Making the .50 Alaskan

I'm not familiar with the laws in the British Isles regarding "wildcatting", so there may be little interest in this thread even in the general context of making custom cartridges.

I thought I might cover a general topic - "So you wanna wildcat do ya?" - with a specific example - the .50 Alaskan. Below you will find the steps I use to make my .50 Alaskan ammo starting with .348 Winchester cases and cast bullets. The processes, in general, are applicable to any cartridge, be it wildcat or obsolete, that one would like to make starting with another case.

The first photo is of the .348 Win case marked to length, trimmed to length, and the resulting .50 case.
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The second photo shows trimming the .348 case to length. I removed the shaft from a manual case trimmer and chucked it in a 1/2" power auger. There's lotsa metal to remove to get the case to proper length.
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The next step is to remove the burrs - both inside and out - caused by trimming the case.
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Since this case is going to get blown out essentially straight, the shoulder and neck get annealed first to soften them up as much as possible. I hold the case between my index finger and thumb while I am annealing. When the case gets too hot to hold onto, I drop it. I used to drop it in water, but it seems to me that that might just harden it a bit. I've been told by an internet metalurgist that brass does not "temper quench" like iron/steel does. Still... I'm certain it doesn't harden with air cooling.
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Here's what the annealed case looks like.
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After I have annealed all of the cases I intend to fireform, I charge them. You can see the components in this image. They are: About 15 grains of Bullseye; enough Cream of Wheat to fill the case about half way up the neck; and some paper towel for wadding. I put a piece of paper towel between the powder and the CoW just so there is no chance for the powder to get mixed with the CoW. Once the CoW is added, I put a wad of paper towel on top and tamp it down just so the CoW doesn't pour out the case mouth.
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Here are the powder-charged cases:
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Here are the CoW-charged cases:
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And here are the cases ready to be fire-formed:
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Here are the cases immediately after fire-forming. So far I've done this with 100 cases. Only one has split, and that one wasn't annealed. I fire-formed 40 cases before I started annealing, and only one split. Still, annealing is too easy to do, and even if it only saves 1% of the cases, it's still worth it to me.
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After fire-forming, the mouths are very uneven and need to be filed square. I tried to use the case trimmer, Brithunter even made a custom pilot for me. However, the cutter is just too small for the fire-formed case mouth. Filing isn't too tedious - at least not to me.
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After squaring the mouth, I remove the burr inside and out and chamfer.
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Next, I like to polish the cases. On one hand it's purely cosmetic. On the other hand, I can see any flaws better on a polished case. I polish the cases by using something wooden lathe turners will be familiar with - a jam chuck. I make the jam chick from an 8mm Mag case. The .50 case gets jammed on the 8mm case and spun. I use an artificial abrassive pad that is fine enough that it just polishes. Here is the polishing process in pictures:
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Now that the case is made, it's time to make the bullets. I'll spare you the casting process, and start out with the cast bullets in hand. These are bullets dropped from Lee's 450'grain mould. With my alloy, they turn out 439 grains.
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Notice that they have no gas-check heel. Try as I might, I have been unable to get un-gas-checked bullets to leave no lead in my bore. Put another way, bullets without gas-checks SERIOUSLY lead the bore of my rifle. I'm sure some casting guru could make an alloy that wouldn't lead, but I am simply not capable of doing so. So, I need to put a gas check heel on these bullets. Another fellow from The Hunter's Life came to my aid. Drinksgin made a little lathe for cutting gas checks in non-gas-checked bullets. (Don is quite a 'fixer'.)
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Here is the lathe in operation:
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Here is the result with gas check along side:
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And here is the finished product.
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Now it's time to lube the bullet. Again a THL member comes to my aid. Jay Edwards gave me some of his special lube to use in addition to the gas check, to try and alleviate the leading problem. Here are the GC'd bullets sitting in the melted lube.
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Here they have cooled, and along side is a removal die I made by fire-forming a 7.62x54R case to the .50 Alaskan chamber. (It didn't blow the head out enough to use as a suitable case for making .50 Alaskan cases.)
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The next two pictures show the die in place and the bullet in the die after removal from the lube.
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These are the lubed bullets.
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And here is a loaded .50 Alaskan cartridge.
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So... if you wanna make your own wildcat, be prepared to spend a little time in 'other' activities. As for me, I enjoy makin' 'em from scratch.

