Leupold vx -3L 4.5 -14x50 some stupid questions please help!!!!

Bladerunner

Well-Known Member
Hi guys

Some stupid questions regarding these scopes, firstly I'm new to stalking and have yet to purchase my first rifle. I'm looking at a tikka T3 6.5x55 and I'm really keen on this style of scope as all of the estate rifles I've borrow I've found that I'm stretching to look down the scope in everything but prone. So I'm keen to know

Do you special rings and bases for these scopes?? Optilock will the low set be to low?

Will having a really low scope make prone shots difficult?

If I have a large (wide) Mod will I end up blocking some of the picture??

Would love to here from any that has a vx -3L on a tikka, to see how they got on with it??

Thanks in advance, I always get a lot of help on here, I think its easier to ask these questions in a forum I always feel a bit silly in the gun rooms.
 
I don't quite understand why you think this particular scope will assist in your stretching - the estate rifle will have been set up for the person who uses them most - your personal rifle will be set up such that the eye relief is specific to you - so no more stretching forward to get a good picture. In terms of cheek weld, (the vertical stretch) this can be managed with smaller objectives and appropriate mounts and a cheekpiece to make you feel comfortable getting the correct sight picture easily.

As to your questions:


Rings tend to be specific to the rifle, not the scope. Optilock lows would I am sure be fine, but it does depend on the exact T3 model - and your eye relief requirements.

Height of scope should not have any impact on the style of shot - see previous comments on cheek weld. Height of bipod has a far bigger impact here.

On mod - maybe - particularly on low mag - but it should not affect you to the extent of being unworkable.


The key is in setting the rifle up for you - plenty on here I am sure who would be able to help with the physical aspect of this.

Hope this helps
 
I don't quite understand why you think this particular scope will assist in your stretching - the estate rifle will have been set up for the person who uses them most - your personal rifle will be set up such that the eye relief is specific to you - so no more stretching forward to get a good picture. In terms of cheek weld, (the vertical stretch) this can be managed with smaller objectives and appropriate mounts and a cheekpiece

HI Eric, thanks for your reply. I'm quite a small bloke, and when I referred to stretching I did mean my neck, I found it difficult regardless of eye relief to get in to a position where I can comfortably keep the stock mounted in my shoulder, have a positive cheek weld, and see down the scope, given that I've try a few other rifles and have always found the same issue, I'm looking at low mounted scopes for my new rifle, and obviously these are a compromise between objective lens size and low mounting. I have used a few rifles that had x56 objective lens and they were great really crisp image, but when normally mounted wouldn't work for me..... am I just trying to have my cake and eat it?? would a x40 do the job? and mount better?
 
HI Eric, thanks for your reply. I'm quite a small bloke, and when I referred to stretching I did mean my neck, I found it difficult regardless of eye relief to get in to a position where I can comfortably keep the stock mounted in my shoulder, have a positive cheek weld, and see down the scope, given that I've try a few other rifles and have always found the same issue, I'm looking at low mounted scopes for my new rifle, and obviously these are a compromise between objective lens size and low mounting. I have used a few rifles that had x56 objective lens and they were great really crisp image, but when normally mounted wouldn't work for me..... am I just trying to have my cake and eat it?? would a x40 do the job? and mount better?

The 'necessary' size of an objective lens is one of those things that sparks debate - much like calibre! If you are hellbent on mounting as low as possible to the bore, then sure, low rings, smaller objective and 25mm tube scope.
I am not convinced that you will get your eye that much lower with a small objective or the VX3-L - but this is personal preference and if it makes you more confident, go for it. I would be choosing a scope with a really good eyebox and eye relief that I can position (laterally) to suit me, mount it as close to the bore as I can, and use a good cheekpiece just to raise my eye into the perfect height position for the LoP of the rifle and the eye relief of the scope. I would not be limiting myself to certain types of scope - because it's only one of the factors in fitting a rifle. Maybe you need a shorter LoP on the rifle - another consideration perhaps.

All my rifles have cheekpieces so I can make it fit me as best it can.
 
I love the Tikka T3, just bought another one, but if you are short, and the length of pull is not fitting you, try shooting something like a Steyr Pro Hunter, which is a bit heavier, but has spacer plates in the butt to shorten the length to about 12.25 inches, IIRC, or to add more for a really tall person.

Or get the Tikka T3 Hunter in a wood stock and have a smith cut it down to fit you with the recoil pad of your choice ( don't need much for a 6.5x55).

The scope:

Don't know what terrain you plan to hunt, but consider that could change. Fitting a Picatinny rail to receiver would let you change from high power scope to a low power one. 100 yards and under, 4x gets to be too much. In the woods, at 40 yards or something close, you want field of view, like 1.5x or 2x. I am topping my T3 7mm-08 with a Burris Fullfield E1 2-7x35. The Zeiss Terra in 2-7x is super clear, bright and less expensive than the Leuopold.
 
Im assuming the VX 3L your referring too is the one with the cutout in the objective lens if it is then you can obviously mount it lower than a conventional 50mm scope which isn't such a bad thing whether the extra lows for the tikka will be low enough I don't now but you will benefit from it you could maybe mount it lower with third eye mounts


as for the tolerance with the sight picture I find there's not a lot of tolerance with leupold

whereas my Z6i is a lot better and a lot les fussy but it's not a problem really as you get used to different scopes
 
no, the cut out one is the 56mm Obj model

Leupold are good scopes, I know this first hand as I have at one point or another had Vx1, 2, and 3 models

That said, try before you buy
The have fussy eye relief, especially the higher mag models
and as eye relief is a product of good cheek weld and shooting position it is not something that can be relied upon with a new rifle and a new shooter (novice I mean)

personally i would go for a decent quality fixed scope for a first rifle
you will learn to shoot better and not be p1ssing around with zoom and parallax when you should be focusing on breathing/trigger control and getting a decent position.

a 6x44 or a Meopta 7x50 will give you a better (i.e. smaller) eyeline to bore figure
I use the Meopta as a specific example as it has a longer tube and tends to allow mounting closer to the barrel than other 50's

If cheek weld is an issue take your rifle and scope choice into an RFD with a good selection of mounts and get some that fit you and the rifle
or get a slip over neoprene cheek piece to see if that helps

Personally I am upset if I can see daylight between scope and barrel without having to hold it at eye line!
You should be able to mount a rifle with your eyes closed and have a perfect view without shuffling around when you open them
 
The crawling problem you are having may be due to the stock length of pull being too long, as much as it is with the scope. Go try a youth stock on something like a Remington Model 7 or Steyr PH with the spacers removed.

Fit the scope for you. Don't worry about it being "too high" if it matches up to your natural mounting and cheek weld.

You are being sensible on getting an accurate yeoman's rifle, rather than an expensive one. Do the same with the scope. As bewscher500 and others advise, keep it simple, like a 6x42, and look for a good used one. Better to find out what works for you on a rig that costs less, and just get used to one sight picture without zooming, focusing, turning knobs.
 
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