How do you reload for a straight pull rifle?

Paul 600

Well-Known Member
The other thread got me thinking. With a traditional turn bolt you can feel hard extraction and signs of pressure. How do you tell with a straight pull system?
 
The other thread got me thinking. With a traditional turn bolt you can feel hard extraction and signs of pressure. How do you tell with a straight pull system?
same thing, they still have to turn the lugs free and extract the case (yes I know some brands use expanding lugs that don't turn, but extraction still has to occur)
 
In my experience I always full length resized with no adverse effects on accuracy but this was just .223

no probs with extraction but cases are all tumbled and shiney
 
I load for my turn bolts the same as for my blaser, still only neck size, never caused as issue.
As for working up I don't know as no book load caused a problem, but the most accurate load came at the mid point, so I called that good enough.

Neil. :)
 
I load for a 7.5x55 and I always full length resize. I have not had any problems so far and some of my cases are onto there 6th reload
 
Not all straight pulls are the same in camming for extraction. I didn't have a problem with the Mauser M96 Slide Bolt in 6.5x55 that I had. I did re-size some cases for the Schmidt-Rubin Model 1889 that I had the half dozen cases to fill a clip worked through the action just fine. The sized cases made up into dummy rounds went with the rifle to it's new home.

Size the cases properly an really there should be no problems.
 
Thanks NS, I wasn't referring to the drag bag, I was asking about the rucksack. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
 
I neck size for my Schmidts and Ross rifles if I'm shooting light cast bullet loads. For heavy loads I FL resize. In autoloading rifles I Small Base resize, always. (308, 30-06, and .223) ~Muir
 
I'll give you a hint and tip here - never, ever, buy a cammo rucksack. If you can buy a bright blue one as there is very little in nature that is bright blue. If you end up with a cammo one, or a green one as I recently have, then attach lots of brightly coloured stuff to it. :-)

Must be a story here, so come on and spill the beans ?

Neil. :)
 
Must be a story here, so come on and spill the beans ?

No story, yet, honestly but I probably spend 100+ days per year with my rucksack in some remote spot and losing it would be both, literally, dangerous and also deeply disturbing as half my life is in it. Specially if I'm fishing on ground like in the photo below where I might drop the rucksack after the walk out and then wander up the river for a mile and then nip over the ridge to a loch I know is there and...

Since I've recently acquired a new green rucksack I've covered it in red and white tape. I must look like a loony, but at least I'm a loony who can find all his stuff!

 
What schmidt do you have k31?
how often do you full resize the schmidt?
would a small base resize be ok for a k31, assuming you can get the die.
I neck size for my Schmidts and Ross rifles if I'm shooting light cast bullet loads. For heavy loads I FL resize. In autoloading rifles I Small Base resize, always. (308, 30-06, and .223) ~Muir
 
sorry no boys its a MTP Multicam 38 Litre N.I. Patrol Pack but mine was free:tiphat:
MTP-PATROL-2.jpg





 
What schmidt do you have k31?
how often do you full resize the schmidt?
would a small base resize be ok for a k31, assuming you can get the die.

I have 1911's and K31's both.
SB dies would be fine for the K-31. Many rifles don't need them and work fine with Standard FL sizers. The SB die just sizes a bit farther down the case to the extractor groove. I like to think of them as returning the brass to factory spec. I am on this kick to make, basically, factory ammo: ammo that will work reasonably well in all rifles of a given chambering. (30-06, 308, 223 in the works now) The SB dies are used at every reloading. It's just like chambering factory ammo. I'm sure SB sized 7.5x55 would go in and out of any Schmidt clickety-clack with no hangups. ~Muir
 
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