Pard 007 advice

I'm not sure if anyone has said this yet- but IME the most critical feature on a scope for a pard is the AO/side focus feature.

You can't get the crosshair and the target in focus at the same time without it. The pard also doesn't like too high a quality coating on a scope.

I run a pard on my HMR. It's kitted with a Burris 3-12x56. I largely shoot on minimum mag and head shot rabbits are manageable at 100 yards but it's not super easy. The IR doesnt help either it just puts a fussy dot the size of a rabbit head on the image.
 
Ma quasi da 2 lo ha misurato sul 12 mm o sul 16 mm?
Non sono sicuro che qualcuno l'abbia ancora detto, ma IME la caratteristica più critica su un ambito per un pard è la funzione di messa a fuoco laterale / AO.

Non è possibile mettere a fuoco contemporaneamente il mirino e il bersaglio senza di esso. Al pard inoltre non piace un rivestimento di qualità troppo alto su un cannocchiale.

Ho eseguito un pard sul mio HMR. È equipaggiato con un Burris 3-12x56. In gran parte scatto con il caricatore minimo e i conigli con colpi alla testa sono gestibili a 100 iarde ma non è semplicissimo. L'IR non aiuta né mette solo un punto esigente delle dimensioni di una testa di coniglio sull'immagine.
 
Ciao Billy, Thank you for your intervention, my telescope is Konus Pro 3-12x50 with engraved and illuminated lattice. How do I know the type of treatment on your lenses?? I bought it 10 years ago. The parallas correction has it from 3 meters up to 150 meters, after which it is set at infinite distance. When I see my prey, knowing the distance, I would immediately set parallases on the right and then deal with focus Pard 007.What do you think /do you think
 
Your scope should be fine.
Only top quality scopes like Swarovski, Zeiss and Schmidt and Bender have lens coatings which do not pass infrared very well.
With no disrespect, your Konus is not a top quality scope, so the lens coatings will almost certainly be OK.
Parallax down to 3 metres is very good and a magnification range of 3-12 with a 50mm objective is also good..
I think the PARD 007 will work well with your scope.
To make the PARD and your scope work together, it is best to follow this procedure:
1. Fit the PARD onto your scope, switch it on, bring up the main menu and then adjust the rear lens (dioptre) on the PARD so that the Menu is clear and in sharp focus
2. Adjust the main lens on the PARD so that the scope reticle is in sharp focus.
3. Adjust the scope parallax to bring the target into focus.
4. When shooting, only adjust the scope parallax to get the target in focus, DO NOT adjust either the dioptre or main lens on the PARD

You will find that, when using IR to illuminate your target, the parallax setting will not show the correct distance to the target.
Typically, when shooting at night, a target 100m distant will require the scope parallax to be set somewhere between 10m and 20m to get the target in focus.
Thus is because scopes are designed to work with visible light but IR focusses at a different point within the scope, and the adjutable parallax is needed to get the image to focus in the same place as visible light.

Cheers

Bruce
 
Il tuo ambito dovrebbe andare bene.
Solo i cannocchiali di alta qualità come Swarovski, Zeiss e Schmidt e Bender hanno rivestimenti delle lenti che non passano molto bene gli infrarossi.
Senza mancare di rispetto, il tuo Konus non è un cannocchiale di alta qualità, quindi i rivestimenti delle lenti saranno quasi certamente OK.
Il parallasse fino a 3 metri è molto buono e anche un intervallo di ingrandimento di 3-12 con un obiettivo da 50 mm è buono ..
Penso che il PARD 007 funzionerà bene con il tuo cannocchiale.
Per fare in modo che il PARD e il tuo ambito lavorino insieme, è meglio seguire questa procedura:
1. Montare il PARD sul cannocchiale, accenderlo, richiamare il menu principale e quindi regolare la lente posteriore (diottrie) sul PARD in modo che il menu sia chiaro e nitido
2. Regolare la lente principale del PARD in modo che il reticolo del cannocchiale sia perfettamente a fuoco.
3. Regolare la parallasse dell'oscilloscopio per mettere a fuoco il bersaglio.
4. Quando si spara, regolare solo la parallasse del cannocchiale per mettere a fuoco il bersaglio, NON regolare né la lente diottrica né la lente principale sul PARD

Scoprirai che, quando usi l'IR per illuminare il tuo bersaglio, l'impostazione della parallasse non mostrerà la distanza corretta dal bersaglio.
In genere, quando si scatta di notte, un obiettivo distante 100 m richiederà che la parallasse dell'oscilloscopio sia impostata tra 10 me 20 m per mettere a fuoco il bersaglio.
Ciò è dovuto al fatto che i cannocchiali sono progettati per funzionare con la luce visibile, ma l'IR si concentra in un punto diverso all'interno dell'oscilloscopio e la parallasse regolabile è necessaria per mettere a fuoco l'immagine nello stesso punto della luce visibile.

