Annealing cases

One of three 150mtr groups shot toady with a rifle I built for PRL competition, after annealing the cars by hand with socket in hand held drill and maap gas flame

The other two groups measure just over .3”

The group in the image below measures 0.17 moa

You don’t need to spend time on gadgets to get a reliable annealing “solution”

The brass has been fired several times and has been full length sized after being used in another rifle of the same calibre built using the same reamer
 

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The effects of fully annealing, or stress relieving at lower temperatures, of brass, is not something easily quantified. Brinell hardness is not directly related, though relatively easily measured with simple tools. It's the change in ductility that matters.

Eking out the maximum life that you can get from cases is worthy, but you'll never make them as good, or any better, than they came from the factory. IMO. They are a consumable.

The "rub them with soap and twiddle them in a flame until it turns black" seems as good to me as any other method, certainly worth a try, before investing in and experimenting with a Gucci machine to run through them by the hundred. Unless that's the sort of scale that you are actually using, or are using very expensive cases, belted magnums etc, where it makes sense.

Nevertheless it's not all about plain economics, it's a fascinating subject, and I confess to having tried my own ideas on brass that could really benefit, .303 and 30-30 specifically. Doubling the case life from say ten to twenty uses might even save me maybe 2p/bang, ignoring the set-up costs, gas, my time, etc..

Basic method annealing is so simple. Easy peasy!

If you’re not reloading too many rounds at a time, no fancy machine is necessary.
Follow the guidance on you tube.
Personally, I use a glove, twirl the brass in the flame and place onto a damp cloth to cool.
No quenching necessary, just ensure the flame is directed only at case neck & shoulder.

It’s not just about saving money.
Extending your brass life also means you keep your ‘tuned’ brass working exceptionally well for much longer.
 
A few thoughts which I have been musing on given some of the comments in this thread...

The effects of fully annealing, or stress relieving at lower temperatures, of brass, is not something easily quantified. Brinell hardness is not directly related, though relatively easily measured with simple tools. It's the change in ductility that matters.

Well yes, it is easily quantified...

The significant change in ductility occurs above stress relieving temperature when recrystallisation has occurred at full annealing temperatures above 450˚C

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As the graph shows stress relief annealing has variable hardness outcomes depending on the initial hardness...the stress history of the brass...between 250˚C and 350˚C these can vary dramatically. There is much more tolerance for our crude systems around 400˚C where they come together and thus give a reasonably consistent hardness whilst maintaining factory neck tension before the grain size rapidly increases during recrystallisation above 500˚C.

By a curious coincidence just "twiddling" a case in the flame until a smear of laundry soap on the neck and shoulder goes black enables you to achieve around 400˚C repeatedly...case to case, batch to batch including for neck thickness and maker, irrespective of either timing or position in flame or variable ambient light.



The big advantage of the lovely semi-automated devices that @Yorric and @1066 have shown and described are that you are not having to load each case...the carousel types that you have to load by hand do not seem much of an advantage over hand held with soap labour-wise to me. The carousels though should produce more consistent case to case results than hand-held and counting because of the constant position of the case in the flame.

All the timed-to-determine-temperature systems whether flame, lead or salt depend on the initial setting up and constancy of the heat source and timer for each session. How many degrees does each case cool the salt bath say over 20? The lead chilled and solidified inside the cases when I tried and failed with that so it does have a cooling effect.

The soap turning black is a constant temperature, session to session, week in week out.

Any of the timed systems with a heat source capable of melting the brass, rely on precise timing to hit that 400˚C and not get into the recrystallisation temperature where you will reduce neck tension. I stress that I do not think that even full annealing of the case neck and shoulder ruins the brass...it will have a reduced neck tension until it has been stressed a few times by resizing and firing...but the batch will all be similar and should therefore yield similar POI results. Running it through a Lee full length sizer a few times would toughen it up. 400˚C will just be closer to the original neck tension.


The quoted fact that annealing is dependant on temperature and time should not be confused with the use of timing to achieve a temperature, especially given our situation of the thin material of a cartridge case neck with a 1400˚C flame. Time at a given temperature is significant of course when you are stress relieving a tonne or two of brass stampings or castings in a kiln and the heat source will not get that mass up to a stress relieving temperature instantly or through the actual thickness of material.

If anyone with a timed machine does not agree the near instantaneous nature of heat transfer through the thin material, perhaps they could have a go trying try to achieve a Tempilaq change on the outside without affecting the Tempilaq on the inside of the neck. Paint the Tempilaq inside and out and try and get the timing just right in order to create a temperature difference across the thickness of the neck material and just turn the Tempilaq transparent on the outside and not the inside.


This then leads to the significance of whether the Tempilaq is painted on the inside or the outside of the neck which again again I think is minimal...Tempilaq is designed to indicate when the surface it is painted on has reached or exceeded the specified temperature. It is obviously true that Tempilaq on the outside of the neck is in the direct flame but for the full thickness of Tempilaq to go transparent, the metal surface it is painted on must also reach that temperature. Below the specified temperature, the brass is acting as a heat sink and preventing the Tempilaq in contact with it from changing.

