a minimum thickness or anything?

    I have knocked a couple up and we are going to hang them from a kids swing frame (with a camo paint job ), but I just wanted to check they would be safe etc before we start shooting at them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  

  2. #2
    I have 6 1/4" steel discs hung up around the garden, and shoot air rifle and .22LR at them ... the lead just splashes. Shot one with a .222 recently, 40gr Nosler BT. Lovely 15mm hole straight through.

    You'll need something harder than mild steel for centrefire

    I haven't had anything bounce off mine, but they are free to move when hit, YMMV.

  3. #3
    This one must weigh about 4kg. They will be used for centrefire calibre's, I don't mind if we make a few holes in them, as long as they are safe to shoot at.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  

  4. #4
    they will go through easy enough but will work for a while, the only solution is using hardox,atb wayne

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  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkfish View Post
    This one must weigh about 4kg. They will be used for centrefire calibre's, I don't mind if we make a few holes in them, as long as they are safe to shoot at.
    Mild steel less than 3/4" thick will get smashed by centerfire hits. You need to use Ar 400/500 really. You will then get lots of lead 'spray' but mild steel will have fragments of steel/lead going all directions. Keep a minimum distance of 50m for safety, 200 for longevity.
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  6. #6
    digger bucket tooth ,or a plough sock both have holes to hang up and 30-06 proof ,

  7. #7
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    Anything of reasonable thickness (ie. that the bullet won't pass straight though), should be made of at least hardox 400. Anything milder can be dangerous to shoot with a centre fire, since bullets can ricochet off the uneven cratered surface. Hardox 400/500 on the other hand (even with non-steel cored FMJ bullets) will result in the bullets 'smashing' into the harder plate, producing a spray of lead and copper inline with the face of the place and minimal damage to the flat surface. Also use 8mm+ grade 8.8 bolts, since they can withstand direct hits and the 'spray' won't cut into them. Just remember that impact speed kills steel, so while a .338 may not scratch it a .223 can do significant damage!
    Last edited by Tiff; 02-04-2014 at 12:46.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiff View Post
    Anything of reasonable thickness (ie. that the bullet won't pass straight though), should be made of at least hardox 400. Anything milder can be dangerous to shoot with a centre fire, since bullets can ricochet off the uneven cratered surface. Hardox 400/500 on the other hand (even with non-steel cored FMJ bullets) will result in the bullets 'smashing' into the harder plate, producing a spray of lead and copper inline with the face of the place and minimal damage to the flat surface. Also use 8mm+ grade 8.8 bolts, since they can withstand direct hits and the 'spray' won't cut into them. Just remember that impact speed kills steel, so while a .338 may not scratch it a .223 can do significant damage!
    Cheers tiff, I was going to go more 'indepth' now I'm home, but you have beat me to it. Oh, mqc mk II is looking promising

    Pete
    Sako TRG-42 folder .338LM🔫 Sako TRG-22 .308/.260🔫 Tikka 595 .222(NV'd up) 🔫 AR15 .223/300BLK 🔫Franchi 12g 520 9shot🔫Baikal .410 stealth🔫Ruger #1.243

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  9. #9
    Tried making steel targets in the past with no look, got some lovely holes, that you would struggle to make with a drill

    got a couple of steel disc's from BH targets tried them last week at 100y & 300y, great fun made of AR 500 grade steel, very reasonable 13.50 for a 150mm gong, all the bullet impact did was remove the paint

    http://www.bhtargets.co.uk


    Regards
    Dean

  10. #10
    You dont need armour plate for steel targets, hot rolled steel plate is plenty hard enough.

    Ian.

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