A simple leatherwork project you could try?

[Cottis]

It's that time of year when a few birthdays are coming round, so the knives and needles have surfaced again while I make some random stuff for family/friends who value the finished article more than they do my time

A glasses case is quick and easy to make and a pretty good item to think about starting with as it requires all the basics (marking, cutting, glueing, sanding, edge bevelling, stitching and burnishing) but all of them are fairly minimal and/or straight forward in isolation and can be practiced on smaller offcuts first before embarking on your first actual project. That is what I would suggest for a complete novice. Try each step on scrap items first before going head on to a nice piece of leather.

With this in mind, I thought it might be useful to post the steps of this process to maybe encourage others to have a go. That could lead you to doing other stuff that is helpful in life whilst providing you with bespoke items that fit you rather than the pocket of some commercial and faceless enterprise. This took me 90 mins from start to finish. It will likely take longer if you are not experienced but it can be fun and the learning curve is quick.

Select your leather. I am using some 2mm Wax Ortensia veg tan by the Badalassi Carlo tannery. Before you start, mark out your template on some paper and then cut it out and fold it and see how it will work. Maybe staple the edges so it holds shut and put your glasses in to see how they fit. Are they too tight or too loose? Do the glasses stick out the end or is the case too deep? Start another template to improve until you find something that is suitable for your application. Transfer this template to a piece of cardboard like a cereal packet or similar. The rigidity of card will allow for more consistent marking on the leather. Now cut that out and use your template to mark out on your leather. Make sure you do it in a way that maximises leather yield.

​ Cut out with very sharp knife, scalpel preferably. Metal ruler for straight lines and freehand for the corners. Bevel the edges on the top where the glasses will enter as you will not have good access to this once glued up. Bevel, then sand softly by hand before burnishing. I use Tokonole but you can use water for this and a piece of hardwood or some cotton cloth. Basically dampen the edge and with light pressure from the cloth or wood, rub it consistently on all edges to create a flattened, burnished radius. ​ Apply some form of contact adhesive to internal edges (flesh side) of the leather. wait for it to dry clear and then carefully fold and stick together as neatly as possible. It will not be perfect, you will have an chance to sand and neaten this later. Not needed depending on the firmness of the leather but you could use some form of item to hold/clamp in place while glue dries. I use Intercom Ecostick 1816B which is very good for light projects. As you can see, it will not be neat or perfect at this point ​ Using some lowish grit (coarse) glasspaper, sand the edges so they are flat and flush and to encourage a nicely curved radius on the corners. Edges sould be smooth, mated together by the glue but not showing any sign of unevenness This fairly aggresive sanding will result in a raised edged/lip as it pushes the topgrain of the leather upwards away from the edge. ​ Which is why we then bevel with an edge beveller. This will remove any rough edges and result in a radiused bevel. This is done both sides. It will be much improved but still a touch rough as this picture shows. We will get back to sorting that later. Now we need to mark out stitching line. Using calipers, mark a line as shown. You want it set back from the edge to allow enough room to stitch but not so far in that integrity of the edges will be compromised. Decide on stitch spacing and however you mark it out, go ahead and do that to test for how the stitches will look. I use diamond stitching chisels for this, so punch only just through to the other side (not totally all the way through) I then turn the item over and repunch on the other side (not all the way through again) which results in nice stitching lines both sides. You could use a table fork to mark out your lines and then use a nail or similar to do your holes or any sort of bradawl you have available. I start at the opposite end to what is shown, as I double the first stitch over the end of the edge at 90 degrees to provide integrity for that part of the item shown in the next couple of pics. This is saddle stitch using 0.8mm waxed thread and saddlers harness needles but you could use whatever thread is suitable and normal sewing needles. Just be careful not to constantly stab yourself as saddlers harness needles are semi blunt. Sewing needles are not. ​ Double stitched over the end to provide strength. Your finished stitching might look something like this. I then use a much finer grit of sandpaper (around 400 or more) to sand the edges again to provide a uniform finish prior to burnishing. Do this at 45 degreees, then flush to the edge then 45 degrees on the other side. Hammer down your stitches to make them sit flat and to flare the thread which looks more attractive. It will also help to close up your stitch holes. I use a ball pein hammer (the ball end) which is a craft sort which is kept clean but you could use whatever you have available as long as the ball surface area is clean and free from corrosion/roughness. ​ Time to burnish which flattens down the fibres on the edges. Via moisture, pressure and heat, these fibres will sit down and the edges will take on a smooth and shiny sheen which looks better and realises a finish that will stand up to the test of time. It will look like this. Smooth edges with a hint of sheen. Type of leather you use and technique will ultimately determine what finish you get. The best veg tanned leather burnish the best. Much neater than the rought cut and rough sanded edges. It is basically now a curved and smoothed radius. And you are done. Sit back and either admire your efforts or find faults, of which there will be many. Nothing is ever perfect. These are the items I used to make this quick project. Many you will likely have or can substitute for other things. The item you cannot really replace with some other tool is the edge beveller. They can be had for very little money.

 

[wisp]

Very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to explain n show how it’s done

 

[kenbro]

As above and many thanks.
Ken.

 

[Riverwye]

Great guide there, thanks for sharing

 

[willie_gunn]

What an excellent tutorial - thank you for taking the time to record all the steps in detail, and add the photos, which makes for a hugely informative post

 

[rollotomassi]

Like everything leatherwork takes a ton of skill to master. The stitching trickiest for me

 

[Cottis]

Like everything leatherwork takes a ton of skill to master. The stitching trickiest for me

Can you see the pictures ok? Imgur closed access to UK servers a while back but if you have a VPN set to certain countries, you can still view ok. I imagine most people who view this in the UK will be met with a series of blank pictures which is a shame. All the result of the online safety act I think.

 

[rollotomassi]

No it says "content not viewable"