However, there is an easier way. You could simply buy the .50 Alaskan cases at ~$1.00 apiece, and loading them with Barnes' 450-grain .510 Original bullets.

Paul
 
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Thanks, ATB, and I understand the "time" issue.

Here is the story on the rifle that I made to shoot those cartridges:

I got the 1878 Martini Enfield several years ago. It arrived chambered in .22/.30-30 and dressed out in the most garrish of stocks. Having the .17 Remington, I have little practical use for CF .22s. I have nothing against them, I just don't need one, and my attention was headed in the opposite direction of "small".

I was looking for something in a "big" caliber, and a fellow suggested a .50-90 "look-alike", the .50-.348 Winchester. There was a lot to be said for the .50-90, and I decided that was what I wanted this rifle chamber in. However, getting a new barrel put on the old 1878 receiver wasn't something I was particularly comfortable having done. There are no gunsmiths in Alaska that I know that I would trust to perform the work. Plus I'd have to find someone to match the bluing on the receiver. So I muddled around for a bit waiting for something to 'break'. Then, another fellow told me about a fellow in Arizona that rebored barrels, and had in fact rebored a barrel for him. For $285 I could get the Martini rebored to .510, and chambered in .50-90, (AKA .50-.348 Win, AKA .50 Alaskan). I sent it off for reboring. When it came back, I was very pleased with the results. I started making bullets and working up loads.

Hunterbug had invited me down to Colorado to hunt elk with him, and as it turned out, we were drawn for cow elk. The .50 came back from Cut Rifle with little time to work up loads and get it restocked, but I did my best. I didn't have the confidence in the loads that I would have liked to have had, and the stock was the best I could throw together in a couple of days. Still, it went elk hunting. Unfortunately, but not too big a deal, I wasn't able to blood the rifle.

When I returned home from the elk hunt, I set to work getting the rifle into the shape I wanted it in. Since my primary purpose for the rifle was to shoot a bison, and since it was a rifle originally made in 1878, I decided that it should look the part. In other words, it should have a "traditional" look. I wanted an express rear sight, banded front sight, and a sort of traditional stock. New England Custom Guns (via Midway USA) supplied the sights. A "traditional" stock would be more difficult to come by. Jay, again, tells me that he has a pattern for the butt of a Martini. (Whooda thunk it. ;) ) I have a good candidate (nice straight grain, aged 20+ years), piece of walnut. We decided to get them together.

Shortly thereafter, I took my family to Idaho for a little vacation, and on our way there, we visited Jay and his wife. Besides having a grand time, Jay and I cut butt and forearm blanks from my board, and drilled the through-hole in the butt for the bolt. None of which would have been possible without the assistance of Jay. Once back home, I started shaping the blanks into their final form.

What you see below is the almost finished product. The front ramp has to be blued and installed in its final position, one more mounting hole needs to be drilled and tapped for the rear ramp, and the rear sight needs to be regulated. (It has 3 folding and one standing blade, and I intend to regulate them at 50, 100, 200, and 300 yds.)

This is the first rifle stock I have made from "beginning to end". I have finished many stocks that I got from stock-makers with partial inletting and a "starter channel" for the barrel. I've also re-shaped and refinished several stocks for friends and aquaintances. In this case though, I started with a chunk of wood.

I'm partial to "animal parts", and I wanted to incorporate animal parts in the finished product if I could maintain a "respectable" and "traditional" look. I decided to put a Dall sheep horn cap on the forarm. Also, I wanted to put a skeletonized steel buttplate on, but the through-hole for the bolt excluded all of the few of them commercially offered. So... I am making my own. In the interim, I have installed the recoil pad you see. Ultimately, I will install a sheep horn skeletonized buttplate.

The forearm of the origninal .22/.30-30 was jerked from the receiver by the recoil of the .50, so I had to come up with another way to attach the forearm to the receiver. Again Jay has the answer. Use "staples" and pin it to the barrel as is done with muzzle loaders. (Again, whooda thought Jay would come up with a solution from the muzzle loading world?:eek: ) So, the two pins you see in the forearm are through-pins that pass through staples attached to the bottom of the barrel.

Finally, of course I wanted the stock to fit me perfectly, and it does. As I throw the rifle to my shoulder, the sights align perfectly,.. and I do mean perfectly. Elk and bison (and maybe even a moose) beware!

