i wanted a pr of boots for this spring tall to keep some of the heather out and a bellows tongue ,so i got some zug leather not easy these days made patterns of the last i had shaped to my foot shape and hand sewed the uppers with calf linings ,i sewed the welt on ,and sewed on triple leather soles ,my wife talked me out of hob nails so i have glued and stitched rubber cleat soles on