Buying second hand rifles.

macfarlane

Well-Known Member
Been a few posts recently with folk buying shot out basically not fit for purpose kind of rifles .
So what exactly should folk be doing ,looking for when buying second hand.I’ve bought a few second hand rifles and I’ve always been lucky with my purchases.
I know buying second hand can be a gamble cause of the issues we have legally doing a one for one can take weeks.
For a new shooter what’s the thing you look for when buying second hand.
 
That sounds perfect but how feasible would it be for most people selling, folk can be traveling hours to their permission at times .
I know of only a couple of gun shops in Scotland that have a range they could use for that purpose there’s probably more than than a couple but I’ve no idea where.
Wonder how many folk on here could / or would meet up with a potential buyer and let them actually have a shot or two to try a rifle .Definitely sounds a good idea.
 
stock - any alterations, cracks, splits, removal of pressure points, been bedded or free floated
barrel - threaded, if so, how do the threads look and the muzzle look, who did the work?
Moderator - always removed in storage?
bore - how does it look clean, really clean! at the muzzle, groves, lands, any pitting, throat worn/cracked?
mounts - factory drilled and tapped or has it been enlarged in the holes to bigger screws or changed to non-standard spacings
what is the length of pull
trigger - what weight is it, factory trigger or aftermarket/upgrade, if so, who fitted it. has the trigger ever been 'tuned' or sears stoned?
bolt face, pitted?
extraction, positive and throws the case, or dumps it weakly in the mag or just over the ejection port
any used brass available for inspection to see signs of pressue
headspace gauges go/no-go available?
has the owners ever tried to lap the locking lugs?
how does it feed? not only the first one or two, but the last!
obviously, how does it shoot
how many rounds (then double that number)
been reloaded for?
used for what purpose in its life
how worn does it look and feel, usually an indicator
are action screws marred/look like been taking in/out
 
I f you buy a rifle buy it from someone you trust, take someone with you that knows what they are looking at, or buy from someone who's reputation would go to sh#t if they sold you something not fit to shoot. Over the years I've bought rifles from auctions and luckily they have all been good. Also I've looked at rifles in gunshops that I would have user to tighten fence wire. I looked at a PH 308 as I was going to do some target shooting, l looked down the muzzle end and the first 9 inches of rifling was a mass of rust pits, when I mentioned it to the sales person they said ok but I know nothing about rifles and I don't know what you are talking about and put it back on the shelf. Oh well.
 
Barrel wear/bore condition is what you should be most worried about. Ask them to RFD to a competent, trusted gunsmith to borescope. If they refuse, it’s likely a turkey.
 
I'd find a gun shop that you consider trustworthy, obtain a guarantee that it's in whatever condition and accuracy and buy from them on the understanding that it's going back if it won't shoot straight. Also be realistic. If you're going to be stalking, you don't need it to be in perfect condition and shooting half inch groups.
If I were in Edinburgh, there's a dealer on here who enjoys a good reputation, I think something like Edinburgh rifles.
 
If you want to invest a little money to make sure the rifle is okay, buy a set of headspace gauges and a set of throat and muzzle erosion gauges. If you don't want to spend the money on gauges a simple way to check headspace is to have a spent case from a known good rifle chamber (or resized to SAAMI spec), place a piece of tape on the head of the case, insert it in the chamber and see if the bolt on the suspect rifle will close. If you feel little or no resistance on the bolt when closing add another piece of tape. If you can close the bolt with little or no resistance with two pieces of tape on the case head there is a problem. A quick test for muzzle wear is the bullet test. Mark where the ogive is on the bullet and insert into the muzzle, if the bullet goes in all the way to or beyond the ogive, there is a problem.
 
The last rifle I bought was an old Parker-Hale (surprise surprise!) which was well worn externally, but the original crown looked pristine. I figured it was a rifle that had been carried a lot but fired a little.
It seems to shoot deer pretty well, so I reckon I was near enough right. That's good enough for me.
 
And if you are a new stalker, before rushing out and buying a rifle try and go out stalking and shooting with friends, or go on paid stalks. Learn how to use a rifle and what works for you.

And also don’t be blinded by salesmen, target shooters and professionals. They will tell you that you need such and such etc etc. You don’t - thats for later.

What you need is a good simple rifle and optic combination that works for you. You don’t need to spend lots of coin on kit. Spend it on ammo learning to shoot well and on actual stalking.

And most important is a decent pair of binoculars and a good pair of boots if you are in rougher terrain.
 
People will post if they buy a ‘dud’ but I’d bet there’s loads of second hand rifles bought without any issue that you just don’t hear about.

I’ve only bought one new rifle,(HMR) out of 5 or 6.
 
That sounds perfect but how feasible would it be for most people selling, folk can be traveling hours to their permission at times .
I know of only a couple of gun shops in Scotland that have a range they could use for that purpose there’s probably more than than a couple but I’ve no idea where.
Wonder how many folk on here could / or would meet up with a potential buyer and let them actually have a shot or two to try a rifle .Definitely sounds a good idea.
Did exactly this with @09mutley05 today and bought the rifle off of him. I did borescope the rifle and then we went and shot it in the rain.

Bit of a drive wilts to Essex but worth it E48AD50B-B7EF-484D-83EA-BF10EF8DBAA7.jpeg
 
FWIW I’ve bought loads of secondhand rifles, only one has been a dud and that was because the seller lied through his teeth about the condition of the bore.

Bought on here as it happens!
 
I'd suggest going to an RFD who will show you the bore with a bore scope, and offer you a return if it's no good. .
I'd personally never buy a rifle that has been owned by a professional - let's face it, if it was still any good they'd keep it!
I'd avoid used rifles in certain calibres too, partly because of the above, and partly because they are likely to have been used with hot varmint rounds, so a .243 that's spent its life shooting 58grain v-max, or that keeper's favourite the 22250 that's accounted for hundreds of foxes and a similar number of Roe (where permissible)
 
Well I have been thinking about how to sell my old 243. Its had a lot of use and looks it, but it still shoot well enough for stalking purposes and would be ok for a first rifle. Certainly not something an advanced stalker would want.
So my thinking was to advertise it along with a test 100m zero group by me and then by the prospective buyer. If all good then we go take it stalking for an evening. Shoot anything you like thats in season with out any charge if they buy the gun.
 
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I burnt my .243 out so I had it blueprinted, rebarreled and chambered for 6.5 creed...... a Rem 700 action makes a great donor and I wouldn't wish a shot-out rifle on anyone!
Rem Creed.webp
 
I’ve got a 22-250 tikka 595 that must be nearly 20 years old, if zeroing will shoot a four shot string maybe 3 times to get it done, then it’s usually single shots at roe or fox after that. Has always been factory loads, no hot home loads and still shoots inch groups at 100 yards easily if I do my bit. If I was to sell it which I won’t I would be happy to shoot a group then let the buyer shoot a group to prove the rifles worth. Folk new to shooting rifles sometimes expect the rifle to compensate for their failings and blame the seller.
 
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