Fixing sling stud
- Thread starter Jamesy13
- Start date
Have a look on line for a stud with a nut which you can inset on the inside of the fore end below the barrel. I wouldn’t want to trust a filler to retain the stud if the original wood didn’t manage it.
Bottom left of your post click on the word “Report” and you can ask admin to move it to another forum.
Alan
Would you still use an apoxy?
Thanks for the info, would you mind explaining more as I’m not 100% understanding
Ronin
Distinguished Member
I’ll post an image that should make things clear later
Just done something similar with the front - it’s always the front - stud on an air rifle. But rather than use a steel plate I opened up the hole that recieves the captive nut by half the forend depth with a forstner bit, filled half full with Devcon and then drilled a suitably undersized hole to receive the nut with interference fit. I then poured more Devcon over the nut and stud and when cured sanded back to level of inner forend wood.
If you figure you’ll want to remove the stud at some future point omit the final stage.
K
As others have said, the best fore end studs have a nut on the inside to provide strength. Make sure the nut is recessed so it mates with the wood in a flat way and doesn't touch the barrel. For belt and braces approach you can coat everything with epoxy. The slow setting 24hr stuff is strongest. This approach does require removing the action from the stock, but allows you to check and clean under there. I (lightly) wipe the hidden bits of metal with gun oil and the hidden bits of wood with boiled linseed oil.
I have twice had to sort out shocking accuracy issues on rifles where this had been done. On the first, the new screw stud poked through into the barrel channel and was tight against the underside of the barrel. On the second, the original recessed nut was still in situ, but rattling around loose in its hole and contacting the underside of the barrel. Both were a simple fix.
As @FISH BOY so rightly says it's important to check, so always remove the rifle from its woodwork to do this kind of job.
(Incidentally, I wouldn't carry it a yard if held together with matchsticks!)
I got something similar to Hollow Forend Bipod Adapter - Gun Stock Bipod Stud off the shelf at SGC.
No I would rely on the metal. But then I am a metalworker. The epoxy wouldn't add any strength to the nut and bolt, the steel is doing it all...without epoxy you can undo it easily if you need to. If you are worried it might come loose I would use a dab of locktite. The serrated nuts in the illustrations below are so that you can drill a inner diameter hole and pull the nut in to the wood and the serrations bite in and prevent it turning. If you use a standard hex nut you would have to inlet it with a chisel.
Alan
Amazon product ASIN B06X9V27HP
QD Sling Swivel Base Studs - Machine & Wood Bipod Screw Threads
Installing Sling Swivel Studs on a Gun Stock - AllOutdoor.com
Dad’s old 30-06 “SpringMaus” is essentially a ’98 Mauser action with a barrel from an ’03 Springfield. (Photo © Russ Chastain) When it comes to hunting rifles, I tend to experience cycles of nostalgia; I will be happy for a few seasons toting the plain-and-basic 308 which has been dropping deer...
www.alloutdoor.com
Thanks for the info. I will try that and see how I get on, might have the cut the threaded shaft a little shorter as the forend on a 527 lux is really thin and narrow.No I would rely on the metal. But then I am a metalworker. The epoxy wouldn't add any strength to the nut and bolt, the steel is doing it all...without epoxy you can undo it easily if you need to. If you are worried it might come loose I would use a dab of locktite. The serrated nuts in the illustrations below are so that you can drill a inner diameter hole and pull the nut in to the wood and the serrations bite in and prevent it turning. If you use a standard hex nut you would have to inlet it with a chisel.
Alan
Amazon product ASIN B06X9V27HP
QD Sling Swivel Base Studs - Machine & Wood Bipod Screw Threads
www.ant-supplies.uk
Installing Sling Swivel Studs on a Gun Stock - AllOutdoor.com
Dad’s old 30-06 “SpringMaus” is essentially a ’98 Mauser action with a barrel from an ’03 Springfield. (Photo © Russ Chastain) When it comes to hunting rifles, I tend to experience cycles of nostalgia; I will be happy for a few seasons toting the plain-and-basic 308 which has been dropping deer...www.alloutdoor.com
My 527 is a bit of a frankestein as I do like modification! I've just fitted some of these quick detach cups fore and aft which are screwed and glued in.
Ive literally hung off them and they don't give. I've done the same on my 452 in .22 and 452 in .17 so one sling does the lot. It appeals to my OCD.......
ATB
Deano
Ive literally hung off them and they don't give. I've done the same on my 452 in .22 and 452 in .17 so one sling does the lot. It appeals to my OCD.......
ATB
Deano
Thanks for your reply. How do they work with a bipod?
They are totally separate. I drilled mine into the side of the wooden stock, that way the rifle lays flat on my back. That frees up the bottom of the forestock to install a a more sturdy bipod attachment stud or a section of picitinny or other bipod mount point. I never liked attaching the sling to the bipod as it inevitable gets tangled at the worst possible moment. I've also had one work loose (bad admin on my behalf) and you then get a bipod in the back of the head as your prized rifle plummets to earth.....
Similar threads
