Full-Length Resizing Without Lube?

Dillon (for one) offer FL solid carbide sizing dies for a few bottle necked rifle cartridges such as .223 Rem & .308 Win - at a price. Although they could be used without lube they are still intended to be used with lubed cases - the carbide is to give wear resistance when the dies are used on power operated progressive reloading machines kicking out 1000+ rounds per hour - all day long - week after week.

For normal sporting needs (such as the OP has) lubing cases is such an easy task (as is lube removal after sizing) that it’s hardly worth a thought.
 
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So, lube is needed. Yep. What is used though? Compared with other lubricants, specific reloading lube isn't too cheap. Do people use alternative products?
I paid maybe 2.50 USD for RCBS case lube even now I am sure it cost less than a beer in some bar.
 
Lyman also now offer FL rifle sizing dies in carbide (sort of), but they still recommend lubrication. I suspect they (Lyman) are the ones that make/made the Dillon dies TBH. I could be completely wrong, but that is my suspicion based on the ongoing competitive relationship that has developed between Lyman and Dillon. Especially since Lyman has entered to progressive, automated, reloading market. Methinks that is why Dillon is having such a hard time getting their own carbide dies in stock; I think they had to switch suppliers, and it's caused them problems.
 
So the chain oil for my motorbike and that stuff in the bedside cabinet won't do then?

I hope you don’t keep both in the bedroom and God forbid you get them mixed up ……..hey ho……..whatever floats your boat…….maybe chain oil is the way to go…….l don’t have a motorbike but could be that’s where I’m going wrong …..thanks for your advice.
 
So, lube is needed. Yep. What is used though? Compared with other lubricants, specific reloading lube isn't too cheap. Do people use alternative products?
I am necking down my mega supply of .308 Wins to .243 Win as I do not have a .308 rifle and although I have the Lee lube I gave Barbour thornproof dressing a try today and it worked.
 
That mixture Dr. Strangelove sold is excellent.
I put enough cases in a plastic freezer bag then a few squirts of DSL elixer and roll the contents about by hand for some seconds.
Empty into container and allow to go dry ish.
Fl size without button then mandrel to get required neck tension.
No irregularities in shoulders or anywhere else.
Finish with a quick Fairy liquid wash in sonic cleaner.
Ken.
 

Yes Dillon make carbide die sets for .223rem and .308win but you still need to lube the cases. This is what the blurb says-

For high volume users, such as commercial reloaders, law enforcement agencies, and high power or service rifle competitors, we also offer .223 and .308 full-length carbide sizing die. Lubrication is still required, but the increased scratch resistance and die longevity of carbide are of great benefit to these groups of users.
So law enforcement agencies really load their own ammunition?
 
Lanolin is wool fat. From sheep wool. The stuff you buy at the cosmetics shop as lanolin hand cream may contain lanolin but only a limited percentage and mixed with other products. It is not the same!

Actual lanolin is quite sticky and when I used it for commercial bullet swaging I always mixed it 50/50 with pure castor oil. This made it less sticky but still sticky enough to cling to where it had been applied to the lead slugs.

I have used RCBS lube which is clear and semi liquid, old Lyman Ezy-Lube, Imperial Lube and modern Lyman lube. ALL WORK. Some are less messy than others. Lanolin based lube being a fat...a grease...needed washing in detergent (just like dirty dishes) to remove it.

Some detergent if standard washing up liquid contains salt. Not the best friend of brass cases. So modern non lanolin based lube that can be removed by washing in just hot water or wiping each case with a cloth after sizing is better.

Cases can also be "de-lubed" by tumbling in standard tumbling media. Except of course the media then becomes contaminated with the lube it has "removed" from the cases.

But yes in standard steel dies high powered rifle cases need lubing at the "web" which is the area just above the base where the walls are thickest especially carefully as well as the case neck and sides of the case. It is the "web" area that gets stuck in the die if not lubed adequately.

The shoulders should not be lubed else you get lubrication dents in the shoulders. As others say carbide rifle dies for other than "straight wall" cases exist in 5.56mm NATO and 7.62x51 (aka .223 Remington and .308 Winchester). Also in .30 M1 Carbine and likely .30/06. And the 9mm Parabellum which is a tapered case actually.

But for the sport shooter loading a hundred rounds or less a session they not a good use of his budget. When I shot the .303 Enfield competitively* I would process and reload three hundred rounds a session and still lubed by hand and never felt need for a (non existent) carbide .303 sizing die...so save your money!

* My FAC for .303 ammunition in the 1980s was acquire three hundred possess five hundred or somesuch number.
 
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