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Thread: Anyone fitted sling studs to Savage 24 combi gun?

  1. #1

    Anyone fitted sling studs to Savage 24 combi gun?

    I want to get a sling on the combi gun I bought but am not sure whether to drill studs in the stock and fore end or get a barrel clamp for the front like the ones in this link.

    Shotgun Barrel Split Band QD Swivel Bases

    Any thoughts or anyone done it before as I'm not sure the spacing will be far enough apart drilled intot the wood each end,

    Stratts
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  2. #2
    I got a leather covered metal hand guard for a sbs and spot welded a stud from the rear to take a sling
    havent got round to doing the stock end yet but there are a few removable ones if you don't want
    to put a stud into it

  3. #3
    If you don't want to start drilling or spot welding swivels onto your gun, perhaps you could look at one of these removable slings, that are designed to fit on guns without them. Obviously they're just for carrying and need to be removed in use.
    https://www.google.fr/search?q=brete...ed=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

  4. #4
    I don't mind drilling the stock, I was more concerned about the clamp doing lasting damage to the barrel if I needed to fit one to get the correct distance between swivels as the ones I looked at don't need welding
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  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by stratts View Post
    I don't mind drilling the stock, I was more concerned about the clamp doing lasting damage to the barrel if I needed to fit one to get the correct distance between swivels as the ones I looked at don't need welding
    They won't. I've mounted dozens of them. Just don't go too crazy on the tension screw. Two small strips of electrical tape on the inside of the barrel clamp halves will add to to the adhesion.~Muir

  6. #6
    As above , I've mounted more of these than I can remember , including on my Savage 24 , and never had a problem . I mounted one on my Ruger No 3 and used a small amount of two part epoxy on the clamp faces , probably over-kill , but in 45/70 it generates a lot of recoil . I've done the same thing on a Remington 870 slug gun , when I sold it , I took the clamp off and easily removed the thin layer of epoxy . You couldn't tell it was even on the barrel . On your Savage , just use Muirs method and it'll work just fine .

    AB

  7. #7
    Thanks guys I've only just caught up with your replies after measuring the gaps on my other rifles between studs I have the same distance to drill the wood. Have ordered studs so will go careful and fit them this week sometime.

    Stratts
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  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by stratts View Post
    Thanks guys I've only just caught up with your replies after measuring the gaps on my other rifles between studs I have the same distance to drill the wood. Have ordered studs so will go careful and fit them this week sometime.

    Stratts
    Can you un-order them?
    There is one draw back to putting studs into the foreend of a Model 24 and that is that the foreend detaches from the barrel/reciever assembly with a tug. (On most models I've handled, tho it has been a while...) just like double barreled shotgun. The sling adds a bit of leverage to the foreend and if you catch it, or sling it too vigorously, the foreend can pop off and the barrel ends up in the muck while you polish the dust off of your best curse words.

    The barrel band is the one you need.~Muir

  9. #9
    Ah I assume this is the same but the fore end has a screw through it which secures it in place. Maybe this was an after thought or just a different version, hence me thinking it would be ok to fit a screw in stud. They didn't cost much so I could still use the rear one and just buy a barrel band on its own if that reall is the best bet,

    Stratts
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