As per the title,are they any good? either the normal type or the laser type.
cheers
Pete
cheers
Pete
Bore Sighters
- Thread starter Peter Eaton
- Start date
Hornet 6
Well-Known Member
I have the normal collimator type, a cheap Hawk one, it is not the answer for zeroing a scope, it may or may not get you on paper.
I set the scope with it, then zero check at 25 yards, adjust as needed and then finish off at your chosen range.
What the collimator will do is allow you to record the position of the cross hairs once zeroed, then should you need to remove the scope, or it takes a knock you can recheck using the collimator, and that will be very close to a proper zero.
To some up I use mine, but would not buy another one.
Neil.
I set the scope with it, then zero check at 25 yards, adjust as needed and then finish off at your chosen range.
What the collimator will do is allow you to record the position of the cross hairs once zeroed, then should you need to remove the scope, or it takes a knock you can recheck using the collimator, and that will be very close to a proper zero.
To some up I use mine, but would not buy another one.
Neil.
I've used my Tasco Shotsaver collimator for years - It works well enough to get me within a couple of inches of zero, first shot at 50 yards out of any of my rifles (from 22 to 30-06) & I wouldn't be without it. At 100 yards always gets me on an A4 target first shot.
As said previously this type is also good to check that nothing has moved much if the scope has had a knock.
My only criticism of it is the spuds on mine are not the expanding mandrel type that some makes had in the past, and these were better and less likely to damage the barrel crown. I must say that I'm not too happy pushing a spring loaded spud down my barrels and I do it very carefully.
As with many things they are only as good as the operator and I know some people who can't make them work - usually because they don't want them to!
Ian
As said previously this type is also good to check that nothing has moved much if the scope has had a knock.
My only criticism of it is the spuds on mine are not the expanding mandrel type that some makes had in the past, and these were better and less likely to damage the barrel crown. I must say that I'm not too happy pushing a spring loaded spud down my barrels and I do it very carefully.
As with many things they are only as good as the operator and I know some people who can't make them work - usually because they don't want them to!
Ian
Cheers gents. As said I only want it to get me on paper for the reasons said above.
Thanks
pete
Thanks
pete
Pete
I have one (borrowed) which I use for two reasons:
a) to check that the reticle is correctly aligned and not squint before going off to zero.
b) to check the scope after zeroing and to confirm that the reticle is at or near the middle of its vertical and horizontal adjustment.
I have bought a Wheeler Level-level-level http://www.midwayuk.com/apps/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?SaleItemID=529349 and use it in conjunction with the collimator.
Regards JCS
I have one (borrowed) which I use for two reasons:
a) to check that the reticle is correctly aligned and not squint before going off to zero.
b) to check the scope after zeroing and to confirm that the reticle is at or near the middle of its vertical and horizontal adjustment.
I have bought a Wheeler Level-level-level http://www.midwayuk.com/apps/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?SaleItemID=529349 and use it in conjunction with the collimator.
Regards JCS
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I got a bore sighter today. Shoulkd have done it ages ago, yes it only gets me on paper but to get on paper before meant scope on...then fire..scope off then shim...you know the routine....stress and hassle...this eve it was easy. Scope on, use the bore sight, if a shim need i new straight away in the comfort of my living room.
Cheers gents
Cheers gents
Brithunter
Well-Known Member
Hmmm I have one, my second, the first had those awful expanding "Spuds" which lasted all of two weeks before one failed. Getting it replaced was my first trail in dealing with the dreaded The Sporstman........................... Eventually after several months i got the one I have now which has about 16 spuds with the brass spring. the spuds are under size and some I wrap thin paper around to get a better fit which gives more accurate results in setting the scope up initially. When we get the workshop sorted out the intention is the grind some brass ones to suit each rifle. Only then do I think that they can be relied upon for scope zero checking. Until then they are fine for getting the first shots near the intended POI.
Oh mine is a collimeter.
Oh mine is a collimeter.
Brit your idea for making some brass spuds is a good one, but how will you stop the optics head from slipping round? I've been thinking of adding a counter balance weight to mine.
Interesting spelling option - I was taught that optical alignment tools were collimators - I'd not seen collimeter before, is it a trade name?
Ian
Interesting spelling option - I was taught that optical alignment tools were collimators - I'd not seen collimeter before, is it a trade name?
Ian
deerwarden
Well-Known Member
Had one for years and find it good for checking zero if you make a note of where the cross hairs are for each rifle. also gets you on the paper quickly, however so will bore sighting the rifle. Seldom use it now as bore sighting is O.K. to get on target, however should we be sticking things up the barrel and possibly affecting the crown, havn't tried a lazer one so can't compare, wouldn't sell mine but very gentle with inserting it and had no trouble yet, surprised someone hasn't picked up on it yet and started a bun fight. deerwarden
Brithunter
Well-Known Member
Hmmm probably my mistake but it might be an American version of it like the Sweeny one. I would look it up but I have a nasty feeling the article was in the NRA Gunsmithing Guide which the Plods took for some reason.
As for the brass spuds that is one issue I have not figured out on all of them. On the ones with fore sights a prong can be solder tot eh spud which has small prongs for either side of the sight ramp.
I went and zeroed the rifle today, with the end of barrel bore sighter thing ..or what ever its called 
got me on paper...but after I checked again after an actual shooting zeroing, It was as I expected high, well should be as I zeroed an inch high at 100. But the final zero was wayyy off to the right from the zero the device gave before hand. So I suppose it goes to show that, yes they get you on paper but lie like cheap Jap watches compared to proper zeroing. But I will of course save the readings taken after the re-checking after zeroing with the device again.
got me on paper...but after I checked again after an actual shooting zeroing, It was as I expected high, well should be as I zeroed an inch high at 100. But the final zero was wayyy off to the right from the zero the device gave before hand. So I suppose it goes to show that, yes they get you on paper but lie like cheap Jap watches compared to proper zeroing. But I will of course save the readings taken after the re-checking after zeroing with the device again.
Brithunter
Well-Known Member
Out of interest have you checked to see how much side to side play there is with it on the muzzle?
that is probably why you so far off one side.
that is probably why you so far off one side.
There is a bit of play in th muzzle, anyway around that??
Brithunter
Well-Known Member
You can use a slip of thin paper. Reciepts from the supermarket work well. I cut a long oblong and carefully wrap it round the spud leaving a slot just wide enough for the tension spring and carefully slip it intot eh muzzle wrapped so. Removes most of the play also detects any burrs at muzzle as the paper will gall and tear on any burrs.
Cheers Brit I shall try that later and see the difference.
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