.243 accuracy advice please.

VSS

Well-Known Member
When I first joined SD I couldn't hit a thing with my .22LR, but after all the advice I've had on here (and some practical help in the field from a SD member) I can now consistently shoot 5 shots into a single ragged hole at 50 yards, and confidently headshoot bunnies at 80 - 100 yards.
So, why can't I achieve anything even close to that with the .243? I've had it for just over a year now, but still not really getting to grips with it. All advice gratefully recieved!

I've no reason to suspect that anything's wrong with the rifle (P-H Safari Deluxe). It's old and well used, but fundamentally sound and in good nick.
The scope is a cheap Nikko Sterling, but brand new, so should be ok.
I don't expect outstanding accuracy from this set up, because it's all a bit "bargain basement", but I think I should be doing better than I am!

Ammunition I'm using is Hornady 95gn.

For convienence, I've been zeroing / practising at just 50 yards, so I've tried to zero 1" high at this range, which seems sensible.
Shooting prone off bipod.

Now the problem:
If I fire a 3 shot group, they're all about ok as far as height goes, but strung out in a line over 2"
So, maybe my first shot will be almost spot on, followed by the next one 1" to one side of it, then the next one 1" to the other.
Next attempt it might be the first shot 1" to one side, second shot about right, third shot 1" to the other side.
And so on.

With the .22 I just carried on practising 'til I got it right, but I can't be putting hundreds and hundreds of rounds through the .243 to achieve the same. Firstly, can't afford to and secondly would bugger up the barrel.

I suspect this is purely a technique thing, but possible minor rifle issues could be:
Trigger quite stiff.
Could do with re-crowning at some point in the not-too-distant future.
Pressure of forend on barrel - it just touches on one side, but good sized gap on the other.

Any ideas chaps?
 
Sounds like any one of the three issues you mention at the end might cause accuracy problems, or it could be something to do with technique......

is there anyone you know who could shoot your rifle and give you a second opinion (someone who you know to be a good shot that is)?
 
might just be technique IF its stringing horizontaly, ie not up down or scattered, as mike says you need to rule that out by someone else giving it a go,
 
The reason is uneven pressure in the action in letting or lateral stress, not maybe, it IS. Solution is glass bedding or live with it. An alternative is you buy Inletting blue, find the high spots and relieve them
 
At fifty yards I would be zeroing dead on and expect to be roughly an inch high at 100yds.

Two suggestions:


  • Ask a good shot to shoot your kit and see how it performs.
  • Try the good shot's kit and see how you perform.

One thing to check is your LOP and then your eye relief. Another as you have already mentioned is trigger pull. I got a row once for turning up with a Ruger MKII and a 9lb trigger pull.

Regards

JCS
 
At fifty yards I would be zeroing dead on and expect to be roughly an inch high at 100yds.

Two suggestions:


  • Ask a good shot to shoot your kit and see how it performs.
  • Try the good shot's kit and see how you perform.

One thing to check is your LOP and then your eye relief. Another as you have already mentioned is trigger pull. I got a row once for turning up with a Ruger MKII and a 9lb trigger pull.

Regards

JCS

9lb! Jeez john, that's more like trigger 'push'! At least you knew that stock was firmly in the shoulder joint before the shot went..lol
 
The reason is uneven pressure in the action in letting or lateral stress, not maybe, it IS. Solution is glass bedding or live with it. An alternative is you buy Inletting blue, find the high spots and relieve them

Can you just expand on these points a bit please PKL?
 
If you are finding the trigger noticeably stiff this will not help accuracy - try dry firing and observing for movement through the scope and if you can get a friend to load for you and occasionally not chamber a round without your knowledge this will indicate if there is problem with your technique. Otherwise check for rifle & scope issues such as loose mounts & screws etc. It may also be worth trying a different brand & weight of bullet e.g. 90 grn

atb Tim
 
At fifty yards I would be zeroing dead on and expect to be roughly an inch high at 100yds.

Ok, I can sort that, because the issue doesn't seem to be with the height adjustment.

Two suggestions:

  • Ask a good shot to shoot your kit and see how it performs.
  • Try the good shot's kit and see how you perform.

When I've used other people's kit I've generally performed ok, but I haven't had anyone else use my rifle since putting this scope on it.

If anyone nearby fancies dropping in for a bit of plinking, feel free...
 
Can you just expand on these points a bit please PKL?
First, take some sand paper and get that barrel cleared so there's no touching the sides of the barrel channel. I missed that earlier, do that, then check grouping. IMHO trigger weight won't create a lateral stringing pattern, yeah random patterns but not consistent lateral strings....barrel touching side could be it. If not it's 99% because the Inletting in the stock where the receiver sits wasn't cut perfectly and there's a slight side pressure somewhere on the receiver from the stock walls!!!or, the Inletting is not perfectly flat at the bottom of the stock so there's a twisting torque when the action screws are tightened. These issues can frequently cause lateral strings of shots. If you take the barrelled action out if the stock you might actually see high spots in black where the receiver has been wearing on the stock walls, same goes for the barrel in the barrel channel. Further research can be done with Inletting blue to artificially make these high spots show
 