Paul

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PS - "ATB" - I get it - "All the Best". Boy do I feel stoopid...:oops::doh:
 
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Here's a moose I took with this rifle, the hand-made cases mentioned above, and hand-made jacketed bullet. I'll post some info and pictures on fabricating the bullets later.

Paul

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"Don't tell me I can't swage .510" bullets in a reloading press."

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This is the first bullet I made from the swaging die I cut. It's a bit heavy at 550, but that's easily remedied. Dave Corbin, and others, have repeatedly told me that it is not possible to swage bullets larger than about .30 caliber on 'regular' reloading presses. When I pressed for reasons, the 'weather' suddenly got hazy. Continued pressing on my part lead to reasons like, "It takes too much pressure" and "The strokes are too short on reloading presses".

Both those justifications may be true for some kinds of swaging operations, but I was very clear - repeatedly - that my needs were simple. Of course "simple" often doesn't sell hardware. I need neither great force, nor a long stroke to make these bullets. The jacket - the forward part of a 'magnum' cartridge case - is nearly pre-formed, and the core is too, as it is simply the Lee 458 Postell 3R cast bullet. Here's a picture of the starting components.

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On the left is a .338 Win Mag case. Next is the case with the head parted (I use the rear of the case as a jacket too after turning the belt off), and the neck turned off the shoulder. The forward part is what is used for the jacket in these bullets. In the middle is the Lee .458 3R Postell (507-grains from my mould). I simply insert the Postell into the front of the Mag case, and press into the swaging die.

Of course, I haven't shot them yet, but my previous experiments using the case heads as jackets was very promising. I expect these to do at least as well. Consistency will be necessary for good precision shooting, but I think I can get all the consistency I need in final weight by weighing each 'jacket' and core prior to swaging.

I also like the long nose on these bullets. That turns out to be purely serendipity (blind good fortune) as it is the profile of the "reamer" I used. That reamer cost me $21.99 (13.90 for the reamer, 6.10 for shipping, and 1.99 for "handling") off EBay. Custom reamer-making shops either said they couldn't make one, or quoted a price of at least $140 (some MUCH higher). The "reamer" is actually a 1/2" "tree burr".

While the reamer is only 0.500" in maximum diameter, I could mount it in my tool-holder and offset it the necessary 0.010" to ream the ID I wanted. (Actually I reamed it to 0.515" so I could run it through my .510" Lee bullet sizer for an exact final diameter.) Worked like I knew what I was doin'.

Reaming the die is tedious, as the whole surface of the burr is cutting. In order to make the cavity as smooth as possible, I was only able to take 0.020" cut between clearing chips from the cavity and the burr. Since the cavity is 1.5" deep (deep enough to make a 600-grain bullet), that was 75 cuts (1.500"/0.020" = 75).

It wasn't 'easy' to get to this point of actually making bullets, but it wasn't 'hard' either. It just required a hard head.:banghead: Once the burr was found, the process went like this:

1) Thread a 3" piece of 1" diameter steel rod to 7/8-14 to fit a standard reloading die.
2) Drill a 3/16" pilot hole (later to become the hole through which the bullet is removed from the swage) through the threaded billet.
3) Ream to 1" depth with the burr mounted in the tail-stock.
4) Ream (with 1/2" drill) "shank" to 0.5" deep.
5) Install burr in tool-holder - off-set desired amount for exact diameter.
6) "Cut" (as opposed to "ream", as now the burr is only cutting on one side) into full depth of 1.5".
7) Polish.
8) Make a 'ram' that fits in the reloading die ram, for pressing the unswaged components into the swage.

Making the core should be obvious - it's just a cast bullet. Making the jacket is a bit more complicated, but not too big a deal.
1) Chuck the magnum case (.338, 7mm, .300, etc., any 'standard' magnum case) in the lathe with the head out.
2) Turn off belt.
3) Remove and chuck case in lathe with mouth out.
4) Turn off neck.
5) Part case at predetermined length for specific bullet weight.

At that point, it's just a matter of inserting the nose of the core into the 'jacket', applying a little lube to the outside of the jacket, and pressing into the swage. A tap on the nose through the top hole drops the bullet out of the swage. It pops out at about 0.5145" in diameter. I then run it through the Lee sizing die, and Voila`- it's 0.5103".

And it didn't cost me $2000 dollars, which is what it would have cost me (including shipping) to get Corbin's complete set-up. Of course his equipment might very likely make 'better' bullets. However, if these shoot as straight as the seriously clunky ones I made "by hand" before shot, I'll be happy as a clam.

