22 rim fire advice please

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EDM

Active Member
I am intending to buy my first 22 rf and am looking for advice and recommendations

What are the pros and cons of semi auto. compared to bolt action ? Accuracy, reliability, convenience, unloading to make safe.

Which brand do users prefer and what barrel length

How much scope is recommended, I assume use is within 100yds !

Has anyone used a red dot on a 22 and if so to what effect

Many thanks. Steven
I have a ruger 10/22 takedown semi auto and it’s great fun, shooting rabbits up to 60 yards and not noticed any issues with accuracy apart from the ammunition discrepancies, if you go down the SA route be careful what ammo you buy I know my rifle doesn’t like the coating on eley ammo and tends to jam within a few shots, CCI and Winchester work fine though.
 

spandit

Well-Known Member
Had a go with my mate's brand new T1X this evening. I had my P94S with me. Mine felt a little more solid operating the bolt but both had excellent triggers and I can't doubt the accuracy of the Tikka. He did have a far superior scope to me, which helped. Magazine very chunky - but surprisingly cheap in comparison (although not a problem for me!)
 

Muir

Well-Known Member
I took my Tikka out last Wednesday morning before the mercury got into the upper end of the glass. I tried some S&B "CLUB" ammo that surfaced at the local ranch store. Once the Tikka settled in to the new food, the 10 shot groups at 50M had all rounds cutting each other in a nice hole about the size of a US 10-cent piece. A tribute to the ammo and the rifle.~Muir
 

Erik Hamburger

Well-Known Member
I am intending to buy my first 22 rf and am looking for advice and recommendations

What are the pros and cons of semi auto. compared to bolt action ? Accuracy, reliability, convenience, unloading to make safe.

Which brand do users prefer and what barrel length

How much scope is recommended, I assume use is within 100yds !

Has anyone used a red dot on a 22 and if so to what effect

Many thanks. Steven
If you will use it for HUNTING I recommend a B/A rifle - as it is so much quieter than a S/A. The Action on a S/A can be quite noisy, and B/A rifles are more accurate - which doesn't mean that S/A rifles will not be accurate. The difference is very marginal.
A CZ .22LR will be one of the best you can get and also one of the cheapest - several options in the CZ range. I would always go for a synthetic stock, the shortest possible barrel if your main use will be hunting, and Stainless steel barrels if available.
If you're more keen on club/range/target shooting a longer barrel and a so-called 'heavy' or 'varmint' barrel. For hunting a 'sporter' or 'light' barrel.
Scope: The things to look for are: Multi-coated lenses; gas-filled, waterproof. The actual configuration (Variable or fixed, etc. ) are down to personal preference. If used for HUNTING I recommend to keep it simple. Fixed power, and no I.R. Haver a look at the Sightron 'Hunter' range: Very much off the Rader for most UK users, but it ticks all the boxes. And relatively cheap.
A Red Dot will be fine for close-in DAYTIME Hunting and plinking. Great for (daytime) HUNTING providing you buy a quality optic. Have a look at the Burris Fastfire, or the Aimpoint range if you want top of the range. It won't work very well in low-light conditions, when most hunting takes place. Also consider to mount a small Red Dot sight on top of your scope. Best of both worlds.
 

spandit

Well-Known Member
I have a scope for each barrel with QR mounts, the barrels hold zero pretty consistently after a change

If you will use it for HUNTING I recommend a B/A rifle - as it is so much quieter than a S/A. The Action on a S/A can be quite noisy, and B/A rifles are more accurate - which doesn't mean that S/A rifles will not be accurate. The difference is very marginal.
A CZ .22LR will be one of the best you can get and also one of the cheapest - several options in the CZ range. I would always go for a synthetic stock, the shortest possible barrel if your main use will be hunting, and Stainless steel barrels if available.
If you're more keen on club/range/target shooting a longer barrel and a so-called 'heavy' or 'varmint' barrel. For hunting a 'sporter' or 'light' barrel.
Scope: The things to look for are: Multi-coated lenses; gas-filled, waterproof. The actual configuration (Variable or fixed, etc. ) are down to personal preference. If used for HUNTING I recommend to keep it simple. Fixed power, and no I.R. Haver a look at the Sightron 'Hunter' range: Very much off the Rader for most UK users, but it ticks all the boxes. And relatively cheap.
A Red Dot will be fine for close-in DAYTIME Hunting and plinking. Great for (daytime) HUNTING providing you buy a quality optic. Have a look at the Burris Fastfire, or the Aimpoint range if you want top of the range. It won't work very well in low-light conditions, when most hunting takes place. Also consider to mount a small Red Dot sight on top of your scope. Best of both worlds.
Think he's already ordered a T1X
 

