inconsistent 308

pj1

Well-Known Member
hi all.

i have been out this morning trying some home loads. i can get 1 inch to 1.5 inch three shot groups at 100 yards. next three shot group was more like four inches. can then go back to 1 inch then 2 - 3 inch.

some info

parker hale 1100lwt 308
pecar hale 6 x 45
rws brass
cci primer
44 gn of vit 150
165 gn sierra game king

i would like to sight in inch high at 100 yards but am struggling to find a target thats clear at that distance. the scope is really clear but the target looks very small and its difficult to pin point where to aim.

any ideas welcome

regards pete
 
Pete

If you PM me an e-mail address, I can send you some Excel based targets like the attached with was shot with 6 x 42 scope.

Regards

JCS
 
Have you tried the targets that are downloadable from the home page of the Stalking Directory?

Are you allowing time for the barrel to cool off after three rounds have been fired?
 
thank you. i tried a couple of targets this morning. one very much like the above. centre triangle is 2 inches outer 4 inch. and one with an inch clear centre circle and black squares at 2 4 7 and 10 o clock. the triangular one was easiest to use. especially when aiming between the points of the triangles. but it all seems to much like guess work. its an old rifle and scope with a pretty thick reticle and i dont expect clover leaf groups but consistent groups i would like. i am willing to be told to practice more but just wonder if im missing something
 
i tried allowing the barrel and mod to cool. had my daughter hammering a target with a 22 then went back to the 308. second to last 3 shot group was awful. went straight to the last three shots with a warm barrel and mod and grouped 1.5 inch.

should i try some factory ammo to see if its my home loads.

i have now run out of powder and am low on heads so am also wondering about using 150 gn instead of 160s. do you guys think 15 gns would make that much differance
 
Have you had the rifle a long time? If so, how did it shoot with factory ammo before you decided to reload. There is certainly nothing wrong with Parker Hales - most of us er....mature shooters have probably had one/still have one, but having said that, like everything mechanical they can wear out and niggly things like the wood starting to jar against the barrel.

Regarding 150 gr heads, I have just developed a friends 308 using 150 gr Nosler Accubonds and Varget and it does shoot beautifully.
 
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There are a couple of things you can check.

Are the screws holding the action to stock tightened properly?

Are the scope and base mounts correctly tightened?

Can you slide a sheet of folded paper between the barrel and fore end stock all the way to the front of the receiver/action both when cold and especially after the rifle has been fired?
If not, check where any interference is.

Are you interfering with the barrel by having a finger, thumb or rest touching it when you shoot? (Think of the barrel as a tuning fork – it needs to vibrate the same every time)

Are you holding the rifle and looking through the scope the same way every time?
(Heat from the barrel particularly on a sunny warm day will generate a haze in front of the scope. Unhelpful when lining up on a small target)

Does the bolt close down on your loaded round the same way each time?

The list of things to check can go on but if the above seems fine then you probably need to look at the ammunition you make and how much care you take over brass prep. and your consistency over bullet seating etc.
ATB
 
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Thanks for all the replies so far. I have had the rifle for about 4 years but probably only get through 50 rounds a year tops. It was ok with factory ammo but groups orginally improved with home loads. This last batch of ammo i am using once fired rws brass. (Fired in different rifle). They do seem more difficult to feed and close the bolt. But no marks on the bullet from the rifling and no signs of pressure.
I have had the action from the stock to adjsut the trigger which is now much better. It has not got a floating barrel and was made that way. From previous threads where people have tried to float these rifles and made things worse i wont be doing that.
I shoot off of a bag not bipod and make sure i dont touch the barrel.
I originally used winchester brass but the necks brass thickness is thin and when loading for then second time some heads just pushed straight into the case.
 
"I originally used winchester brass but the necks brass thickness is thin and when loading for then second time some heads just pushed straight into the case."

That sounds more like a problem with dies not adjusted properly rather than the cases being at fault.

No disrespects to either your shooting or reloading ability but why not try to isolate the problem by starting from a different perspective.
1. Try another experienced shooter using factory ammo or ammo of known quality.
2. Try an experienced shooter using your reloads.
3. Shoot it yourself using ammo of known quality.
4. Shoot it without the moderator.

As it is lightweight barrel shoot only 3 shot groups and allow 5 minutes between groups. All this after thoroughly checking over the rifle and scope as others have mentioned. You might also like to try another scope on it , one that is known not to have any problems and use a target that is actually large enough to see. Don't go adjusting the scope between shots just shoot the same point of aim for each shot. Make sure the barrel is clear of any copper fouling before you start.
 
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Pj1 I had exactly the same problem with exactly the same rifle ph ltw .308 I couldn't get a consistant group and when I did it was usually well over an inch, i went through loads of different factory and loaded ammo they only ones to shoot pretty consistently were sako 123gn.
Had it over to a reputable rifle smith he checked everything lightened the trigger but found rough tooling marks with the bore scope an a section of the rifling edge for about 1/2 " was slightly damaged but it was well down the barrel and he reckoned it had been like that since it had been made.
In the end I got ****ed off with it swapped it in for a sako 75 .308 which shot everything I put in it under an inch and a lot less when loaded with 150sst's
 
"I originally used winchester brass but the necks brass thickness is thin and when loading for then second time some heads just pushed straight into the case."

That sounds more like a problem with dies not adjusted properly rather than the cases being at fault.

Ok i use a lee loader so no adjsutment there only on seating depth.
 
Ok i use a lee loader so no adjsutment there only on seating depth.

If that case then that's the problem with the system that you are using because the die didn't actually resize the neck as it should have.
 
Thanks double four. I went from a 243 to the 308 as i wanted something a good bit heavier so didnt really want to go down to the sako 123 gn. I know brithunter had the same rifle and found 123 gn heads accurate.
I hope to get a. 22 hornet in the summer so that should give me plenty of practice at longer ranges.

Looks like i might have to get a proper press and die set then.
 
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Have you tried the targets that are downloadable from the home page of the Stalking Directory?

Are you allowing time for the barrel to cool off after three rounds have been fired?
I know zilch about home loads but would say your barrels warming up a little too
 
to rule out the homeloads grab a box or two of ppu. (CIRCA £10 FOR 20.)
They group well enough to see if its you, the gun or the ammo.
I actually had the same problem.
It appears it was the barrel getting to warm.
 
I checked the mod is tight between 3 shot groups. Will give the factory loads a go again. I have 12 150 grains kicking about so should get some idea with those. Let the barrel cool well between groups except the last two groups.
 
hi all.

i have been out this morning trying some home loads. i can get 1 inch to 1.5 inch three shot groups at 100 yards. next three shot group was more like four inches. can then go back to 1 inch then 2 - 3 inch.

This sounds more like you than anything else. If you are certain that the loads are similar in everything including neck tension and the screws are tight then it is probably how you are pulling the trigger as even a slight change in trigger snatch can cause big variations down the line. Try the old trick of closing your eyes and seeing if you remain on target. You could be under tension which will pull you off. I often use a set trigger when sighting in to stop this, once sighted in I then practice controlled release of the trigger until I get the grouping as with the set trigger. I also accept I have bad days and will give up at the range if it's not working. Happened to me recently when I had been up early then went to the range after a strong coffee. Shot like the proverbial. Does nothing for your confidence having a bad day.

For targets go to mytargets.com they have some varmint targets which are excellent for setting one inch up. The bull is red and the inch above green which makes seeing where the shot has gone easy.

Hope this his helps and good luck

BE
 
Thanks for that big ears. I also find it really knocks your confidance. I can shoot mice in my garden with the air rifle but moving to a 100 yard target seems an awful long way away.
 
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