Calculated BC for this bullet is .454 - :D

I spent a few hours working on getting consistent weights, using difference parts of the mag case, and generally getting to know how things work. I'll post some pictures tomorrow of the "good, the bad, and the ugly". I learned a lot in that exercise.

I figured out how to make a good boat-tail, but there were several "uglies" before I got it right. Looks like I can easily keep the BC above .400 if I stay at least 500 grains. If they shoot straight, I'll have an elk and buffalo bullet that should let me shoot as far as I care to - 300 yds and less.

Attached are a couple of pictures of my latest attempts.
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The first order of business was to get the components weighed so that they can be assembled into a specific weight. That involved a lot of trial-and-error. The 560-grainer is bigger than I thought I wanted, but if I can live with, (literally), 3450 ft-lbs at the muzzle, (1675 f/s MV), this bullet will deliver 2000 ft-lbs to 300 yds and drop only about 27" at 300 when sighted in dead on at 190 (+6" at 100). That's a thumper for sure. Unfortunately, it 'thumps' at my end too. My current 500-grain load produces about 3216 ft-lbs at the muzzle.

The 500-grainer drops about 32" at 300 and retains "only" about 1750 ft-lbs.

I suspect that the true BC of the flat-base 536-grainer won't really be .416. (Which reminds me, I have the BCs swapped on the two right-hand bullets. The boat-tail should be .416 and the FB .414.) There is no practical difference between .416 and .414. The variability in muzzle velocity between shots will generate greater point of impact differences than 2-one-hundredths of a unit in BC. And that boat-tail angle is the one that yields the highest BC for that bullet.

I learned a couple of things in this exercise so far. First, ALL of the bullet MUST be in the swage, regarless of whether it is touching the walls or not, before the real swaging commences. Otherwise you end up with the left and middle bullets below.

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Also, the swage probably needs a little "easing" at the mouth, lest you end up with the bullet on the right.

Swaging a .50 caliber bullet on a handloading press DOES require some definite muscle. However, I figured a way to do it that minimized the groaning. I seat the swage 'til the lever 'cams over' fairly easy. Then I retract the lever, rotate the die 1/4 turn deeper, and 'cam over' again. I repeat that until it's all I can do to cam over - so far about 4 times. Then I rotate only 1/8th of a turn, and use some 'extra' muscle. Usually, the second 1/8th rotation completes the forming.

It should also be noted that the core material here is NOT pure lead. Pure lead will make a BIG difference. I simply wanted to see what I could do using a lead alloy with a BHN of about 22-ish. I MAY be able to do all of the forming in one stroke with a pure lead core. I am annealing the jackets, but I really don't think that matters too much with regard to the swaging.

I've decided to make a 'jackscrew' swaging press. (The kind of screw represented by a vice.) With a jackscrew with a pitch equal to the pitch on my lathe's leade screw (8 turns per inch), and a 15" wheel/lever, I can get about 40 tons of pressure on the base of the bullet. I like a jackscrew better than either a lever like a reloading press or a hydraulic-driven one. Just seems like I'd have more "feel". While the hydraulic-driven ram might deliver more force, the jackscrew will definitely deliver more than the lever-driven ram.

Paul
 
very interesting indeed thanks for sharing ,look forward to reading more from you all the best,wayne
 
do you mean something like a flypress,
I'm sorry, Wayne, I don't know what a "flypress" is. What I am talking about is a screw with a wheel on the "people end", a frame in which to hold the item to be pressed, and a ram that presses on the object as the screw is tightened. Home wine presses come to mind as an example. Here is a picture of something like I'm going to make, except it will hold the swaging die, not grapes. :)

Wine Making Fruit Presses and Crushers | HomeBrewIt.com Fourth down from the top - Item #5509

Paul
 
paul any chance of seeing any pictures of you swaging please . also a fly press should work a treat for your swaging and should be easy to get hold of,wayne
 
Wildcats are no harder to get in the UK, the only stumbling block is "proof" - every firearm sold in the UK must be test fired in the "Proof house", fine for standard calibres. The idea is that if a firearm doesn't blow apart with a 30% overload, then it's safe for sale. Archaic rules if you ask me...

Anyway, it's a right PITA for wildcats, I had to submit a written statement declaring that load X was a safe "service load", along with 3 cases & bullets, they then loaded the overloaded rounds for the test. Absolute bonkers, how exactly are you supposed to find a safe working load without trying it?

