What a lot of people forget is that its not the weight of a rifle that is the issue per se. Its the balance. Pick a proper big game rifle. They weigh 10, 12 even 14 lbs. But the balance well and when carried they seem to loose their weight.

By contrast the so called - lightweight rifle of today is a nose heavy affair since all the weight is in the barrel and moderator and the super lightweight carbon stock is no counter balance.

And then you see a light rifle with a 56mm scope with magnification that is suitable for spotting ticks on a buffalo’s testicle at 2,000m. And a bipod / tripod that would look out of place on a 20mm anti aircraft gun. Then you add a cheek piece bag on the but with 20 rounds of ammo. And to carry the whole lot you add a sling harness more suitable to a yoke for clydesdale to pull a plough.

Simplest way to shed weight is shed components. Firstly go for a skinny barrel, but make sure its a good one. Magazine - an internal blind mag has no parts. You don’t need a 20 rd quick detach suitable for a squad automatic. Scope - its a hunting rifle where you need to put a bullet into an animal at up to 300m. You don’t need a heavy weight target / sniper scope with complicated reticles and large turrets. A couple of milldots perhaps. 42mm objective more than enough. Mounts - do you really need a full length rail etc. Good quality steel mounts are slimmer, sleeker, stronger and probably lighter than cheap bulky aluminium.

Moderator - do you really need one? How much environmental disturbance does the one shot you take on a deer really make? A 22 or 24” inch barrel is a lot quieter than a 20”. And you get much better ballistics. If you need a moderator go as small and light as possible. No it won’t reduce the sound as much as a piece of scaffolding pipe but …..

Bipod - these add hugely to embuggerance of rifle carry. The ruin the balance and dig in your back. Do you really need one. Woodland / fields - mostly we shoot off sticks so a bipod is unnecessary weight.

In the mountaIns we often carry a day pack. You take this off to shoot and put it on the ground. How difficult is to put it in front of you and use it as rest.

In the mountains we always used to carry a rifle in a slip. Keeps it clean, dry protected and much more comfortable to carry. The slip was used as a rest when shot the deer with 4x scopes.
 
I'd get a .308, chop it to 16" and bung something like an Ase SL5 on it. Job done.

The original post was back in January. I wonder what the OP chose to do?
 
Just be wary jumping to a lighter rifle, especially in .308 - can be a very snappy round. the 6.5 creed very capable round, good bullet voice and sympathetic recoil. a light .308 on the other hand may knock you around a tad!
So why would a 110gr 30 cal bullet leaving the barrel at 2900fps knock you around more than a 120gr 6.5 bullet doing 2900fps?
The 6.5 creed is a crap choice for a short barrel too much case capacity for such a small diameter barrel. A Grendel would be better if you insisted on a 6.5.
30cal+ allows you much better dynamics if you want a shorter barrel. Sadly light .338 hunting bullets are not so easy to come by in the UK but if you want to save on rifle weight and shoot reasonable ranges that's the way to go.
 
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This is my lightweight rifle. It is a bullpup in 6.5 x 57mm but I would recommend also in 7 x 57. It is a "Crapahute, made by Gex-Dumez in Sallanches, near Geneva but, in France. It has a teflon coated stainless 24" barrel, a kevlar stock and the whole weighs very little more than the barrel and action. With a reflex type moderator it balances perfectly on the right hand (also available in LH version). Until I foam filled the stock the sling weighed more than the stock and it is the nearest thing I know to a waterproof stalking rifle. Originally designed to hang on the "D" rings on a rucksack for chamois shooting and to hang across the chest it is lightweight, versatile and quick to reload. It is now on its second barrel having fired more than 15,000 ads through its predecessor. Because the side of the action is also the cheekpiece no adjustment required. It is not my most accurate rifle but it still shoots better than me which is good enough. I have used it for all UK deer species, wild boar, Swedish elk, and foxes.
 

