New Pard NV007 on a Swarovski Z6 ?

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T

Tazz

Well-Known Member
I would like to put one of the new Pard 007’s on my Sauer 202 in 243. It’s my Roe, CWD and Munty rifle but I would like to put add on NV so I can use for some foxing. I have a new Pard NV008 on my 17HMR and I am impressed with it. I will only be shooting out to 150 yards. I have read lots of posts and reviews some contradicting each other regarding using Pards on Swarovski scopes due to the coatings. Given Rusan make a dedicated converter for Swaro Z6 and Z8’s to mount the Pard it would lead me to believe they do work
 
Two problems with using a PARD on Swarovski Z6
1. lens coatings - the Swaro has lens coatings optimised for blue light which is prevalent at dawn and dusk, but these coatings don't pass IR very well, so you' would need to use a lot of IR to get enough back through the scope and into the PARD
2. The Z6 does not focus below 50m. That's a problem because IR focusses at different point is the scope compared to visible light. Typically, a target at 100 yards, when illuminated with IR will require the scope focus to be set at 20 yards or less.
Even targets at 150 yards will likely be out of focus because the Z6 can't focus below 50m. This problem gets worse as magnification increases and it's unlikely you'd be shooting at a fox size target at 150 yards with the scope at base magnification.
No doubt someone will come along and say the PARD works with the Z6.
I have a Z6i and I've tried it - you can get an image - but it's rubbish.
Rusan are simply providing a product that has been asked for by people who don't understand the limitations of their scope in this particular application
Sorry to be the bearer of news you probably didn't want to hear, but better that than wasting your money.
If you really want to have some NV capability with your Swarovski, you need to look at front add-ons
I have a Digistalker front add-on and it is very sensitive and does work far better than an 007, but is not as good as an 008
The other alternative is the Pulsar F455 front add-on, which has a very similar spec to the Digistalker

Cheers

Bruce
 
mealiejimmy said:
Two problems with using a PARD on Swarovski Z6
1. lens coatings - the Swaro has lens coatings optimised for blue light which is prevalent at dawn and dusk, but these coatings don't pass IR very well, so you' would need to use a lot of IR to get enough back through the scope and into the PARD
2. The Z6 does not focus below 50m. That's a problem because IR focusses at different point is the scope compared to visible light. Typically, a target at 100 yards, when illuminated with IR will require the scope focus to be set at 20 yards or less.
Even targets at 150 yards will likely be out of focus because the Z6 can't focus below 50m. This problem gets worse as magnification increases and it's unlikely you'd be shooting at a fox size target at 150 yards with the scope at base magnification.
No doubt someone will come along and say the PARD works with the Z6.
I have a Z6i and I've tried it - you can get an image - but it's rubbish.
Rusan are simply providing a product that has been asked for by people who don't understand the limitations of their scope in this particular application
Sorry to be the bearer of news you probably didn't want to hear, but better that than wasting your money.
If you really want to have some NV capability with your Swarovski, you need to look at front add-ons
I have a Digistalker front add-on and it is very sensitive and does work far better than an 007, but is not as good as an 008
The other alternative is the Pulsar F455 front add-on, which has a very similar spec to the Digistalker

Cheers

Bruce
Click to expand...
Hi Bruce

Thanks for the post, you are what I was after someone with practical experience of the Pard 007 and a Z6. I have read similar from others but often quoting second hand experiences, I also have a Z8 on another calibre but I assume I would have the same quality issue as with the Z6i. I have considered putting a 008 on the 243 but love the Z6i and on my 202 it’s a great combination. May now start looking down the front add on road
 
Tazz said:
Hi Bruce

Thanks for the post, you are what I was after someone with practical experience of the Pard 007 and a Z6. I have read similar from others but often quoting second hand experiences, I also have a Z8 on another calibre but I assume I would have the same quality issue as with the Z6i. I have considered putting a 008 on the 243 but love the Z6i and on my 202 it’s a great combination. May now start looking down the front add on road
Click to expand...
I recently had this dilemma with a regular customer, we went down the quick detach road.
Innomount fitted to a Pard 008LRF and his day scope.
The RTZ of the Innomount is superb.
Possibly a solution for consideration.
Col
 