Legally, the only issue is convincing your FAO that you should be allowed a 50 cal for deer or target shooting!
 
I don't have any pictures handy, Wayne, but I can take some. Give me a day or two to get my act together to do it, and I'll post them.

That said, there's not much to see that isn't above in the "parts" pictures. Other than the press and me 'grunting', everything 'happens' inside the press. I can post some images of the die, the press and the extraction though. If there is something specific you would like to see, let me know.

The "boat-tails" made form the case heads are really more a matter of not wanting to 'waste' anything than a need or desire for a "boat-tail". It's really quite a bit of extra time to turn those down with consistent bullet-to-bullet taper. I just thought I'd turn the rim off of the case-head-made jacket in hopes of improving BC. However, at something on the order of 1650 f/s muzzle velocity, and my self-imposed limit of 300 yds for buffalo and 150 yds for everything else, small improvements in BC are really 'much ado about nothing'.

I have a real love of Martinis, and have a few more. I just traded a Unertl 'scope for another nice Martini - this one chambered in .257x.30-40 Krag Ackley. I'm trying to figure out what I want that one rebored to. The .577 Snider is currently high on the list of candidates. So is the .577-.450.

While the .257 is a fine hunting caliber, I've got several .257s, and in general, I'm finished with "Ackleys". I don't dislike them, it's just that I have found that the 'little' hassles they raise aren't commensurate with any "improvement" I care about. I'm not much into extracting the maximum velocity for any particular cartridge. I have in the past few years come to some conclusions and established some personal standards regarding "lethality" and what I "need" to accomplish what I want with how I hunt. The short version is:

1) Self-imposed max range of 300-ish yds,
2) Total vertical deflection (rise above line-of-sight plus fall below LoS) of no more than 12" out to 300 yds,
3) Muzzle energy less than 3400 ft-lbs - but mitigated by weight of rifle,
4) Deliver at least 2000 ft-lbs of energy to 300 yds.

The Martini above in .50 Alaskan can do all of the above, except for the trajectory. I make exception for it because I built it primarily to hunt NA bison. They are a big target, and delivering 2000 ft-lbs to 300 yds with a bullet 0.510" in diameter is, in my opinion, 'tolerable' as long as I don't have to aim "off hair".

Using those criteria, I have built several wildcats - .358x.376 Steyr, .338x.376 Steyr, 2 8mmx.376 Steyrs - one with a long throat for shooting 220-grain Sierra bullets and one with a short throat for shooting 1245-grain Hornadys, .338 Mauser Ackley Improved (AKA.338x57), .375x.284 Win, and the .375x7.5 Swiss. I have also applied those constraints to my reloading for several non-wildcats that I shoot like the .350 Win Mag, the .338 Federal (AKA .358x.308 Win), 8x57 Mauser and .338 Win Mag. Doing so has lead to increased enjoyment of shooting and an "easier" time of finding the most precise loads 'cause I'm not trying to "maximize" muzzle velocity.

I'll stop the sermon here. I'm not really 'preaching' per se, as I'm not interested in convincing anyone to adopt my personal criteria/standards. I'm just interested in presenting the results and letting people use them as they see fit. Building wildcats, and actually taking them from conception to 'blooded' will teach one a lot about what's "real" and what's not.

Paul

PS - Sorry gentlemen, I was composing why you were.

Thanks for the link, Wayne. An excellent explanation. Thanks for the info Mat.

Paul
 
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hi paul thanks again i would like to see the press,die and extraction but dont rush on my account looks like you have your hands full and you certainly dont need to stop as i am very interested in what you are doing all the best,wayne
 
OK Wayne, it's been more than "a day or two", but 'shift happens in a paradigm'. ;) Here are some more pictures.

First, here is the seating ram, the die, the Lee 459-500-3R cast bullet for the core, the "top end" of a 7mm Rem Mag case for the jacket, and the extracting rod.
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The ram may look like it has a 'lip', but I assure you that is only photographic artifact. The die is fairly crude because I made it to be a prototype but it worked so well that I just haven't made another.
The core is the same core mentioned and shown in the earlier posts.
The jacket was filed to be just the right weight to make a 550-grain bullet.
The "extraction rod" is a straightened out hex wrench. It was handy,and fit the hole I made for extraction. :oops:

Here is the die and ram in the press:
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Again it looks like the ram has a lip, and again I assure you it doesn't. That's just how tight a fit it is to the die.