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So why would a 110gr 30 cal bullet leaving the barrel at 2900fps knock you around more than a 120gr 6.5 bullet doing 2900fps?
The 6.5 creed is a crap choice for a short barrel too much case capacity for such a small diameter barrel. A Grendel would be better if you insisted on a 6.5.
30cal+ allows you much better dynamics if you want a shorter barrel. Sadly light .338 hunting bullets are not so easy to come by in the UK but if you want to save on rifle weight and shoot reasonable ranges that's the way to go
I would say as a rule, unless limiting yourself to specific ammunition - 6.5s will knock you around far less then .30cals
 
This is my lightweight rifle. It is a bullpup in 6.5 x 57mm but I would recommend also in 7 x 57. It is a "Crapahute, made by Gex-Dumez in Sallanches, near Geneva but, in France. It has a teflon coated stainless 24" barrel, a kevlar stock and the whole weighs very little more than the barrel and action. With a reflex type moderator it balances perfectly on the right hand (also available in LH version). Until I foam filled the stock the sling weighed more than the stock and it is the nearest thing I know to a waterproof stalking rifle. Originally designed to hang on the "D" rings on a rucksack for chamois shooting and to hang across the chest it is lightweight, versatile and quick to reload. It is now on its second barrel having fired more than 15,000 ads through its predecessor. Because the side of the action is also the cheekpiece no adjustment required. It is not my most accurate rifle but it still shoots better than me which is good enough. I have used it for all UK deer species, wild boar, Swedish elk, and foxes.
I'd be worried about breech failure, etc putting my face that close to the receiver. Mind you, I did that all the time with an SA80 :doh:
 
I would say as a rule, unless limiting yourself to specific ammunition - 6.5s will knock you around far less then .30cals
If you're talking about using a short barrelled rifle to save weight you'd certainly be right but I'd say you probably shouldn't be limiting your ammo choice to factory ammo unless you enjoy the aesthetics of a flamethrower with the added boon of masses of noise, reduced power & rainbow trajectories.
 
a Creedmoor with a 20' skinny tube, I was intending to buy a super light mod for it, but this all steel B&T balances the rifle on the magazine.
as others have said, balance makes a rifle feel lighter than it is. Person I'd just chop the end off what you've got and file under
Stop worrying and enjoy your rifle

IMG_8555.jpeg
 
Mauser M12 Impact in .308 is a nice rifle with a 20" barrel and ~3kg without scope and mod. I put a Minox 3-15 x 56 scope, a DPT mod and Tourbon neoprene cheekpiece with hard foam riser on mine and it's a lovely rifle to carry about. Have used it for stalking lots of different terrain, the bolt is silky smooth and the trigger light and crisp, the bolt can be locked in the closed and cocked position.
I have that, excellent
 
Some of us were former soldiers (with the FN SLR) even before the SA80 was trialled! :old: 🥲
But when I fired the SLR you were not putting your cheek against the chamber unless you were getting it VERY wrong 🫢

PS- my first Service weapon was a Lee Enfield - thankfully I migrated to the Sterling but when the SA80 arrived they made us all qualify on it although by that stage I was only carrying pistol.
 
Hi guys,

I currently use a 24" tikka in 6.5 creedmoor for all my stalking. It sometimes is far too long and a pain in the ass 🤣.

Thinking of saving up and getting something a little lighter and more handy.

Just looking for ideas what you guys all think?

My initial thoughts was to get a 308 in around a 20" barrel or so. Then put it in something like a pse stock.

I also like the looks of the sig cross as its extremely light and has good adjustability in the butt.

A adjustable comb is a must too.

Any good ideas guys? Also anyone with experience on these particular kinds of rifles just so I can do some research for a while before jumping in.

All input is appreciated guys 👍
CONSIDER a straight pull or break barrel this way you can shorten the rifle and not suffer from muzzle blast and velocity loss due to a short barrel
 
All input is appreciated guys 👍
Secondhand Parker Hale Model 1100 LW as in Lightweight if they can still be found? Or a Winchester Featherweight? Plus, of course, dump that heavy variable 50x 'scope for a fixed power or variable 40x. Google Parker Hale 1100 Lightweight and it will take you to a guy on Facebook with the one below in 6.5x55. So if available on G'Trader or the like you can use you existing bullets if you homeload?

LW1100.jpg
 
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What a lot of people forget is that its not the weight of a rifle that is the issue per se. Its the balance. Pick a proper big game rifle. They weigh 10, 12 even 14 lbs. But the balance well and when carried they seem to loose their weight.

By contrast the so called - lightweight rifle of today is a nose heavy affair since all the weight is in the barrel and moderator and the super lightweight carbon stock is no counter balance.

