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Thread: Any plumbers on SD I have a heating & water issue - They've stopped working!

  1. #1

    Any plumbers on SD I have a heating & water issue - They've stopped working!

    Quick brief - Hot water and central heating won't send a signal to the boiler to turn it on!! The pump runs and the controller lights are on but the boiler won't ignite. Have had a new controller in the airing cupboard and circuit board in the boiler fairly recently.

    Can a faulty actuator stop the signals being sent to the boiler? For a while the pump over-run hasn't stopped after they've been turned off so I've had to turn it off at the mains but today it's stopped working altogether,

    Cheers

    Stratts
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  2. #2
    Is it frozen with you there? We had similar in cold weather when the condensation outlet pipe froze solid, stopped the boiler all together, chap came out, asked me to boil the kettle, poured it over pipe, problem solved..?
    Opinions are like arseholes....... we all have them, and most of them stink

  3. #3
    many combi boilers will fail to start if internal pressure falls below .4 bar, this is easily rectified by refilling to recommended pressure with filling loop.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by rick6point5 View Post
    many combi boilers will fail to start if internal pressure falls below .4 bar, this is easily rectified by refilling to recommended pressure with filling loop.
    if fitted with a pressure vessel it wont drop below its factory pre-set pressure, meaning it should always be at least .4/5 bar, that is unless the pressure vessel has a hole or has perished its diaphragm. In which case it wont hold pressure, then over-pressure and bliw out of the expansion.

    is the boiler on lock-out, more importantly what sort of boiler is it, and whats your system design ie combi (no hot/cold water tanks or gravity fed (with tanks)?!

    t

  5. #5
    If all fails breakout a onesie.

    K
    The enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge.

  6. #6
    I would suggest you look for the zone valve /3port diverter valve some call them they are prone to getting stiff and burning the motor out then block all signals to the boiler they can be operated manually which may free up things and allow your boiler to restart.
    you can change the motor head only (but I find they burn motors out regulary) it mean draining the system to replace the whole thing but I think its worthwhile.

    45 years in building trades. actually doing one tomorrow.
    Last edited by roedeerred; 04-01-2015 at 21:21. Reason: after thought.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Klenchblaize View Post
    If all fails breakout a onesie.

    K
    I don't need boiler failure to break out the onesie!! Mrs Stratts starts a new job tmoro morning she wanted a nice relaxing bath and get her head right, instead she's driven to my parents for a shower and got the hump, lol!!

    It's not a combi and yes it's been freezing but I doubt that's the issue as we've had it a lot colder without problems. It's not been right for a while and in true man fashion I've left it alone!!
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  8. #8
    I think that's what I'm calling the actuator (made by drayton) but I don't know how to override it or operate it manually, any ideas?
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  9. #9
    is it the drayton with a white/grey cover look on the side for safety catch like lever move it to mid position then wait a minute see if boiler starts

  10. #10
    usually a small lever through the side casing , should be able to move it across and press up or down to latch it open

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