Saluti

Bruce
Ciao Bruce, sei stato veramente di grande aiuto! Grazie di cuore per avermi spiegato tutto ciò e per essere stato così preciso! Sarà impossibile vedere il mio reticolo illuminato? Sarà in bianco e nero anche se ho tale funzione? Saluti!
 
Your scope should be fine.
Only top quality scopes like Swarovski, Zeiss and Schmidt and Bender have lens coatings which do not pass infrared very well
Pard007 and solaris ir laser works good out too 300m with my S&B PM2, probably works further but never tested it at night past 300m and the fox at 275m didn't have any complaints...but then he didn't have a heart beat either ;)

The thing with Pards is its best to try before if possible, scopes you think would work don't and ones you think it won't work...does.

Funny old game
 
I use my pard out to 300m with the on board ir. i can’t understand why everyone says that it’s only good to 100m.
I have two pard 007s, one 940 NM and one 850 NM, What scope do you use to get this far out? I have been wondering about a meopta meosport 3-15x50, to use with the pard, but I am not sure. Now I use a zeiss Classic 2,5-10x50 but it missing the paralakse ajustment.
 
I have two pard 007s, one 940 NM and one 850 NM, What scope do you use to get this far out? I have been wondering about a meopta meosport 3-15x50, to use with the pard, but I am not sure. Now I use a zeiss Classic 2,5-10x50 but it missing the paralakse ajustment.
A delta Stryker, ior, meopta r1, s&b pm2 . Pretty much every scope Iv tried it on has been 300m capable
 
A delta Stryker, ior, meopta r1, s&b pm2 . Pretty much every scope Iv tried it on has been 300m capable

300m from a pard 007 ? On a S&B ?

That certainly hasn't been my experience. I don't think I would feel comfortable with 300m from my pard with any scope- but certainly not one like a S&B which coatings really don't suit the pards. In fact I get the best range with a Hawke or budget scope- but even with that not 300m
 
300m from a pard 007 ? On a S&B ?

That certainly hasn't been my experience. I don't think I would feel comfortable with 300m from my pard with any scope- but certainly not one like a S&B which coatings really don't suit the pards. In fact I get the best range with a Hawke or budget scope- but even with that not 300m
What IR and S&B are you using mate?
 
What IR and S&B are you using mate?

one of the early pard 007s which I think is the stronger laser.

It was a S&B Xenith 3-12x50. The reflections from the coatings were terrible. No way could I see a fox properly at 300m. Prob eyeshine but that's it.

Is that shot you linked to at 300m through a pard and S&B? Wow the image is clear! I find even mid range scope coatings tricky- but top end like S&B are really tough. Delta, Bushnell elite etc work well for me- good quality optics and reasonable image through a pard.

Does the fox target reflect light back better than a real fox I wonder ? It'd still a v impressive image I grant you 👍
 
I have a 007s like you mate and use a Sirus laser IR...are you using the on board Pard IR?

Yep that footage is the PM2, Pard, and Sirus IR laser. The target does reflect more than a real fox and alot will depend on the weather conditions but this fox was a smart and elusive customer and no matter what I did he'd not come in closer so I was happy with the conditions to take him at 308m. A known distance, baited, and known ballistics so I was confident with the shot.

308m Fox

if you don't have use an IR laser try and borrow one and test the S&B, I'd be interested to know if it makes a.dofference mate 👍🏻
 
I have a 007s like you mate and use a Sirus laser IR...are you using the on board Pard IR?

Yep that footage is the PM2, Pard, and Sirus IR laser. The target does reflect more than a real fox and alot will depend on the weather conditions but this fox was a smart and elusive customer and no matter what I did he'd not come in closer so I was happy with the conditions to take him at 308m. A known distance, baited, and known ballistics so I was confident with the shot.

308m Fox

if you don't have use an IR laser try and borrow one and test the S&B, I'd be interested to know if it makes a.dofference mate 👍🏻

Wow I'm amazed. Agree weather is a factor but I'm amazed that you get that quality.

I have tried additional IR and agree it gives a lot more range to the 007. Takes it from 175/200 --> 300+ for sure. I don't bother- 200 is plenty for me- I prefer to keep the weight down and have 1 less battery to think about.

But my limit with the Zenith was absolutely not IR. 100 yards was really pushing it.

I can only assume the coatings are quite different ? My Zenith didn't have SF/AO which didn't help- but the coatings really made it tricky too!
 
Wow I'm amazed. Agree weather is a factor but I'm amazed that you get that quality.

I have tried additional IR and agree it gives a lot more range to the 007. Takes it from 175/200 --> 300+ for sure. I don't bother- 200 is plenty for me- I prefer to keep the weight down and have 1 less battery to think about.

But my limit with the Zenith was absolutely not IR. 100 yards was really pushing it.

I can only assume the coatings are quite different ? My Zenith didn't have SF/AO which didn't help- but the coatings really made it tricky too!
Interesting! I was speaking to a very helpful chap yesterday at S&B and my scope was made back in 2005 so I wonder if coatings from then to now are very different...I'd expect so! A mate of mine also uses a PM2 and again has no issue with longer range viewing.
 
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