Custom 6.5 creedmoor DRAMA!

[rem284]

First contact the guy who done them work and discuss

It's a process of check everything logically and in isolation and eliminating each item as you go.

If you think the mod might be an issue then try shooting it without mod on. If you still have the same problem then it's not the mod

Check all screws on stock and when the stock is off de-grease bedding and screws.

Scope:- check screws on rings, de-grease reassemble. If you have another proven rifle available try it on that and try the scope on from the proven rifle on the suspect rifle. I prefer the bed picatinny rails on with epoxy resin.

If you are checking a rifle at the target then make sure the barrel is clean every time, at least you know that is as consistent as possible.

When you find out what it is then let us know so we all can learn

 

[Selous]

Has the barrel been thoroughly cleaned back to bare steel? The reason I ask is that I have seen a new cut rifled match grade barrel do exactly the same thing…. Bug holes that then deteriorated to nauseating 1.5 to 2 inch patterns. Everything was checked and it got to the point of calling it a bad barrel and starting again. As a last ditch thing, the smith scoped the barrel and gave the barrel a deep clean and a lapping using abrasive bore cleaners. The accuracy was transformed massively and it became the 1/4 MOA rifle we wanted it to be. We put it down to the barrel not having been lapped quite enough after it was rifled which caused it to foul very quickly. We are now 4 years down the line and it still bug holes.
If you suspect the moderator, just shoot a few groups without it in place.

 

[ejg]

With a remmy:
Remove rifle from the stock and check if the recoil lug pocket in the stock is free of any debris. Check if there are no bits stuck on the bedding surface. This will not be the reason for the big jump but is part of the checking...
next check if the barrel is tight in the action...
check if the action screws clear the bolt front and back
check if the pica rail can move using a bit of force
check mounts, fit mounts to rail with oil between, let it find it's natural position and tighten well
maybe even try a completely different scope and mounts
try without mod

I think the most likely cause is somewhere pica rail upwards.

edi

 

[Danny25790]

Has the barrel been thoroughly cleaned back to bare steel? The reason I ask is that I have seen a new cut rifled match grade barrel do exactly the same thing…. Bug holes that then deteriorated to nauseating 1.5 to 2 inch patterns. Everything was checked and it got to the point of calling it a bad barrel and starting again. As a last ditch thing, the smith scoped the barrel and gave the barrel a deep clean and a lapping using abrasive bore cleaners. The accuracy was transformed massively and it became the 1/4 MOA rifle we wanted it to be. We put it down to the barrel not having been lapped quite enough after it was rifled which caused it to foul very quickly. We are now 4 years down the line and it still bug holes.
If you suspect the moderator, just shoot a few groups without it in place.

Starting to think that you may be on to something in regards to the barrel lapping, I'm currently shooting now, I checked all screws mounts and have stripped it all down and put it back together. I've ch checked the scope tracking and it seems to be ok.
BUT now I am having a heavy bolt lift which is a sign of high pressure right? But I am using factory federal ammunition this time round so surely I shouldn't have any pressure signs whatsoever? Edit: only on some rounds am I finding signs of pressure, at this point I am completely baffled

 

[paul o']

head space barrel lose ? strip down the bolt then take a new case add one thickness of sellotape 2tho eack time until this becomes more than thumb pressure to close , with x times tape added it will give a fair understanding of headspace or take it back and get the pair of gages on it . Will the fired case go back in without a crush fit ?

 

[paul o']

Another though Rem 700 front rail screw its not to long is it ! look at the bolt lungs see if there are any marks that should not be there ?

 

[Danny25790]

head space barrel lose ? strip down the bolt then take a new case add one thickness of sellotape 2tho eack time until this becomes more than thumb pressure to close , with x times tape added it will give a fair understanding of headspace or take it back and get the pair of gages on it . Will the fired case go back in without a crush fit ?

I'll see if my friend has a guage and if not then I'll try the tape idea(love these lil tips) as for the cases of the rounds that had a heavy bolt lift, no they do not want to be chambered again, they require way to much force to close the bolt

 

[paul o']

Feel its time to return to the maker bud . if you have a case gage see what the numbers say . you could pop into a well known gunmaker in Town well just outside Tunbridge there known to build a few rifles for the forces and are very nice folks .

 

[Danny25790]

Another though Rem 700 front rail screw its not to long is it ! look at the bolt lungs see if there are any marks that should not be there ?

The front action screw sits flush and I can't feel anything else that would obstruct the bolt, the action on the rifle unloaded is smooth and cycles really well

 

[Danny25790]

Feel its time to return to the maker bud . if you have a case gage see what the numbers say .

That's what I'm thinking. I've got a guage at home I'll see what it comes up with. Is there any reason why it would show pressure with one factory round and not another ?

 

[paul o']

So many factors best bet take it to the doctors before you waste time and dosh on it feller been there done that lol good luck thanks for your service guys .

 

[HandB]

Starting to think that you may be on to something in regards to the barrel lapping, I'm currently shooting now, I checked all screws mounts and have stripped it all down and put it back together. I've ch checked the scope tracking and it seems to be ok.
BUT now I am having a heavy bolt lift which is a sign of high pressure right? But I am using factory federal ammunition this time round so surely I shouldn't have any pressure signs whatsoever? Edit: only on some rounds am I finding signs of pressure, at this point I am completely baffled

Pressure signs with factory ammo is a bad sign. It's time to stop shooting it and take it back to the maker for a refund imho.

 

[Danny25790]

Just spoken to the gunsmith and he said he's happy to take it back and find out what's going on with it as he's now curious what's happening maybe he was being a mong but as long as he fixed it I'm ok with that.
Thank you all very much for your help and advice.

 

[paul o']

Let us know the outcome

 

[MarinePMI]

Carbon ring in the throat?

 

[1894]

That's what I'm thinking. I've got a guage at home I'll see what it comes up with. Is there any reason why it would show pressure with one factory round and not another ?

Heat

 

[Dr. Strangelove]

Any word on this, @Danny25790 ?

 

[User00026]

Bedding error? Front action screw bottoms out potentially. Could also just be a shjite barrel job

 

[Danny25790]

So the rifle is back in with the Smith who has kindly taken time out of his weekend to rectify the issue, I had taken the scope and the rail back off of the rifle and inspected it closer and I found that there was something not quite right with the rail, turns out it was a manufacturers error and the base was paper thin where the screws sit and it had some how just bent/domed the rail which caused a small pivot point for the rail to rock on but was so slight that I hadn't noticed it the first time round. The gunsmith has said he'll have it back to me by Monday and will check everything over to make sure is running smoothly and if there are any dramas just let him know and he'll square it away.

 

[Dr. Strangelove]

Sounds like it’s sorted - glad to hear it. Also good that it wasn’t the ‘smith at fault!