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Thread: sako brass

  1. #1

    sako brass

    What do people think of sako brass for reloading?

  2. #2
    its good brass but diffficult to get hold off unless you have once fired
    Official Sponsor to Team GB F Class

  3. #3
    Cheers spuds I have about 100 of them

  4. #4
    I've used Norma brass in .223 and .243 and found it to be excellent.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by berg View Post
    What do people think of sako brass for reloading?
    I've some nine times fired Sako 243 Win brass hiding somewhere in the loft. It worked pretty well for me. Regards JCS

  6. #6
    Sako Brass works fine for my .243 as well

    Jimmy

  7. #7
    There is an old belief that Sako brass was a bit soft and that uneven neck thicknesses resulting in necks stretching on one side more than the other and exacerbating the thickness issue.

    However, I think this particular 'myth' needs consigning to history now as I have been reloading Sako 222 brass that I have had for about 12 years and there is no evidence of this in the cases I have.

    Like any good quality brass, treat it correctly and it will serve you well.

    All mine was originally factory loaded ammo and once fired has been neck sized with the correct size bushing die to give me 2 thou of neck tension with whatever case/bullet combination I am using. This means you are not over working the brass (which will work harden it and in cases like 222 lead to premature splitting of the case necks) and means no messy case lube either!

    Oh, and before anyone says it - no I do not neck crimp and neither do any of the bench rest or F class shooters I know - "go figure!"

    When the cases get a little tight to chamber I anneal the necks and then full length size them before reverting back to neck sizing until the next time they get a little tight.

    I run some ancient Norma cases for practice and club level competition and then have Sako and Lapua cases for serious competition! (I also use Lapua brass in all my deer stalking loads but that is only because I bought a big bag of it for 5/100 about 20 years ago).
    Last edited by Donkey Basher; 22-08-2014 at 10:39.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey Basher View Post
    There is an old belief that Sako brass was a bit soft and that uneven neck thicknesses resulting in necks stretching on one side more than the other and exacerbating the thickness issue.

    However, I think this particular 'myth' needs consigning to history now as I have been reloading Sako 222 brass that I have had for about 12 years and there is no evidence of this in the cases I have.

    Like any good quality brass, treat it correctly and it will serve you well.

    All mine was originally factory loaded ammo and once fired has been neck sized with the correct size bushing die to give me 2 thou of neck tension with whatever case/bullet combination I am using. This means you are not over working the brass (which will work harden it and in cases like 222 lead to premature splitting of the case necks) and means no messy case lube either!

    Oh, and before anyone says it - no I do not neck crimp and neither do any of the bench rest or F class shooters I know - "go figure!"

    When the cases get a little tight to chamber I anneal the necks and then full length size them before reverting back to neck sizing until the next time they get a little tight.

    I run some ancient Norma cases for practice and club level competition and then have Sako and Lapua cases for serious competition! (I also use Lapua brass in all my deer stalking loads but that is only because I bought a big bag of it for 5/100 about 20 years ago).
    Hahaha! Good man. Bet we get some "advice" on that now tho'. :-)

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