But he's already found out the stator isnt charging correctly. Batteries if properly maintained can last a hell of a long time. Its usually a charging issue which causes them to dry out and fry in the first place.
help diagnosing quad battery/alternator issues
- Thread starter muddy42
- Start date
10 years is a hell of a long time for a battery with a 5-8 year in service life. You cant prevent the ageing cycle of a battery...merely prolong its life by correct treatment. However lots of other factors, number of cycles, depth of cycle, recharge efficiency, temp etc etc etc. that will play its part.
Thank you Mr Hendrx. Yes I was copying that exact video - its a very similar model of quad aswell.
- it looks like my stator is producing 15v ac not >18v. Is that enough? Can stator's be tuned up like starter motors, polish brushes etc?
- On the rec reg test, I tested each of the two terminal exactly as the guy in the video:
-forward test. negative side of multimeter to positive terminal and put positive side of multimeter to phase 1,2 and 3 - all show c.400ohmns. And check the double check in the reverse direction, nothing, no continuity. As it should because diodes only allow electricity to flow in one direction.
-positive side of multimeter to negative terminal and put positive side of multimeter to phase 1,2,3 - all show c.400ohmns. And check the double check in the reverse direction, nothing, no continuity.
The chap in the video had one dead phase and said his rec reg needed replacing. My understanding is that there is an issue if one of the tests was different from the others meaning a diode was burned out. What I mean is its binary, either its working or its not and mine is good? do you agree
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So you've done it exactly as in the video and all were well? Usually when they start dropping lower than 18 it causes issues and there isnt enough current to charge. You've confirmed that even whilst revving, there's nothing going in to the battery? Also test to see if the AC rises on higher RPM from the stator wiring
Yes, I think everything is OK with the rec regulator. Power is flowing in the forward directions from either the positive and negative terminals and not in the reverse. My understanding of AC power and diodes is that its binary, either its working or its not.
Regarding the stator wiring, I managed to apply a bit of rev with a bungie cord - 19/20v.
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I'm temped to see if the stator and rec regulator will charge the new battery when it arrives? could it be that a battery gets depleted to the extent it won't accept the low charge delivered by the quad but will accept the slightly higher charge from my battery charger? I will be careful with the new battery, I'll take it off if the voltage doesn't rise when the ignition is on, that way it won't ever get dangerously low.
OK so slight update here.
I added a bit more rev and I can get the 3 phases from the stator up to 33v across the phases.
I tried something new this time. I reconnected the wiring from the stator, switched my multimeter to DV voltage and tested the output side of the rectifier regulator. Even with revs this only showed 12.3v
Maybe the rec regulator does need replacing then.
I redid the static test again to check this abuse hadn't blown anything. All good.
I added a bit more rev and I can get the 3 phases from the stator up to 33v across the phases.
I tried something new this time. I reconnected the wiring from the stator, switched my multimeter to DV voltage and tested the output side of the rectifier regulator. Even with revs this only showed 12.3v
Maybe the rec regulator does need replacing then.
I redid the static test again to check this abuse hadn't blown anything. All good.
I’ve owned a 2010 TRX420 for 10 years now and spookily, I’ve had a voltage regulator go on me and a battery! I expect only a handful of years out of a battery to be honest and when I had similar charging issues with mine and convinced myself it was the stator, I saw it wasn’t a quick or cheap job to replace the alternator so tried the regulator first - bingo. I have a USB outlet on my “aux” rail above the Speedo that shows the charging voltage and you should be up to 14v whilst running. Other thing I do is to add a fly lead and when the quad is parked up, it has a middle aisle of Lidl motorcycle trickle charger connected.
Very smart bike!
People do say that TRX420s have a strong reputation for rebuilding etc.
Judging by the crustiness under the old battery, I think it must have been there for ten years.
I have ordered a new regulator and a battery.
Hopefully that does the trick, but if the charging voltage is still a bit low, trickle charging could be an option. I am nervous about replacing the stator, it looks like a large job and a lot of effort for such an old bike.
Let us know how you get on. That should do the trick
will do.
My in-laws Honda TRX 350 (farm use) quad had a similar charging issue as yours.
After extensive testing by myself, the fault was traced to a damaged wiring loom cable from the output of the rectifier to the battery.
Everything else was working ok, but the charge output was simply not getting to the battery.
Apparently quite a common fault on older Hondas, where the wiring loom passes along the metal framework below the detachable seat and can suffer from chafing.
After extensive testing by myself, the fault was traced to a damaged wiring loom cable from the output of the rectifier to the battery.
Everything else was working ok, but the charge output was simply not getting to the battery.
Apparently quite a common fault on older Hondas, where the wiring loom passes along the metal framework below the detachable seat and can suffer from chafing.
Regulator/Rectifiers can and are a right pain in the backside....most, if not all are solid state and impossible to rewind/rewire. They also seem to go without any obvious cause.
Best plan would be 1) Get a good/new one (or borrow a good one) and fit it to see if your problem is solved. 2) Treat the quad to new battery and if you haven't already done it, try keeping it on a trickle charge (optimate or something similar).
Hopefully not a major issue as long as the stator isn't goosed, then it might be a bit more expensive. Only other likely problem is an intermittent earthing problem or rusty switches.
Best plan would be 1) Get a good/new one (or borrow a good one) and fit it to see if your problem is solved. 2) Treat the quad to new battery and if you haven't already done it, try keeping it on a trickle charge (optimate or something similar).
Hopefully not a major issue as long as the stator isn't goosed, then it might be a bit more expensive. Only other likely problem is an intermittent earthing problem or rusty switches.
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So I replaced the rectifier and battery having cleaned up the connections and charged the battery. 12.8v with no ignition, the voltage dipped during starting, then back to 12.7v. If I apply revs the voltage doesn't really climb.
This still doesn't feel like its charging. I will keep trying to diagnose this - checking the wiring harness and I believe there are some tests you can perform on the plug just before the stator itself.
So I replaced the rectifier and battery having cleaned up the connections and charged the battery. 12.8v with no ignition, the voltage dipped during starting, then back to 12.7v. If I apply revs the voltage doesn't really climb.
This still doesn't feel like its charging. I will keep trying to diagnose this - checking the wiring harness and I believe there are some tests you can perform on the plug just before the stator itself.
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
Alternator's need to be energised. The control of the alternator output is regulated via it's energising supply.
Any break in that supply will stop any out put.
Also many controllers do switch the alternator completely off in the interest of taking load of the engine to conserve fuel and save the planet.
Any break in that supply will stop any out put.
Also many controllers do switch the alternator completely off in the interest of taking load of the engine to conserve fuel and save the planet.
Sorry I'm not sure I follow you. I thought working stators produce a small charge all the time the time the engine is running - making the voltage increases by about 1v when you start the ignition (say 12.6v to 13.6v)
If I start the engine up, let everything settle then switch the lights on, the voltage seems to drop from 12.65 to 12.4v? Again rev doesn't seem to make much difference. This feels like drain not charge.
I've attached a photo. I've been cleaning the wiring in anticipation of tackling the wiring harness and that round plug at the bottom, which is the last plug before the stator.
its a 2009 Honda 420trx - Im not sure it has much in the way of electronic controllers
Attachments
thanks, where is the CDI unit?
Are you sure that's the diagram for pre-2013 trx420s?
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