Mora Garberg Initial Impressions (Not very impressed!)


Well-Known Member
Hi all,

There are some brands which are synonymous with what they make, Swarovski Binoculars, Husqvarna Chainsaws, Tikka Rifles, Mora Knives. Invest in the brand and they will give you the goods.

Have been a big fan of Mora in the past, got a couple of Mora Clippers when I was younger and learnt basic knife skills with them (sharpening, basic woodwork etc.) great knives which were nearly throw away in price, but quality wise as much as you would really need in a knife.

Having come to appreciate Scandi-grinds for general purpose use, I was steered in the direction of the Skookum Bushtool. After a very long waiting list (just over two years!) I finally got one, extremely robust knife which I have been very happy with. It has been used on everything successfully, from deer to firewood prep, and whilst not cheap ($200+shipping) it is not exactly expensive for a handmade knife and leather sheath.

Employer putting me through DSC2, accredited witness advised me to get a different knife as carbon steel and leather sheath (although kept impeccably clean and razor sharp) seen as a no-no for some reason.

Fine, employer offers to buy a stainless steel and plastic handled+sheathed knife of my choosing. Remembered that I used to have Mora knives and they come in stainless/plastic flavours. Decided to get a Garberg as they have good reviews and I'm not paying for it.

Arrived yesterday, had a look and have been comparing it to my other Scandi-grind blade.

First of all, my Garberg did not come with a Scandi-grind profile. It came out of the box with a taper towards the edge very slight yet noticeable razor (hollow) grind instead of the classic wedge shape. Very odd as Mora are a Swedish company and the marketing is full of references to bushcraft/survival and the outdoors.

Cue 20 minutes on the stones and strop, problem solved. The stainless steel they use is OK, nothing more than that. It appears to be the same type of stainless steel they use on their cheaper blades, nothing wrong with that. Still in two minds whether I should grind the sharp tip down slightly since a slightly rounded tip is my preference (don't plan on using it to poke things).

On to the Multi-Mount sheath; a jack of all trades master of none approach so it seems. Comes with a belt loop attachment which you slip over the sheath, and a separate attachment with strap that secures your knife by going over the top of the handle. Sheath is not long enough to mount both attachments securely, so you have to choose if you want a belt loop or a secure knife. I would like both please if that's not too much to ask!

There is a plastic tray/sled which supposedly allows for mounting on MOLLE/PALS webbing systems. The way the knife slides into the tray does not instill much confidence, neither does the velcro that Mora provides to secure everything together!

Needless to say I can fix all of these issues myself with a little time, so not too much of a big deal, but buyer beware! I expected much more from a Mora knife that promised to be a significant upgrade over their base model. The full tang is nice but not necessary, and if I had paid the 80 odd pounds for the knife (they were closer to 100 on release) I would be disappointed.

I would still say that if you don't have an outdoor knife, get a Mora, but unlike most brands you do not get what you pay for. Get the cheapest possible one, or more! (preferably carbon steel!) and learn how to sharpen it, use and abuse it. If it gets lost or left on the hill there will be no tears as it cost you under a tenner.

Sorry Mora, but you spent a lot of money on marketing and less on R&D, and the product shows it. Very sad to see a legendary company make a knife like this which could have been great but turned out just OK-ish, if slightly over-priced!


Well-Known Member
Shame that you were misinformed by the AW as you could have avoided this situation.

It is not the Witnesses role to tell a Candidate how he or she should operate or what kit they should use, they should simply observe, record and (to a lesser and lesser extent these days) question the Candidate. They should only intervene if an action is going to compromise safety or is unlawful.

Obviously an AW can also act as a trainer/advisor if required but this must be conducted independently from any witnessing and it is entirely up to the Candidate if they chose to follow any advice given.