Squirrelbasher

Well-Known Member
Sako quad I have the holy trinity .22 , .17 hmr and .22 mag three rifles in one
Just out of interest Alan, which barrel stays on the most? A friend of mine has two quads, one has a .22 barrel and the other an hmr. He bought another barrel in hmr for some reason, well he said it’s in case the other one wears out. I said to him, if I had the two hmr barrels, I’d have the older one cut down to about 12:1/2 inches for shooting out of the truck. At least that would give more versatility than having two the same. I think he missed a trick and should’ve bought a .22 mag barrel instead.
 

alan123shooting

Well-Known Member
I tend to use the .22 mag barrel , it has been cut down to 14 inches which is handy out of a vehicle, also if a fox pops up, it’s good night, however you have to head shoot rabbits, otherwise a bit messy
 

carbon

Active Member
If you don’t like cleaning moderators, I suggest a CZ Ultra Lux / Jaguar or something with a 28”+ barrel. The barrel length makes it just as quiet as with a mod. Mine sounds like an airgun with CCI segmented (barely) subsonic (1050 ft/sec) and they put the hurt on pigeons and prairie dogs out to 130yds.

Or, skip futzing with Ruger factory 10/22s and buy a Kidd with the cool switch barrel (10sec). I have heavy 20” and Ultralight 16” barrels. Plus, Kidd has a patent on the tech to significantly reduce a 10/22 trigger pull (no one else comes close). Their 2-stage trigger is beautiful, and is about as good as a Bix n’ Andy TacSport Pro two stage.

You could slowly replace a factory 10/22’s parts with Kidd parts, but from what I’ve read, you’re money ahead by just buying the fully built Kidd straight off.

I’m no benchrest master, but I gather a Kidd is only very slightly less accurate than the best field 22LR (ie. Vudoo, Anschutz), but le Kidd has those nice 10 round flush Ruger rotary mags to pew pew pew pew!

(Edit: not sure Kidd rifles are available on the eastern side of the Atlantic, however!)
 
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SkippyDoo

Well-Known Member
Here’s a real working 22LR, BRNO Mod 2 56 plate :)
 

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Northman_83

Well-Known Member
You have the same early BRNO #2 I have.. with the "fat" stock.
My serial number is sub 6000.

368_1322744221.jpg
 

HeathStalker

Active Member
How often should an old Walther 22RF be cleaned? Suspect it is at least 60 years old - quite hard to age it but don't think they have made them for years. (any ideas / thoughts?). It shoots pretty accurately but not sure how it should be looked after.
 

SkippyDoo

Well-Known Member
How often should an old Walther 22RF be cleaned? Suspect it is at least 60 years old - quite hard to age it but don't think they have made them for years. (any ideas / thoughts?). It shoots pretty accurately but not sure how it should be looked after.
Don’t clean a 22LR
 

Northman_83

Well-Known Member
Hi SkippyDoo, could I ask why the 22LR should not be cleaned?
Once you have found THE ammunition your barrel likes, buy 5-10.000 rounds and shoot it until you notice the accuracy opens up.
Maybe check every 100 or 1000 rounds in a bench if its a new rifle.

Then see if there are other things wrong with the bedding, muzzle, scope, etc etc.. and then maybe clean it.
And always remove suppressor from rifle when not shooting it..

This is for a hunting rifle mind you.
For a competition rifle there could be some benefits, but hunting accuracy under field conditions, you would be hard pressed to see much advantage.
The barrel will last hundreds of thousands of rounds.


Dependent on the quality of the rifle and barrel... some used rifles have pitted barrels after improper storage and might benefit more.
 
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