Opinel knives steel temper

Sako75Hunter

Well-Known Member
I have a couple of trusty no. 12 Opinel pocket knives in basic format, ie in regular carbon steel with beech handles. One is about 10 years old and well worn, the other is only 2-3 years old.

I use a Lansky sharpening set on both, applying exactly the same treatment, but the older knife just will not hold a decent edge the way the newer one does. I'm wondering if the steel is maybe case hardened, and the wear is such that it's gone through to the non-hardened steel beneath.

Does this happen?
 
Have never had to use anything other than a really fine oil stone to keep an edge on any opinel I’ve ever owned & some of them are over 40 years old & razor sharp!
Ditto.
Always found they keep a good edge and are quick to refresh when needed

My son's outgrown safety round tip one is one of my favourite knives and keeps a wicked edge


Have you taken a lot of material off and now are into thicker blade material in which case you may need to reprofile the whole blade not just the edge
 
Ditto.
Always found they keep a good edge and are quick to refresh when needed

My son's outgrown safety round tip one is one of my favourite knives and keeps a wicked edge


Have you taken a lot of material off and now are into thicker blade material in which case you may need to reprofile the whole blade not just the edge
This might be the problem, thanks @weblyish
 
I have a couple of trusty no. 12 Opinel pocket knives in basic format, ie in regular carbon steel with beech handles. One is about 10 years old and well worn, the other is only 2-3 years old.

I use a Lansky sharpening set on both, applying exactly the same treatment, but the older knife just will not hold a decent edge the way the newer one does. I'm wondering if the steel is maybe case hardened, and the wear is such that it's gone through to the non-hardened steel beneath.

Does this happen?
The high carbon steel used will be basic 1095 or similar and it will be given a regular hardening and tempering . Now if someone say heated the blade to a high enough temp with a hot blue flame that could be undone ( but its a very odd thing to do ) . I feel its likely poor sharpening via lack of sharpening skill ( often enough people will simply not remove the burr ) . If the blade is bent you will also struggle
The stainless Opinel do not sharpen easy and don't hold the edge they have doesn't last very long . The high carbon versions take a good edge though
 
The high carbon steel used will be basic 1095 or similar and it will be given a regular hardening and tempering . Now if someone say heated the blade to a high enough temp with a hot blue flame that could be undone ( but its a very odd thing to do ) . I feel its likely poor sharpening via lack of sharpening skill ( often enough people will simply not remove the burr ) . If the blade is bent you will also struggle
The stainless Opinel do not sharpen easy and don't hold the edge they have doesn't last very long . The high carbon versions take a good edge though
The blade has definitely never been heated after leaving the factory, nor is it bent. I use the Lansky system where the angle of the varying grades of sharpening stone are fixed (I always set them at 25 degrees), making sure strokes are towards the blade, not away. Not sure what you mean about removing the burr?

What's odd is that the exact same procedure gets a fairly good edge on my other Opinels, but not on this older one for some reason.
 
The blade has definitely never been heated after leaving the factory, nor is it bent. I use the Lansky system where the angle of the varying grades of sharpening stone are fixed (I always set them at 25 degrees), making sure strokes are towards the blade, not away. Not sure what you mean about removing the burr?

What's odd is that the exact same procedure gets a fairly good edge on my other Opinels, but not on this older one for some reason.
I guess with your working off a measured angle here from the info we now have . Totally ignore what your device reads and use a flat stone freehand ( preferably a flat industial diamond type ) these need no lubrication and should not in any way be watered ,oiled etc just dry . Move the knife as if your trying to cut the finest of sliver off the stone and examine for the even bevel , flip to the other side till the edge meets at infinity ( if both sides where at different angles the knife would not matter)
I get quite a few folks contact me to ask what angle i sharpen at so they can match it , my response is " send it back to me " . The issue you have is a setting thing that gets in the way . A sharp knife is an edge that " meets at infinity" Free hand it if one side was different from a angle it will still be sharp so long as you forfill a burr flip flopping all the way along the edge , which would actually feel blunt until you stuck the burr off by stropping.
There are a few video "how to" trainings on my account on FB Bowland Blades but you may need to go through it a bit and they are start to finish , so get a brew on first thing LOL
 
The blade has definitely never been heated after leaving the factory, nor is it bent. I use the Lansky system where the angle of the varying grades of sharpening stone are fixed (I always set them at 25 degrees), making sure strokes are towards the blade, not away. Not sure what you mean about removing the burr?

What's odd is that the exact same procedure gets a fairly good edge on my other Opinels, but not on this older one for some reason.
Sometimes mass manufacturers will buy another steel because lets be fair they play games of pennies in mass production .
 
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