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Thread: Reloading for a Blaser

  1. #1

    Reloading for a Blaser

    Morning all,

    can anyone please enlighten me as to reloading for a straight pull Blaser.

    Ive heard you have to always full length resize but can't see why? Thoughts please and could we please stick to the question.

    Thanks

    Paul

  2. #2
    Didn't keep mine long, but after hearing the same as you I just had to try neck sizing.
    Worked fine for me in .243, no problems chambering or ejecting.

    Neil.

  3. #3
    I just neck size for my blaser r93 and its been fine, its 243 and ive been using 40gr h380 with 80gr nosler bt's and there a shooting brilliant. I'm pretty new to re loading so interested to hear why they should be full lengthed?

  4. #4
    This topic has been covered in quite a few earlier threads, for some technical reason (I've long since forgotten) peculiar to the Blaser neck sizing doesn't give the same benefits as it does to a conventional B/A.

    The reason why I F/L size is that Blasers appear to be more prone to misfiring due to the bolt not being fully closed with neck sized reloads. Caorach on SD seems to neck size ok for his Blaser though.

    atb Tim

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by timbrayford View Post
    This topic has been covered in quite a few earlier threads, for some technical reason (I've long since forgotten) peculiar to the Blaser neck sizing doesn't give the same benefits as it does to a conventional B/A.
    It has indeed, see Re-Loading for a Blaser R93 [Archive] - The Stalking Directory

    I F/L size for my .308, though it's just out of habit now.

    The only rounds I've had problems with are Brazilian military FMJ, which occasionally jam.
    O wad some Power the giftie gie us to see oursels as ithers see us!

  6. #6
    I don't own a Blaser but I have owned a lot of non-bolt guns and if they don't have a bolt that cams the cartridge into the chamber, I FL resize. It's pretty much standard practice with single shots, straight pulls, autos and lever guns.

    You won't gain much neck sizing anyhow. If you read Lyman's new 49th reloading manual they indicate that they don't recommend neck sizing any more and promote FL resizing for all loads. I forgot how they worded it exactly, but basically said that the benefits of FL resizing outweighed those of neck sizing. I know that accuracy doesn't suffer. I FL resize all my target and hunting loads these days and accuracy is superb and consistent.~Muir

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Muir View Post
    I don't own a Blaser but I have owned a lot of non-bolt guns and if they don't have a bolt that cams the cartridge into the chamber, I FL resize. It's pretty much standard practice with single shots, straight pulls, autos and lever guns.

    You won't gain much neck sizing anyhow. If you read Lyman's new 49th reloading manual they indicate that they don't recommend neck sizing any more and promote FL resizing for all loads. I forgot how they worded it exactly, but basically said that the benefits of FL resizing outweighed those of neck sizing. I know that accuracy doesn't suffer. I FL resize all my target and hunting loads these days and accuracy is superb and consistent.~Muir
    However it's worded I also believe F/L resizing is the way forward. Having done both over many years, I'm sure if one determines the true headspace dimension correctly and sets their full length die to produce +/- .001" of that dimension, with all other things equal relative to the brass i.e. age/times fired/anneald etc etc being used, you will make your reloaded ammunition workable & as good as it gets. Especially if you finish it off with a 'factory crimp'. ATB
    Blaser K95 Luxus Kipplaufbüchse .25-06Rem. Zeiss 8x56, 110gn Nosler Accubond = Game Over!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by deer man View Post
    can anyone please enlighten me as to reloading for a straight pull Blaser.

    Ive heard you have to always full length resize but can't see why? Thoughts please and could we please stick to the question.
    There was a great truth that went about on the internet which informed us all that because of the design of a Blaser it was necessary to full length size because the "action" couldn't extract neck sized cases, or something along those lines any how. The same people also assured me that the moon was made of cheese.

    I shoot a Blaser in 308Win and have probably put 2000+ rounds through it. Way back at the start I did full length size but wasn't long before I switched to neck sizing with a Lee collet die. I'm still using approx 80 of the 100 Lapua cases I bought back when I got the rifle. Now I don't count loadings etc. so some have had a lot more use than others but even so most of those cases must have 15+ loadings on them and I would guess there are some that have 15 loadings on them since they were last full length sized. My loads are mostly for 150 grain bullets and MVs range between 2400fps for "plinking" loads to a genuine 3000fps for my full on loads.

    Recently I acquired some new Lapua cases and instead of messing about I literally took a few of them out of the box put a primer, power and a bullet in them and used them. I'd guess some of these "new" cases must be on their 4th or 5th load and they've never seen a full length die, I'm using them on deer and have seen no problems.

    I'm pretty certain the moon isn't made of cheese either.
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  9. #9
    I allways full length resize all of my brass

  10. #10
    When I got my R93 in .243 I tried neck sizing and about 30% would not fire, but could be made to fire by slaming bolt if not once a couple of times, but no problems with fl sized brass. I always fl sized after that experiment and could quietly close the bolt and never got a missfire since.


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