alaskan sawmill
- Thread starter nick.308
- Start date
I've got one. What saw will you use with it?
It's really important to have a good flat and stiff surface /plank /ladder/beam to run it with. Your planks will be no straighter than the guide surface you use. Another plank will tend to bend or twist.
Also, it's quite tedious after a while.
You need a couple of new, or very evenly sharpened chains.
Planks can be tricky because you may then need to do a lot of subsequent planing and truing them up after seasoning.
What will you use the planks for? Easier to cut beams, and may be more useable.
Very well worth spending time thinking about what dimensions you want to cut beforehand.
Unlike the poster above, I found it not unduly risky. He may have used a different product which name I forget.
It's really important to have a good flat and stiff surface /plank /ladder/beam to run it with. Your planks will be no straighter than the guide surface you use. Another plank will tend to bend or twist.
Also, it's quite tedious after a while.
You need a couple of new, or very evenly sharpened chains.
Planks can be tricky because you may then need to do a lot of subsequent planing and truing them up after seasoning.
What will you use the planks for? Easier to cut beams, and may be more useable.
Very well worth spending time thinking about what dimensions you want to cut beforehand.
Unlike the poster above, I found it not unduly risky. He may have used a different product which name I forget.
Home Loader
Well-Known Member
I ran an sthil 880 with a 5foot bar on an Alaskan mill. Keep your chains very sharp, depending on what style of chain you use depends on how you should sharpen it, it's worth being very precise though.
They are hard work, depending on how much timber you have to cut, I would recommend paying someone to cut it and enjoy the final product.
They are hard work, depending on how much timber you have to cut, I would recommend paying someone to cut it and enjoy the final product.
Ive not got a big saw yet so was after any reccomendations?
I was looking at this website and they have some awesome gear: Chainsawbars - Selectors for chainsaw guide bars, chains and sprockets
Im not interested in doing it professionally, I was just wanting to have a play with a few logs that are too good to turn into firewood and possibly make some garden furniture and then probably sell it on after when ive got bored
I was looking at this website and they have some awesome gear: Chainsawbars - Selectors for chainsaw guide bars, chains and sprockets
Im not interested in doing it professionally, I was just wanting to have a play with a few logs that are too good to turn into firewood and possibly make some garden furniture and then probably sell it on after when ive got bored
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
My mate (a tree surgeon) has(had) one. The timber he planked was ok. However from a joinery perspective needed quite a bit of further work to get it to a usable state.
I would suggest that you see if there’s a local sawmill that can cut it up for you.
We used to use one in Tosside (near Settle N Yorks) sadly closed as far as I know.
However the resulting timber is more accurately to size and less machining to be suitable for further use.
I suppose it depends on what you want from the timber and what price you put on your time.
After all while it’s down the sawmill you could be out stalking.
I would suggest that you see if there’s a local sawmill that can cut it up for you.
We used to use one in Tosside (near Settle N Yorks) sadly closed as far as I know.
However the resulting timber is more accurately to size and less machining to be suitable for further use.
I suppose it depends on what you want from the timber and what price you put on your time.
After all while it’s down the sawmill you could be out stalking.
jimmer.13
Well-Known Member
I use Stihl MS 660 with a 3ft bar and a ripping chain, as all the above posts a sturdy frame for your first cut and a way you go.
It can be a cheap option for some good planks but also its a fair bit of graft but rewarding all the same.
I've framed some lean to sheds and made planks for high seats with mine from wind blown larch.
Some great vids on Youtube you'll enjoy it pal another skill come the end of days (providing you have fuel for your saw of course)
It can be a cheap option for some good planks but also its a fair bit of graft but rewarding all the same.
I've framed some lean to sheds and made planks for high seats with mine from wind blown larch.
Some great vids on Youtube you'll enjoy it pal another skill come the end of days (providing you have fuel for your saw of course)
Home Loader
Well-Known Member
Depending on your skill at sharpening and using a chainsaw, it is possible to run out timber by attaching a straight edge to the timber, and cutting vertically with the oil tank resting on the straight edge and the felling dogs running tight to the edge. Not as easy but cheaper.
I run an old Husqvarna 2100 with a 26” bar on a mill that I bought off Amazon. Could really do with a longer bar as I effectively can only cut 20” wide. Saying that I have found it very satisfying to mill my own planks. Really like the effect that the ripping chain gives, which although not perfectly smooth. Is ideal for garden furniture. Best advice that I got from my mate who is a tree surgeon and uses a boat type hand winch to pull the mill through the timber which is being cut. Have a look on YouTube and you’ll see how easy it is to bolt the winch on to the mill. Have attached a couple of photos of some garden furniture which I have made out of milled timber.
Attachments
Im not too fussed on having perfectly smooth wood. It was just to make some rustic garden furniture. I have a free source of some lovely oak that came down that was just too good to turn into firewood. I just like the idea of making something that might outlast my lifetime.
Im not bothered about hard graft because thats what makes something worth building and the memories that come with it.
Im not bothered about hard graft because thats what makes something worth building and the memories that come with it.
Yep looks ace. whats the difference with a ripping chain?
What did you finish your wood with?
i was thinking a 48" mill so it give me more options for milling bigger logs.
How often does the chain need sharpening?
landkeeper
Well-Known Member
Split it , a selection of good wedges youd be very suprised whats achievable
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
How do you think they used to do it?
There’s an awful lot of timber that was riven from logs. A series of wedges and a hammer followed by adzes to shape up with.
We still have a number of the old tools from the village joiners shop my father took over forty years or so ago. Double handed saws (it still had the pit) cross cut and rip. Along with various adzes for different jobs. Roughing, smoothing (the effect often left in made to look old beams is a sign of lesser workmanship) etc they could get a perfectly flat smooth finish with them. Hard work I know I tried it.
TBH though for your intended purpose a mill will turn out what you need. Just make sure you keep it sharp and let the saw do the work.
Preparation is the key to a good job.
landkeeper
Well-Known Member
I have seen bigger trunks admittedly with less knots from limbs, split with wooden wedges into rustic planks i was facinated,! but then the man doing it had a lifetime working with big timber and he must have been well.past 70 he made it look simple , i'd imagine reading the grain is the important bit
John Gryphon
Well-Known Member
I have a stihl 880 and an Alaskan. It's hard work doing anything with a saw that big and expensive. However so is timber. There are plenty videos to look at on the interweb so I wont go into detail on doing the milling. You need space, dry storage, tools to process and a way of getting rid of sawdust
Scandially
Well-Known Member
T'will end in tears.
Similar threads
