Itis clear that the screws have to be tightened to a certain torque (about 60 Nm,i.e. 80 ft lbs). What is the proper tightening sequence i.e. which screw has tobe tightened first: front or rear, and why?
Torquing is only an issue if you want to take your rifle apart and put it back together with the least amount of zero shift possible. For years benchrest guys used a flat-blade screw driver. I think trying to be consistant in how you reassemble is atleast as importnat as the tension you put on the screws. After installing the triggerguard assembly in the stock I drop in the action/barrel. I then stand the rifle on the butt and install the screws loosely. This get the recoil lug into contact with the should in the stock. The screws are then tightened to the point that the action is held in proper position but there is no real tension applied. The front screw is then tightened to the correct tension and then the rear. Personally I used a fixed tension torque wrench that is offered by Seekonk. These can be ordered for various amounts of tension. I normally pillar bed my rifles with steel or aluminum and have found 55in/lb works pretty good for both the action screws and the Leupold Mark4 scope rings.
WARNING - Make sure you get an inch/pound torque wrench, using a foot/pound unit will cause grief!!!
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