Help Needed with Moderator

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paul k

Well-Known Member
I have a variation for a moderator for my .243 Steyr Mannlicher and have a quandry. It is a particularly nice looking and straight shooting rifle and I don't want to mess it up. Is it possible to cut it for a moderator and to use the piece that is cut off to screw back on the barrel if the moderator is not being used?

Or, is it better to sell it and buy another already cut for a mod?

Any other suggestions?

Jager SA

Well-Known Member
Are you having cut down is the first question, if its a barley twist type barrel it might be quite difficult to match up. If its not then the piece (Providing it a solid piece) might be able to be machine as a thread protector.


Well-Known Member
Paul, I had exactly the same quandry. Very nice little Mannlicher in 222rem which really needed a can.

I also wanted to use the off-cut from the barrel for a thread cap, but this didn't work out as the taper on the barrel was too steep.

I also contemplated trading the rifle in for a new threaded rifle. Decided this was a crap idea as this rifle is very accurate and what you would loose on the trade-in will more than pay for a top quality threading job. I will only say be sure and get the cutting / recrowning / threading done by a proper gunsmith who knows his stuff, don't be tempted by a cheap "back-street" machinist.

Steve Kershaw did this work in a 48 hour turn-around, Mod is a PES T12 Scout:



paul k

Well-Known Member
That's really helpful guys - thank you.

My rifle looks like a .243 version of yours Claret and that's a really neat job that Steve did on it, exactly what I'm looking for.

My rifle not only looks nice but shoots a really tight group and never wanders when the barrel gets hot. I don't want to do anything that will mess it up.

Thanks again.


Well-Known Member
Paul, I don't know if you have ever had your Mannlicher apart. My dealer stripped mine down prior to shipping to Steve Kershaw. Mine is aluminium piller bedded with a forend pressure tip. The quality of the inletting and the internal finish of the stock is absolutely first class.

Put that together with a good barrel and a stiff action and you have a recipe for a very accurate rifle.

Mine never wanders as it heats, but I try not and let it get too hot.

Heym SR20

Well-Known Member
That looks a really nice job with the PES T12.

I am having the same quandry with my Heym SR20. With the PES T12 how much extra length are you adding and how much extra weight?

I do shoot reasonably close to urban areas and also livestock, but my 243 doesn't make that much noise - certainly quieter than a 12 bore and a lot less than a friends sako 243 - but mine does have a 24 inch barrel whereas his has a 22inch.

This year I have fired 6 shots on my ground so not exactly much noise polluting.


Well-Known Member
Heym, the PES T12 on my rifle is the "Scout" which is somewhat shorter over all - 280mm, than the standard T12. It still has the 12 baffles, with 120mm in fornt of the muzzle and 160 back along the barrel. I think the standard T12 is 360mm.

Weight is about 500gm.

I had Kershaw knock 3" of my barrel (was 24") when he was threading, so overall length is only increased by 2".

It has obviously moved the centre of balance well forward, but I think it still handles very well.

Accuracy is as good as always.


Distinguished Member

I recently did a blued Prohunter for a chap that wanted the barrel shortening and re threading.

The job is easy (with the correct equipment) however if you wanted a barrel end cap making with the cut off section it could be done, but one has to bear in mind that the end cap will not be the same diameter as the section of barrel at the shoulder (rear of the thread) so there would be a step of some kind - not my own idea of a neat job.

Better to make an end cap from CM or SS and finish to same diameter as shoulder or slightly larger and knurl IMHO.

A bit excessive having to change rifles for the sake of getting one with a crew cut barrel !
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