Even if it was possible to have the Tempilaq on the outside go transparent because it was in direct contact with the flame, the flame will also be swirling into the mouth of the neck and playing on the Tempilaq inside anyway so the end result is still going to be much the same.

Alan
 
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That sounds a good summary of what we are trying to achieve when stress relieving our brass. Where I did find Tempilaq useful when I first started annealing was to prove to myself that there was no significant heat migration down the case to the head area, in fact by painting a strip down the length of the case I was surprised at just how much you need to abuse the process before the head gets unreasonably hot.
 
That sounds a good summary of what we are trying to achieve when stress relieving our brass. Where I did find Tempilaq useful when I first started annealing was to prove to myself that there was no significant heat migration down the case to the head area, in fact by painting a strip down the length of the case I was surprised at just how much you need to abuse the process before the head gets unreasonably hot.

Yes I found that as well.

In the comparative test I did on the aluminium flat in Sept 2017 I was surprised that the Tempilaq didn't even start to change until very near the soap going black....Reading the usage document on Tempilaq Site today it was made apparent why...I paraphrased it earlier...the Tempilac is designed to turn at or above the specified temperature. The soap does almost the opposite and usefully for our purposes gives a lead up which I guesstimated (with the help of an IR gun) that started to change to beige around 330˚C.

I need to do a bit more to confirm that...one day ...one day!

Alan
 
I've been reading this with much interest. I hope to try annealing my cases soon. I particulary liked the post about using Fairy household soap, and have found that it's available via Ebay , although I'm not sure it's 'Fairy' make.
 
Great thread - thanks especially to Alan. Got me started (manual soap method) which I wouldn't have without this thread.
 
If anyone’s interested, I posted re-my finished PID controller over on ukv last week......

Pleased with the result and in the end it was just a question of assembling the bits in the right order! :rofl:

If you go back a page or two, there’s an interesting observation of the real world test results undertaken by Pinkfoot.

Cheers

Fizz
B8556702-0323-4D80-BEC4-2FD5BC296965.jpeg

I rest my case...:rofl:

E4AA6106-DD11-48B3-83C4-FA9120A33263.jpeg

The inside....NB The wiring is specific to this PID/ssr combination. Other PID’s and SSR’s are available

BF9E588B-A328-48F1-9639-95F51C317142.webp
 
This was the simplest and repeatable system I came up with. I found it quicker, easier and cheaper to use soap than tempilaq. But I have a pot if you would like it at a very reasonable price.



Alan


Hi Alan,

Do you still have that used pot of 'Tempilaq' available for sale to an interested Punter please? If so, I am that Punter fellow and will send you a P.M. with my postal details therin. If you don't still have said and have passed it onwards already due to that comm'. well then .. Pooooh!

Best Regards,
Blooby159
 
Hi Alan,

Do you still have that used pot of 'Tempilaq' available for sale to an interested Punter please? If so, I am that Punter fellow and will send you a P.M. with my postal details therin. If you don't still have said and have passed it onwards already due to that comm'. well then .. Pooooh!

Best Regards,
Blooby159

Yes I do and it is yours!

Alan
 
Yes I do and it is yours!

Alan

Thank you my friend... I have responded to your reply from another, similarly informative thread dominated by your shared information and sent you a PM with my details within it..

ATB & sincere regards,
B ......
 
I’ve got some nickel plated 308 brass, how would you anneal these?

I would use soap and a gas torch to ensure that I achieved, but did not take the cases above, the 400˚C stress relieving annealing temperature.

If you wish to do a full annealing temperature of 680˚C you should take extra care to ensure you have good ventilation and don't breathe the overshoot...nickel and zinc fumes do not really pertain unless you get up to their boiling/ burning temperatures when doing something like Welding or Brazing at higher temperatures, but better be safe than sorry. Zinc Flu/Metal Fume Fever is most uncomfortable.

The old blacksmith I worked with was not great on 'elf and safety but he always kept the doors open for a through draft, summer or winter. His take was "Our bodies are designed to breathe air and not breathe smoke and fumes, so the less of those in our lungs the better!"

Alan
 
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I would use soap and a gas torch to ensure that I achieved, but did not take the cases above, the 400˚C stress relieving annealing temperature.

If you wish to do a full annealing temperature of 680˚C you should take extra care to ensure you have good ventilation and don't breathe the overshoot...nickel and zinc fumes do not really pertain unless you get up to their boiling/ burning temperatures when doing something like Welding or Brazing at higher temperatures, but better be safe than sorry. Zinc Flu/Metal Fume Fever is most uncomfortable.

The old blacksmith I worked with was not great on 'elf and safety but he always kept the doors open for a through draft, summer or winter. His take was "Our bodies are designed to breathe air and not breathe smoke and fumes, so the less of those in our lungs the better!"

Alan
Thanks Alan
 
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