Blaser R8 oiling
- Thread starter Faurholdt
- Start date
Never applied anything on my R8
Just kept it clean and dry
Passed a patch through the barrels occasionally
I just don’t put it away damp
Just kept it clean and dry
Passed a patch through the barrels occasionally
I just don’t put it away damp
you can buy them from Braces or moan to Blaser direct they might send you 1.
paulbshooting
Well-Known Member
My R8 gets lots of use in all weathers. I use the jakele pull thro kit with the spray off Paul Hill at corintum range. I find the chamber can start to rust, so clean and sparringly use gun oil on there and bolt head face. Remove any blood off stock and barrel. I wipe barrel with oiled rag in winter.
Deutsch - Drahthaar
Well-Known Member
I'm on my 3rd on one and 2nd on the other.
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
Some will say you never need to clean a gun. I once sat in a very comfortable arm chair in a very nice gun shop whilst the proprietor quietly informed another of his clients that he may as well just put his guns in the bin. The chap had inherited his grandfathers pair of fine guns (worth £30k plus). He had just put them away wet, not bothered cleaning them and he pulled them out of the cabinet 6 months later. Barrels and action face all completely pitted. Cleaning them up would take them well below recommended wall thickness. He had effectively put £30k in the bin.I recently bought a Blaser R8 ultimate as my first gun and I am wondering what I should oil with gun oil.
Does the coating on the receiver, bolt or barrel need oil?
Are there places where it is damaging to oil?
Thank you,
Andreas
So with any gun, first wipe off any water, and if its been a wet day let it stand somewhere nice and warm so that an internal water is driven out.
If there is blood or mud, wipe off with a damp cloth.
Barrels. Push a couple of balls of kitchen towel or loo paper down the barrels with a cleaning rod. This will push out the worst of the fouling. Then push one with a few drops of 3 in 1 oil, or a gun oil, down to take the last bits out. Then run a clean paper, wool mop down with clean oil.
Give the the outside of the barrels a wipe over with a cloth. I think the best are the soft yellow dusters, with a few drops of oil.
On the action body and forend, brush out any crud with a toothbrush or paint brush and wipe over with cloth. From time to time, a drop or two of gun oil / 3 in 1 on the moving parts.
Woodwork- wipe clean. If its an oiled finish, go to an art shot and buy a small bottle of premium quality boiled linseed oil. Once every six months take a finger tip full and rub it into the wood. Let it dry and then buff off with a soft cloth.
And from time to time have a gunsmith give it a good service. Oils tend to evaporate off the volitile fractions leaving behind a guminess, that is not very good as a lubricant. Also bits of powder residue and other dust gets in and can gum up the works. Time to time - probably once every couple of years, but very much depends on use. A clay gun shooting thousands of clays, may need every few months.
With most modern over and unders, the stock is easily removed by the stock bolt - usually a torx, allen or big screwdriver. And its hidden by the butt plate.
Older side by sides have very visible pins on the hand that require very well fitted turnscrews and good technique so you don’t wreck them - go to an art gunsmith.
Give the action a good blast out with a copious amount of gun oil from an aerosol can. Best give it a quick blast, leave for half an hour for all crud to soften and blast it again. If you have a airline even better, but aersol is good enough. Dry it all off with kitchen towel, and then sparingly re apply a good gun oil to the key moving parts.
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