Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: Sako M591 .308 stock and barrel touching please help

  1. #1

    Sako M591 .308 stock and barrel touching please help

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	119 
Size:	332.1 KB 
ID:	47260Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	109 
Size:	416.5 KB 
ID:	47258Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	96 
Size:	287.3 KB 
ID:	47261Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	101 
Size:	292.1 KB 
ID:	47256Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	109 
Size:	325.8 KB 
ID:	47257Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	101 
Size:	197.1 KB 
ID:	47259Ive picked up a very little used sako M591 .308 it was the condition that attracted me

    The story was it was baught by a very wealthy gentleman who basically never really used it

    so had a good get to know it tonight and ive found that the very end piece of the stock is touching the barrel but the rest down to the receiver is free floating and i can easily get a note to slide up and down the gap between barrel and stock obviously except the very end tip
    the channel in the wood is all smooth to the tip so im thinking its just warped and took up the gap but i thaught i would ask you guys more supperier knowledge on what to do befoure i sand it down to relieve it so to speak


    also i noticed its got ally pillers in the stock that the action screws pass thru is this normal on this age of rifle
    Last edited by Markfox; 24-09-2014 at 18:05.

  2. #2
    Have you shot it yet?

    bit like ripping the engine out of a car before starting it and driving it if you try and fix something that is not an issue

    i have several rifles that are not free floating
    all shoot well

    there are issues with some rifles being free floated after the event and proving worse as a result

    pillars I can't answer but I would be surprised if that was factory unless just pressed in
    i also have a late 70's Parker hale that has "roll pin" style pillars, but they are not bedded in

    post some pics if concerned

  3. #3

  4. #4
    The pillars are not standard, and it should be free floating, so you may need to sand it a touch.
    Sako TRG-42 folder .338LM🔫 Sako TRG-22 .308/.260🔫 Tikka 595 .222(NV'd up) 🔫 AR15 .223/300BLK 🔫Franchi 12g 520 9shot🔫Baikal .410 stealth🔫Ruger #1.243

    Home | Varminting UK

  5. #5
    SD Regular bobjs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Tidworth/on here/or at Downton Abbey.
    Posts
    8,832
    Blog Entries
    5
    View my Gallery (39)View my Gallery (39)
    Hi mark

    you can use a chalk to find out just where the barrel is touching the stock.

    i had the same problem with my old 590 and as i have seen in your photos its the same spot.

    if you use the chalk on the barrel and then place it back in the stock it will leave a trace of where you have it touching, sand it away slowly and repeat the action until you have a fully even and clear channel around that area,

    please always tighten the rear action screw down first and then the front, and try and tighten them to the same to help eliminate errors.

    once you have completed the work remember to seal the wood that you have sanded and a bit each side or it will swell when it gets wet,

    nice rifle by the way

    bob.
    WARNING: LUPUS IS A KILLER, lets support them in the need to find out what it is, what causes it and how do we defeat it. Donating to LUPUS UK | LUPUS UK

    Living with Lupus - YouTube

  6. #6
    Don't know much about the 591, only did one. I'd bed the rifle before messing around on the stock.
    After bedding and knowing where the barrel will be positioned in the future one can re-work the forend to be well free floated.
    I'd sort it before zeroing.
    edi

  7. #7
    That's not a factory pressure point
    those don't look like factory pillars

    How does it shoot?

  8. #8
    SD Regular bobjs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Tidworth/on here/or at Downton Abbey.
    Posts
    8,832
    Blog Entries
    5
    View my Gallery (39)View my Gallery (39)
    Quote Originally Posted by ejg View Post
    Don't know much about the 591, only did one. I'd bed the rifle before messing around on the stock.
    After bedding and knowing where the barrel will be positioned in the future one can re-work the forend to be well free floated.
    I'd sort it before zeroing.
    edi
    Hi Edi

    RE: bedding the action before touching the stock.

