i bought one of these kits in a brown wooden box. it was rubbish.
the rods for rifle cleaning were really thin and buckled when pushing a patch down the .243 barrel.
i have bought a parker hale yellow rod, brush and jag in .284 i can use it in 7mm and 30-06 (i also got a seperate .30 cal brush). the rod for the 243 is a thinner one the same as .22 calibres. i use a pull through in the .243 with brush and patches.
i use them together with forrest borefoam. save your money, by a sturdy one piece rod with revolving handle. and the brush and jag you need.
bless his cotton socks put me on to Forrest bore foam ! simple to use and does a ronseal ! does as it says on the tin! did I say does ! (Buck fever here) I also use a rod one piece , but its **** for carting around the field , as it always finds a way up your nose when kneeling , that is where a trusty net curtain cord comes in handy , it removes any obstructions quickly , and my trusty bore snake is cool for a quick pull through!
I also concur that the 32 piece cleaning kit in a trusty box ! is pants available on E BAY , don't be tempted, wasted money.
I do not go for cleaning much but with my new 308 thought I would try and at least make an effort to try an start right and see how long I keep it up
My question is this though I bought one of the afore mention yellow expensive rods, and a .30 cal brush. It is a real effort almost having to hammer it to push it through down the barrel from the breech end, and also the plastic coating is stripped of as it catches the breech. When you pull it back up it is quite a lot less effort.
Is this normal or do you reckon my brush is to wide
If you are almost 'hammering' the thing through that simply isn't right. As Swampy says if you rod it through holding the handle it should slide up the bore with relative ease. Yes, you will feel some resistance, but unless you are Samson after a haircut, it shouldn't actually be hard or strenuous.
The purists will say that you should detach the brush after each stroke and not draw it back to the breech as that apparently can bring gunge back into the chamber & breech. A bore guide will help mitigate that problem. However it is one benefit of using a pull through - it only goes in one direction (which should be breech to muzzle!), so no crud into the chamber. The apparent downside is if you don't draw the p-t straight out the muzzle it can wear the crown with adverse effect on accuracy. However, I have never quite understood how drawing a piece of oily hemp over steel could make that much difference to the steel - unless you did it real quick about a zillion times. :???:
Cheers guys.. Umm I reckon its a bit iffy as I really do have to bash it through litterally in fact .. I will try another brush I do have some 303 pull throughs of my dads so will see if the old mans ways are better
I have always used a boresnake on my 12 bore but never seemed very struck on the rifle ones .. are they any good?
Legal, a cheap and easy way to make a pull through is to use the plastic cable from a strimmer. Cut yourself a length of the stuff, cutting on the angle on one end to turn it into a point, well chisel shape. Tie a knot in the other end then shove the pointy end through a patch feed it through from the chamber end and then just pull it through. Ideal to keep rolled up in your pocket when you are out, just in case you have to clear the barrel. Plus it is usually bright yellow or some other garish colour and you are unlikely to lose it if you drop it.
I use bog paper on A Parker Hale rod and jag. I sheet fold double with a little bit torn of the end works well in my .308 . I dip said jag/paper in solvent and Swab out barrel. Leave to stand for a while . Swab out with solvent again and dry with clean bog paper. Bog paper is cheap always available and handy if you get caught short while cleaning your weapons.
Was thinking about investing in a carbon fibre rod any body use them?