First, take some sand paper and get that barrel cleared so there's no touching the sides of the barrel channel. I missed that earlier, do that, then check grouping. IMHO trigger weight won't create a lateral stringing pattern, yeah random patterns but not consistent lateral strings....barrel touching side could be it. If not it's 99% because the Inletting in the stock where the receiver sits wasn't cut perfectly and there's a slight side pressure somewhere on the receiver from the stock walls!!!or, the Inletting is not perfectly flat at the bottom of the stock so there's a twisting torque when the action screws are tightened. These issues can frequently cause lateral strings of shots. If you take the barrelled action out if the stock you might actually see high spots in black where the receiver has been wearing on the stock walls, same goes for the barrel in the barrel channel. Further research can be done with Inletting blue to artificially make these high spots show

That's very helpful, thanks.
Should I just slide the sandpaper in between the woodwork and the barrel and keep moving it about 'til all clear, or do I need to dismantle everything to sort this aspect out?
Also, lateral stringing - I thought this term applied to a situation where each successive shot is a little further over, so you're effectively shooting a line that increases by increments with each shot? In my case there's no consistency. One shot of the 3 is hitting the mark (more or less), with one landing each side. But not always the same one of the 3 in the same place. (If that makes sense?).
 
I had an issue with shots stringing left and right turned out to be loose mounts! Check all screws then check again! Hope this helps:D
 
That's very helpful, thanks.
Should I just slide the sandpaper in between the woodwork and the barrel and keep moving it about 'til all clear, or do I need to dismantle everything to sort this aspect out?
Also, lateral stringing - I thought this term applied to a situation where each successive shot is a little further over, so you're effectively shooting a line that increases by increments with each shot? In my case there's no consistency. One shot of the 3 is hitting the mark (more or less), with one landing each side. But not always the same one of the 3 in the same place. (If that makes sense?).

not sure of the definition of lateral stringing, I use it to describle sitations with groupings that have lateral dispersions, perhaps that's a better term to use in fact.

personally, I think every firearms user needs to understand how their rifle is put together and I highly recommend you screw the action screws out, take the whole thing apart and realise how simple a structure it really is! this will give you a chance to understand the anatomy of the firearm and to inspect the barrel channel and inletting area like I described.

I would also, when you have done enough google/youtube research, recommend you understand how to take the bolt to bits and reassemble as I personally believe should be done and re-oiled after every very wet outing.

if I was you I would take a bit of dowel or pipe with wet/dry or sandpaper wrapped around and relieve the barrel channel where it touches or comes close, or where you can see are high spots. you need to do this from inside the barrel, so yes, take the barrelled action (BA) out. if you return it with pretty much the same action screw pressure it will in no way affect your grouping or zero (or 'shouldn't')....

whilst you are at it, BA removed, apply some danish or linseed oil, or even better tru oil to the inside of the stock to seal the grain/open pores/bare wood. I would also urge you to buy a good gunstock wax like the Trade Secret GP wax and wax the inside of the barrel channel and inletting along with the rest of the stock, to help repel water and humidity and avoid future risk of warpage.

knowing the firearm inside out is key to understanding it's operation and how you need to maintain it to last a lifetime.

some people go almost a whole firearms lifetime without taking their rifle apart, and whilst I appreciate for them it's a tool, it's a bit like driving a car and then wondering one day why it broke down cuz there was no oil or why the brakes stopped working, etc.
 
Ditch the Bi-Pod and try using a bag instead.

Triggers can be adjusted although no all Safari's had adjustable triggers but then it's a Mauser std trigger which can be adjusted by stoning or simply fitting an adjustable replacement.

I still do not subscribe to the free floating mantra once again trotted out here.
 
I had 'stringing ' issues with my Howa .243W and blamed my equipment such as the barrel warming up, until I booked myself in at a range and had some coaching, when it became clear it was my shooting, and not my rifle. Get some tuition - it will pay off.
 
Whilst I'm a great believer in free floating barrels, I was under the impression that many of the PH sporter rifles were actually pressure bedded at the fore end. There is often very little wood to sand away to give adequate "free float" clearance. I would think twice before trying something that can't be undone.
 
Thanks for all the advice so far chaps.
Just to let you know where I'm up to:

I measured the trigger pull at a touch under 3lb, by the unscientific method of pulling on it with a spring balance until it fired. I don't know whether 3lb is good or bad - I await your collective opinion on this - but I just get the impression that it's stiff by comparison to other rifles I've fired.

I removed the barrel and action from the stock. First time I've done this, so felt a bit of trepidation, but was surprisingly easy. Anyway, it was clear that the barrel was clear of the woodwork for most of its length, but there was 2 very clear pressure points - shiny black compressed areas on the woodwork - both at the very tip of the fore end, one in the bottom of the channel and one on one side. I relieved those using sandpaper around a dowel, and also lightly eased a couple of other spots where the action itself appeared to be nipped by the woodwork. Gave everything a good clean up, and re-assembled.

Not tried any shots yet, but will let you know how it goes. If there's no change then I think the next thing is to find someone who's a much better shot than me and ask them to have a go, to eliminate my shooting errors from the equation.

Any more advice gratefully received.
 
well done so far did you take the bipod off like someone mentioned and use bags or a rifle vice/stand , oh and dont forget to seal the wood were youve sanded so it doesnt get water in and swells,atb doug keep us informed,
 
Hi mate, i am no expert but i had same trouble a few years back with a old bsa monarch same caliber, and i think it could just be all the dirt and grime built up over the years, i reckon if you done what was mentioned earlier by taken the stock off and give it a good clean and sand i think your troubles are maybe over hope so anyway.
Reagrds Neil
 
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