Here is the top of the die showing the index mark I made.
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I use this mark to gage how much I want to rotate the die between each 'press'. To start with I move it half a rotation or about 0.04". As I near the end, I rotate only a quarter turn, or about 0.02".

Here is the jacket with lube on it before setting on the core and swaging:
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And before smearing it around the jacket.

I use RCBS Case Resizing Lube for 'release agent'. That seems appropriate.
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Here are the core and jacket on the ram ready to be pushed into the die:
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Here is the extractor rod in the top of the die before I tap it with a hammer to drop the swaged bullet.
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Not much to see after that except the bullet after it comes out of the swage.
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The bullet is not the correct size at this point. My bore is 0.510" and this bullet is 0.5155":
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I now put it through a Lee cast bullet sizer for .510 bullets. It pops out of there at 0.5103" - Perfect.
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Here is the finished bullet:
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And here is the a similar bullet loaded in a .50 Alaskan Cartridge. I simply love the way that finished cartridge looks. I find the proportions particularly pleasing to my eye.
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You'll note that the lube grooves of the cast bullet 'core' telegraph through the jacket of the finished bullet. At first, I didn't like that, and I made a core that had no "lube grooves". However, if you look at all the new "high tech" bullets coming out, the latest fad is to have "bore-riding" cores with "pressure bands". Heck, my bullets are just 'avant-garde'. :)

There ya go...

Paul
 
Paul, another article well up to your usual standard :tiphat: I have a friend who is a precision engineer by trade, now doing quite a lot of work for gunsmiths in his ostensible retirement. He is addicted to Greener GP shotgun actions, they are the Martini action. He has re-barrelled two with Shillen barrels and had them black powder and nitro proofed in 45-70. They are a pleasure to use. I will try and get some photographs of them for you.

Here is a link to the Greener GP; http://www.qq22.demon.co.uk/oes_shot/pages/greener.html

ft
 
paul thank you for taking the time to post pictures and exellent finished round can i ask if you have managed to test them fully yet and how accurate you have got them very interesting i would like to have a go at that myself all the best,wayne
 
flytie,

Believe me when I say I understand being "addicted to Greener GP shotgun actions". I share the same affliction. They are very simple and very elegant, and when one 'dresses them up' they definitely don't look like you put 'lipstick on a pig'.

I buy Martini actions whenever I can, but over here, they are pretty spendy. Tough to come by one for less than $US600. That price is for an action alone or a complete rifle. There are a herd of Martini Enfields from Pakistan that hit The States about 3 years ago. They are REALLY dogs and yet they are commanding $600 to $1000 each, supposedly for their "collector" value.

I've grown fond of single-shots, and in today's "tactical" world, single shots are too 'pedestrian' for modern gunmakers to fiddle with. The only real quality single shot that I am aware of that is currently in production and readily available 'over the counter' is the Ruger No. 1. Harrington and Richardson still make their top-break models, and while very utilitarian and good working arms, they aren't exactly pinnacles of firearm craftsmanship. Of course there's Thompson Contender, but I really don't like them. I assume that Holland and Holland and Purdy, in one form or another, are still producing their masterpieces, but for the "Regular Joe", those pieces are out of the question. Instead we have the "black" and "tactical" things that are easy to produce and more importantly, easy to market to the young y-chromosome. I would love to get my hands on a Fahrquarson falling block. I have the blueprints for one, and "some day" I will make one - If I don't die first - but making one will likely be the only way I'll ever own one.

Mostly this thread is about:

Don't listen to those that tell you you can't do something that seems 'doable'. If you think you should be able to do it, give it a go. If it doesn't work, you'll know the reason why, and the reason won't be "Because he said so".

All the best,
Paul
 
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Paul, how about these?

http://www.guntrader.co.uk/GunsForSale/results.php?fetch=Results&Filter[NewType][]=Shotgun&Filter[NewMechanism][]=Martini&Filter[Calibre][]=12%20gauge&perPage=30&sortField=Price&sortOrder=asc

I can find more too! In fact not long ago there was one on the Stalking Directory http://www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk/showthread.php?16387-Greener-GP. Importing for you might be slightly less hassle than for us, I'm not sure, but there are specialist exporters i can find for you?

Regards, ft
 
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