How to sharpen Knife?

Boarboy

Well-Known Member
I got distracted! and was looking at some knife sharpening videos on you tube... some people pull the knife across the stone in one direction only, and I have seen some people doing a round and round kind of grinding action. I was always told to pull the knife across the stone in one direction, and repeat. What is the correct way to sharpen?
 

Eric the Red

Well-Known Member
For me, those motions are dependent on the grade of stone being used, and whether one is honing or polishing - just the way I do it - I don't think there's a right or wrong answer - just what works for you.
 

Woodsmoke

Well-Known Member
I stopped using a stone a long time ago. I favour a diamond hone a friend gave me now. No matter what method you use though, if you can get a decent edge I'd just stick with it
 

paul o'

Well-Known Member
i use Blade tech on the silly cheap mora blades as this gives a good cutting edge for a short time and keep one on a clip, but i hone and paste n strop on the good ones ,if all your skills let you down get a blade jig set it up use it leave the setting alone if it gives you a good working blade.
 

2130martin

Well-Known Member
As said earlier,what works for you.......I find that single passes rather than circular motions make it less likely to roll the angle and ending up rounding the edge off!!
 

Southern

Well-Known Member
You want to move the knife blade across the stone as if you were slicing and onion skin off the top of it, never in reverse.
Pick your angle, like 15 degrees, hold it steady, slice with the straight part of the blade, and as you get about halfway down the stone, start pulling the blade off the stone and inclining its angle of attack with your wrist, to keep the path of the curve of the blade perpendicular to the tangent line of the curve ( in other words, the stone is passing straight under the edge at all times, removing stock the same way, from hilt to tip).
 
I use a double sided DMT diamond file. Trick is to hold the knife on the kitchen side and move the file not the knife. Use a permanent marker on the bevel of the blade to see your angle of attack is right but means the file does get blocked somewhat and you have to rinse it. Gets you started on a new knife till you get used to it though.
 

hybridfiat

Well-Known Member
Knife bevels.jpegReally the one principle dictates how a knife should be sharpened and that is a flat bevel all the way to the edge.
If you round the edge the knife will lose the edge fast.
The half flat is more practical for hunting. You may have to restore the flat once in a while which means putting that nice polished blade flat on the coarse stone and giving it curry. But doing that will leave you with less to do when creating the cutting angle.
The Scandi I've never used.
The full flat is a boning edge (I was a boner many years ago) and will deliver a very keen cutting edge for a brief time with the risk of chipping. It requires regular brush ups and daily (in the boning room) flattening to keep the high flat angle.
The rounded edge is found on Japanese swords (Nihonto, of which I have a few) It is a very strong edge and resists chipping when smashing through bone and encountering other swords or armour. However it isn't meant for constant use. The Japanese polisher can achieve a razor edge but the apprenticeship is 7 years.
 

private fraser

Well-Known Member
+1 on the diamond hone and just in one direction.
I read a description of a good knife edge, something like.... two equal angles tapering to infinity.
Great...if you can manage it.
 

hybridfiat

Well-Known Member
If you have a lot of meat to remove from the blade to get the initial flat sides I'd suggest getting a piece of plate glass 6-10mm thick (thicker the better) about 600mm long or more and gluing some 120 grit wet and dry to it. This gives you a nice looong flat surface to get the steel off. I use a double sheet of 8mm x 200mm x 1m with 120 (spray contact) glued one side and 300 the other to fettle wood planes, chisels and knives. Always draw the blade and when done use an aluminium oxide fine stone, drawing it edge first to finish.
The boners at the abattoir where I worked always drew the blade to finish, never pushing it except to remove excess material.
 

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