Bedding pillars

Woodlander

Well-Known Member
I’m looking to pillar bed a Sako 75 and was wondering whether any gunsmiths on here make them?
I’ve heard that when undertaking a bedding job some smiths machine there own pillars and I’m sure there must be a market for them.
 

Woodlander

Well-Known Member
Ok. I knew Brownells sold pillars,I wasn’t sure whether they were a generic, cut yourself to fit. I’ll speak to Norman Clark tomorrow,how much can a couple of short lengths or aluminium tube cost......?
Thanks Enfieldspares
 

Yorric

Well-Known Member
Buy some aluminium tube online of siutable bore & O/dia then cut it to length (hacksaw/file or lathe), file some grooves in o/dia to ensure good keying with epoxy deburr ends. Cost pennies each. Not rocket science!

Ian
 

dodgyknees

Well-Known Member
I did four rifles on the weekend, all plastic stocked Tikka T3s. I have also done timber and laminate T3s and several Howas using the exact same method.

Used a length of aluminium round tube, OD 9.53mm, thickness 1.42mm. This leaves a hole of 6.67mm which is ~0.335mm clearance to either side of the action screw and a perfect internal diameter for a tapered screw head to sit in. The length is measured with the 'other' end of the vernier caliper, ensuring that the length is cut with a fine hacksaw and finished square to a length ~0.1mm longer than the hole through the stock. Edges are deburred inside and out. One end is then slightly bevelled with glass paper just enough for it to sit comfortably in the stock hole.

The action screw hole is then progressively widened in half millimetre increments to 9.5 mm. The aluminium pillar is sanded roughly to keep the surface and then slowly tapped into the hole, from the top down, ensuring that it enters square on the bevelled edge. No adhesives required.

As soon as the pillars were installed, the action screws were torqued to 50 in-lbs. The feel of the talk wrench reaching its set value is considerably more positive than in an unbedded stock. Job done.

I have used one quite expensive stainless steel pillar kit for a Sako 75 and it made precisely zero difference to the outcome compared to the materials and method used above.

121812
 

takbok

Well-Known Member
I can turn some for you FOC if you let me know what dimensions you need. Just need to find that bit of aluminium bar I have...
 

Ronin

Distinguished Member
One of the Pillars for the Sako 75 requires machining a cut out to accommodate thee base of the magazine lock hanger

It requires measurement to cut the pillars specifically for every action stock combination
 

takbok

Well-Known Member
One of the Pillars for the Sako 75 requires machining a cut out to accommodate thee base of the magazine lock hanger

It requires measurement to cut the pillars specifically for every action stock combination
Thanks, have got an A1 & A3 stock for determining the cutout dimensions.

Woodlander, if you want to give me a length I can still help. I assume it's an A1?
 

Woodlander

Well-Known Member
Hi Takbok,I would be delighted to take you up on your offer of the pillars. It’s a 75 action 1, .222 rebarreled in .204.
As Ronin mentioned,the recoil lug is very close to the front action screw and I’ve read somewhere that the internal diameter would ideally be 0.280” which allows a little more thickness to be retained when milling out for the recoil lug. I’ll see if I can work out the length needed,but I can adjust to suit if need be,although I’m not sure I trust my measuring skills.
Thanks so much for this,I really appreciate it,probably would never have got around to it without this.
Cheers
Paul
 

Woodlander

Well-Known Member
Dodgyknees,I do like your method, seems far simpler and no bedding material used,do you consider full bedding unnecessary? I have to admit that part does scare me.
Was the 75 you pillar bedded a wood/ laminate or plastic stock?
 

keith rippin

Well-Known Member
I’m looking to pillar bed a Sako 75 and was wondering whether any gunsmiths on here make them?
I’ve heard that when undertaking a bedding job some smiths machine there own pillars and I’m sure there must be a market for them.
I now use stainless tube bought quite cheaply from ebay - There is a good choice both of internal diameter and of wall thickness. It is easy to grind small grooves in the tube to give a mechanical grip on the bedding compound and one foot (30cms) of tube is sufficient to pillar bed 3 rifles (assuming there are 2 stock bolts)
 

takbok

Well-Known Member
Hi Takbok,I would be delighted to take you up on your offer of the pillars. It’s a 75 action 1, .222 rebarreled in .204.
As Ronin mentioned,the recoil lug is very close to the front action screw and I’ve read somewhere that the internal diameter would ideally be 0.280” which allows a little more thickness to be retained when milling out for the recoil lug. I’ll see if I can work out the length needed,but I can adjust to suit if need be,although I’m not sure I trust my measuring skills.
Thanks so much for this,I really appreciate it,probably would never have got around to it without this.
Cheers
Paul
No problem at all. I can make them a tiny bit longer if you're unsure of length. Will try and get them done by the end of weekend.

Rory
 

Woodlander

Well-Known Member
Hi Rory. Again,thank you for this.
I’ve measured the screw diameter at 0.234” or just under 6mm. rear pillar length would be 1.228
Front pillar length would be 0.850
I’ve found that the stock already has brass sleeves(pillars?) fitted,is this usual and factory fitted or would the previous owner have done this? It’s a laminate Varmint stock. Cheers
Paul
 

Woodlander

Well-Known Member
I was thinking to tap them out,fit proper pillars and bed it using a compound. One of the ‘sleeves’ is sitting 20 thou proud of the action,which can’t be good. What do you think?
 

JockStalk

Well-Known Member
Rory - great offer of help!

For any DIY-ers, I went into B&Q where in the lighting aisle they have spare bits for light fittings - aluminium tube for light fittings is smooth on the inside and threaded on the outside, and makes a fine wee pillar if you cut it then file it to length. The outside thread keys nicely in epoxy.

Of course mine didn't need a mag cut out like Ronin is saying as it wasn't a Sako 75.
 

ejg

Well-Known Member
We have just started making stocks for Heym Rifles. Heym uses steel pillars with a wood screw outer which screw into the stock. These pillars are vital for the Heym setup. Now we have internal carbon pillars in our stock but the stock must be slightly lower in height than the pillars. We made up our own pillars that have M10 thread on the outside and cut M10 into the stock. After seeing how well this works to adjust the pillar position I am sure this technique could be used for other rifles. Before bedding the Heym one presses the action into the stock and screws pillars in from the bottom until touching the action. The advantage of the threaded pillars is that one can adjust the action position up down and angle. Once adjusted in the correct position the action and floor plate can be bedded. If the wall section of pillars is quite small it is better to use steel anyway.
edi
 

antsa

Well-Known Member
I did four rifles on the weekend, all plastic stocked Tikka T3s. ........
DK, just stumbled over this today. I'm thinking of putting pillars in my GRS laminate stock on my .260 Rem. Your method seems very simple which is just perfect for a klutz like me. One question: You mention that the pillar is cut 0.5mm longer than the hole in the stock. When you tap it in does it sit sit flush with the underside of the stock inlet and slightly proud on the top side where it mates with the action?

Cheers
 

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