mealiejimmy said:
Two problems with using a PARD on Swarovski Z6
1. lens coatings - the Swaro has lens coatings optimised for blue light which is prevalent at dawn and dusk, but these coatings don't pass IR very well, so you' would need to use a lot of IR to get enough back through the scope and into the PARD
2. The Z6 does not focus below 50m. That's a problem because IR focusses at different point is the scope compared to visible light. Typically, a target at 100 yards, when illuminated with IR will require the scope focus to be set at 20 yards or less.
Even targets at 150 yards will likely be out of focus because the Z6 can't focus below 50m. This problem gets worse as magnification increases and it's unlikely you'd be shooting at a fox size target at 150 yards with the scope at base magnification.
No doubt someone will come along and say the PARD works with the Z6.
I have a Z6i and I've tried it - you can get an image - but it's rubbish.
Rusan are simply providing a product that has been asked for by people who don't understand the limitations of their scope in this particular application
Sorry to be the bearer of news you probably didn't want to hear, but better that than wasting your money.
If you really want to have some NV capability with your Swarovski, you need to look at front add-ons
I have a Digistalker front add-on and it is very sensitive and does work far better than an 007, but is not as good as an 008
The other alternative is the Pulsar F455 front add-on, which has a very similar spec to the Digistalker

Cheers

Bruce
Click to expand...
I can also confirm all that Bruce has said as I tried the Rusan/Pard 007 on my Z8i
 
BLUEROLL said:
I can also confirm all that Bruce has said as I tried the Rusan/Pard 007 on my Z8i
Click to expand...
Hi Blueroll, thanks for the post, did you also have poor image quality on when using the Pard 007 on your Z8 and how poor was it
 
Tazz said:
Hi Blueroll, thanks for the post, did you also have poor image quality on when using the Pard 007 on your Z8 and how poor was it
Click to expand...
Depends on what you call poor ?
When you have been used to the clarity of the Pard on a suitable scope it does indeed look poor, but a VCSEL Laser IR 850nm gives enough illumination and it may be possible to shoot foxes at 150 + but would depend on the background colour to contrast it and positive ID it as a fox.
 
mealiejimmy said:
If you really want to have some NV capability with your Swarovski, you need to look at front add-ons
I have a Digistalker front add-on and it is very sensitive and does work far better than an 007, but is not as good as an 008
The other alternative is the Pulsar F455 front add-on, which has a very similar spec to the Digistalker
Click to expand...
Please bear with me, I'm totally clueless about nighvision, never even seen an actual unit in the flesh. Can anyone explain the practical differences between front add-on and a regular nv unit like the pard 007? I know glass coatings and the lack of a focussing ring often prevent a high quality scope like a z6 from working well with a pard; why don't these issues similarly affect front add-on nv, or have I misunderstood?
 
As it's name suggests a front add-on attaches to the objective (front) lens of the scope rather than the ocular (rear) lens of the scope
A front add-on consists of an objective lens which focusses IR onto a sensitive camera and a small screen which displays what the camera sees.
when the add-on is fitted and you look through the scope in the normal way. what you are actually looking at is the screen at the rear of the add-on.
Since the screen produces visible light, scope lens coatings are not a problem and the add-on optics are designed such that no scope focus control is needed.
Here's a link to the Pulsar F455 NV front add-on Digital NV Front Attachment F455 | Forward Series | Pulsar
You might think that sticking something onto the front of a scope which you then look at through the scope would cause a loss of zero - and in earlier front add-on this was a problem, but the current generation of front add-ons seem to have cracked this issue.
When you buy a front add-on, you need to know outside diameter of your objective lens so that you get the correct adaptor to allow the add-on to be a snug fit onto your scope.
Hope that helps

Cheers

Bruce
 
Does anyone know what clearance is required between the barrel and the objective lens in order to fit the Pulsar F455 front add on ?
 
mealiejimmy said:
As it's name suggests a front add-on attaches to the objective (front) lens of the scope rather than the ocular (rear) lens of the scope
A front add-on consists of an objective lens which focusses IR onto a sensitive camera and a small screen which displays what the camera sees.
when the add-on is fitted and you look through the scope in the normal way. what you are actually looking at is the screen at the rear of the add-on.
Since the screen produces visible light, scope lens coatings are not a problem and the add-on optics are designed such that no scope focus control is needed.
Here's a link to the Pulsar F455 NV front add-on Digital NV Front Attachment F455 | Forward Series | Pulsar
You might think that sticking something onto the front of a scope which you then look at through the scope would cause a loss of zero - and in earlier front add-on this was a problem, but the current generation of front add-ons seem to have cracked this issue.
When you buy a front add-on, you need to know outside diameter of your objective lens so that you get the correct adaptor to allow the add-on to be a snug fit onto your scope.
Hope that helps

Cheers

Bruce
Click to expand...
Fantastic explanation @mealiejimmy , many thanks
 
Jax said:
Click to expand...

That’s a good video I watched it yesterday on YouTube it’s a bit frustrating because at the end the guy puts up a facts frame that has Rifle/scope/calibre/ round used/ even the caller but nothing about distance, the quality of the NV is good enough for shooting foxes but how far was it 50 yards or 150 yards makes a big difference to the decision
 
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