    I have had a few 590/595 etc and the platform on the normal stock is a good platform, many of my early rifles were never bedded, bot my semi custom 243 and my first 308 both tikka were not bedded but all had the same problem at a similar point on the forend,

    they all shot well once the wood was removed to give the barrel a free floating area, when i got my first custom stocked rifle it was yet again another 595, and it was bedded, but i shot it with a spare factory stock on it and i have to say it shot just as good.

    now in the last few months i got yet another 595 in 6mmbr and its bedded in a factory stock, when i went to collect another 595 in a factory stock i spoke to the smith who put it all together and he mentioned that the stock on the 591.590/595 has a good platform under the action, so good that he is happy to leave the stock alone and not spend cash on bedding if the rifle shoots well as is.

    so since then i have not worried about it and the new 595 will not be bedded, and to confirm that it shoots well, i shot it alongside my other 595 in a bedded stock and the difference is to my eye not worth bothering with,

    Mark

    RE: the pillars, you are correct they are not factory but aftermarket (done to the stock after it was purchased) if they have been done well, and it looks good to me then i would try the rifle as it is first and see how it shoots,if you have zeroing issues it may well prove to be the stock effecting barrel harmonics and that area may need to be dealt with.

    i hope it all pans out well and keep us posted please.

    regards

    bob.
    WARNING: LUPUS IS A KILLER, lets support them in the need to find out what it is, what causes it and how do we defeat it. Donating to LUPUS UK | LUPUS UK

    Living with Lupus - YouTube

  9. #9
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Lancs / Cumbria Border
    Posts
    1,805
    Id reassemble it and shoot a test group.

    See how it does.

    The rifle isn't standard, the pillars have been added and forend opened up.

    Though I cannot understand why the person who did the work, did not make the barrel free floating and bed the action properly, making a new recoil lug (throwing away the L shaped standard lug)

    The rifle may shoot - its rare that Tikka's don't.

    But if it were me, I would check if the pillars are the correct length - touching the action - if they're not, that needs sorting. (machining out and starting again)

    The barrel channel needs deepening slightly and stock resealing - allowing free float.

    I would also machine a new recoil lug and then bed this into the stock with Devcon making a total stress free base for the action.

    The rifle looks to have had little use.

    Though its hard to tell for certain without examination

  10. #10
    Redmist, I think you put up a picture a while back of the Bedding insert you made instead of the L shaped piece. I copied your idea on a stock that I fitted to one of these rifles. worked perfect.

    Bobjs, if you loosen the action screws somewhat, can you move the front of the barrel a fraction? If so the bedding will help. If it doesn't move it might move when the stock is dryer or wetter... after all it's wood. Generally I find hunters with wooden stocks prefer a small barrel stock gap meaning assuring where the barrel will be as one achieves via bedding, is an advantage...until the forend warps
    Either way proper bedding is an advantage. One often doesn't notice accuracy improvement in one session off the bench after bedding however over a longer time period one notices less zero wander.

    I mentioned bedding before opening the barrel channel as one can centre the bedding using the existing tight barrel channel. Then open up the barrel channel to desired clearance.
    edi
    Last edited by ejg; 25-09-2014 at 21:13.

Similar Threads

  1. For Sale Sako M591 .308 and Tikka M695 .6.5x55 for sale.
    By Suffolk stalker in forum Firearms
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 24-06-2013, 22:03
  2. *SOLD* SAKO M591 Varmint .308
    By The tramp in forum Firearms
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 30-01-2013, 17:49
  3. Wanted Synthetic stock for SAKO M591
    By FlyBoy270 in forum Firearms Components
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-06-2012, 11:39
  4. For Sale Sako M591 22.250 heavy barrel
    By sleekitfox in forum Firearms
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 15-12-2011, 23:20
  5. Wanted Sako M591 L/H stock
    By Roecall in forum Firearms Components
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-09-2011, 16:23

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •