Landig carcass / loading rail extension

[Tom_Ov]

Seriously considering asking a local fabricator to make me a longer loading rail for my Landig fridge. The carcass rail as it is works well, but the headspace above the fridge is limited - if I had a longer rail, I could install an electric hoist to lift fallow up onto the rail and slide them into the fridge.

Extension would need to be considerably longer, increasing length from circa 80 cm to 170 cm.

I can't see that the extra length would cause any issues with leverage causing the fridge to topple forwards - the fridge is on four stable feet and the loading rail would be suspended at the non fridge end (fixed to a beam via chain). I'm not sure what thickness the existing stainless tube is (fairly thin) but to my mind, it should be fine for fallow.

Welcome thoughts, views and ideas!

 

[VSS]

How about having a completely separate 2nd rail attached to the ceiling outside the fridge and directly in line with it, and then a short removable section that's used to link the two together when the door is open?

 

[Tom_Ov]

How about having a completely separate 2nd rail attached to the ceiling outside the fridge and directly in line with it, and then a short removable section that's used to link the two together when the door is open?

Yes, I did think about another rail but I don't want it there permanently (low ceiling - old domestic garge).

 

[VSS]

Yes, I did think about another rail but I don't want it there permanently (low ceiling - old domestic garge).

Make the 2nd rail free-standing then, on a frame. Even better, put wheels on the frame so you can move carcasses about easily.

 

[Tom_Ov]

Make the 2nd rail free-standing then, on a frame. Even better, put wheels on the frame so you can move carcasses about easily.

Something to ponder - need to be conscious of space.

 

[NoIDeer]

Install the winch away from the fridge and have just a pulley over the fridge door to lift the carcass? If you are really clever you put a second pulley on the hook end to get a mechanical advantage when lifting heavy stuff.

 

[Woodsy]

Here’s what I did after putting my back out badly lifting fallow in to my double door drinks chiller.

Photos fairly self explanatory.

Electric winch on sliding bar above and in front of chiller so I can load in to either/both sides of chiller.

Loop of rope around winch supports far end of sliding bar, with other end fixed in to bar section in chiller (with fitted length of hardwood) and held by straps with carabiner for quick release. Deer raised, sliding bar put in place below it. Deer lowered on to sliding bar. Hook then removed from gambrel and attached to small loop of paracord on end of sliding bar. Then lifted to achieve an angle high makes sliding deer in to chiller easy. Carabiner strap opened to allow deer on to short section bar in chiller. Replace carabiner. Lower bar so weight is taken on short section bar. Remove sliding bar. Reverse process to get deer out.

Sounds like a faff but it’s very quick and easy and no lifting at all. Deer goes from vehicle to winch in wheelbarrow.

@Tim.243 mght have given me a few ideas for this set up

 

[Tim.243]

Seriously considering asking a local fabricator to make me a longer loading rail for my Landig fridge. The carcass rail as it is works well, but the headspace above the fridge is limited - if I had a longer rail, I could install an electric hoist to lift fallow up onto the rail and slide them into the fridge.

Extension would need to be considerably longer, increasing length from circa 80 cm to 170 cm.

I can't see that the extra length would cause any issues with leverage causing the fridge to topple forwards - the fridge is on four stable feet and the loading rail would be suspended at the non fridge end (fixed to a beam via chain). I'm not sure what thickness the existing stainless tube is (fairly thin) but to my mind, it should be fine for fallow.

Welcome thoughts, views and ideas!

You could pull it up from the floor with the winch off centre from the door, that way you don't need the head space...

 

[Tom_Ov]

You could pull it up from the floor with the winch off centre from the door, that way you don't need the head space...

How does that work then @Tim.243 - run the hoist cable through a pulley closer to the fridge than the hoist itself?

 

[Tim.243]

How does that work then Tim - run the hoist cable through a pulley closer to the fridge than the hoist itself?

yes, as you will only loose the height of the pully not the winch and fixing bracket.

I make/repair stuff all day so a plate on the floor with a 4 raw bolts fixing for the winch with 2 pins so you can move the winch out the way through the pully and pull up. the trick is to pull from lower down the deer (hips) with a loop of seat belt/strap then your gamble is ready through the hocks for your rail....
They are only deer not cattle...