And then you see a light rifle with a 56mm scope with magnification that is suitable for spotting ticks on a buffalo’s testicle at 2,000m. And a bipod / tripod that would look out of place on a 20mm anti aircraft gun. Then you add a cheek piece bag on the but with 20 rounds of ammo. And to carry the whole lot you add a sling harness more suitable to a yoke for clydesdale to pull a plough.

Simplest way to shed weight is shed components. Firstly go for a skinny barrel, but make sure its a good one. Magazine - an internal blind mag has no parts. You don’t need a 20 rd quick detach suitable for a squad automatic. Scope - its a hunting rifle where you need to put a bullet into an animal at up to 300m. You don’t need a heavy weight target / sniper scope with complicated reticles and large turrets. A couple of milldots perhaps. 42mm objective more than enough. Mounts - do you really need a full length rail etc. Good quality steel mounts are slimmer, sleeker, stronger and probably lighter than cheap bulky aluminium.

Moderator - do you really need one? How much environmental disturbance does the one shot you take on a deer really make? A 22 or 24” inch barrel is a lot quieter than a 20”. And you get much better ballistics. If you need a moderator go as small and light as possible. No it won’t reduce the sound as much as a piece of scaffolding pipe but …..

Bipod - these add hugely to embuggerance of rifle carry. The ruin the balance and dig in your back. Do you really need one. Woodland / fields - mostly we shoot off sticks so a bipod is unnecessary weight.

In the mountaIns we often carry a day pack. You take this off to shoot and put it on the ground. How difficult is to put it in front of you and use it as rest.

In the mountains we always used to carry a rifle in a slip. Keeps it clean, dry protected and much more comfortable to carry. The slip was used as a rest when shot the deer with 4x scopes.
A noted elsewhere on the forum my stalking rifle weighs in at 4.21kg (9.28Ibs). A Sako 85 Hunter in .308W with 1:11" sporter barrel, five round magazine loaded with 150gr Sierra ProHunters. The scope is a 2.5-10x32 FFP. The weight includes a sling. The balance is perfect and the rifle is very accurate. IMHO a perfect set-up for stalking out to 200-250m. Going after prey further out is hardly "stalking".

An aside: is there any better looking hunting rifle than a sleek walnut stocked one with a orange/red butt pad?

IMG_3690.jpg

Cheers
 
A noted elsewhere on the forum my stalking rifle weighs in at 4.21kg (9.28Ibs). A Sako 85 Hunter in .308W with 1:11" sporter barrel, five round magazine loaded with 150gr Sierra ProHunters. The scope is a 2.5-10x32 FFP. The weight includes a sling. The balance is perfect and the rifle is very accurate. IMHO a perfect set-up for stalking out to 200-250m. Going after prey further out is hardly "stalking".

An aside: is there any better looking hunting rifle than a sleek walnut stocked one with a orange/red butt pad?

View attachment 382402

Cheers
A fine rifle is like a beautiful sleek young lady or gentleman dressed in good tweeds, or a barbour. 50 or 60 years later they still look elegant even if they and their clothing show the signs of a life well lived.

On the other hand that somewhat curvey young lady or gentleman dressed in synthetic man made materials such as lycra, whilst they might look cute and cuddly, after only a few years they just look blobby and clothing is just saggy elastic. They are quickly discarded for the next latest younger model.
 
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I had a F&D 196 which I used on my .308 T3X Wideland Veil and Sako S20, as well as a FW149 used on a Sako 75 .243 and an X-Bolt .270. Despite having full powder burn in the .308s 20” barrels, I had severe gas-cutting in the FW196 after about 2 years of not too heavy use. Unlike some other SD users experiences on here, I found F&D great to deal with and they replaced the FW196 with a UTS231 at substantial discount. The new one has a titanium core unlike the 196. All moderators are consumables IMHO and will not last forever but I’m hopeful the UTS231 fares better than the 196. So far, all appears good :thumb:

View attachment 379313View attachment 379314View attachment 379315View attachment 379316
This is what 18" 308's are spitting into the moderators.....
 

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This is what 18" 308's are spitting into the moderators.....
Depends upon the load - in my 20” barrels one of the key parameters beside speed I look for is extent of powder burn. If you don’t reload, that’s not an option and it’s one of the reasons why I have sympathy with moderator manufacturers when people complain about moderator wear as once it’s sold, they have no effective control on the environment it sees, maintenance, etc.
 
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