For Sale: Peter Eaton Knife - Secare / Elmax

Peter Eaton

Well-Known Member
The model shown here is a the Secare in Swedish Elmax Powder steel, details as below.

Developed by Uddeholm of Sweden it’s a high-chromium powder-metallurgy stainless steel alloyed with carbon, vanadium, and molybdenum, a mix that gives it excellent wear resistance, strong corrosion resistance, and impressive toughness. What really sets Elmax apart is how it’s made: instead of being poured as a molten ingot like traditional cast steels, the steel is atomized into microscopic powder, then compacted and sintered under heat and compressed under many tonnes in a pressure in a vessel, the steel molecules literally weld together! This powder-metallurgy process creates an incredibly uniform structure with very fine, evenly distributed carbides, eliminating the weak spots and large carbide imperfections of many common steels at a microscopic level. With cryogenic treatment this means an exceptionally strong three-dimensional edge, this in turn means strength behind the cutting edge. Stability of this level this can only be achieved with a powder steel!

This makes for a clean, consistent microstructure, which as a knife maker I am able to grind to .35mm with ease before even sharpening, that process alone is another four stages of grits and compounds. The final edge is accurate to .2 degrees of angle! Elmax is widely used outside of knives in demanding industries such as precision tooling and high-wear industrial components, such as the North Sea oil industry where standard steel wouldn’t cut it! Elmax takes a surgically sharp edge, holds it longer and has superior corrosion resistance making is excellent for deer work. Hence this isn't a cheap steel

Used by the Navy Seal teams as their go to knife steel and brands like Fällkniven and Bark River have all used it extensively, valuing its reliability, edge performance, and all-around versatility.

Easily stropped back to a razor-sharp edge, I also sell strops impregnated with diamond here For Sale: - MORE STROPS MADE I highly recommend these strops as stropping really is the secret to maintaining an edge.

Due to it already being ground to a thin edge Elmax is easily sharpened with a diamond or ceramic system, I highly recommend the Work Sharp Precision Adjusts models sold by Monarch here on SD.

If you need more advice from a knife manufacture open this link. Artisan Revere Invests 30x More In Elmax Steel

Knife Details

Secare Elmax @62 HRC
Length 219mm
Cutting edge 103mm
Ground to full flat with a hand sanded satin finish
A secondary edge of 18 degrees, accurate to .2 degrees and razor sharp!
Handle is layered orange and black G10
8 x G10 pins


This knife has no sheath at present but the buyer has a choice of sheath which will be a fully wet formed sheath by Gaz Kendall, wet forming it critical to a leather sheath as wet forming ensure the sheath is pre-shrunk to the knife in question, the knife locks into the sheath with a click, non wet formed sheath will stretch over time and the risk of losing a knife isn't worth it.

Price £399 inc secure over 18s postage. ID required.
 

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In this case is called sharpening choil. It helps to sharpen entire edge. This way, it's harder to damage the unsharpened ricasso of the knife. Some people are using this technique to hide uneven plunge lines cuts, usually ineffective method
 
In this case is called sharpening choil. It helps to sharpen entire edge. This way, it's harder to damage the unsharpened ricasso of the knife. Some people are using this technique to hide uneven plunge lines cuts, usually ineffective method
Thank you for that.
 
As Majik points out it is a small notch at the base of the cutting edge, right where the blade meets the handle (the ricasso). On many custom knives, it’s added for practical reasons rather than appearance.

The main benefit is simple: it allows the entire edge to be sharpened properly. Without a choil, the very back of the blade is difficult to reach with a stone or sharpening system. The choil creates just enough clearance for the stone to get into that tight area near the ricasso, so the edge can be worked evenly from tip to heel. Without it, you often end up with a small section that never quite gets sharpened.

Over time, this becomes more noticeable. On knives without a choil, you’ll sometimes see an uneven, slightly awkward-looking patch of unsharpened steel near the base of the blade. That’s not a flaw in use—it’s simply because the sharpening tool can’t properly access that area.

A choil also helps maintain the shape of the blade. When there’s no clear stopping point, repeated sharpening can gradually round off or thicken the edge near the handle. With a choil in place, it’s much easier to keep the original edge profile consistent.

Another advantage is protection. It reduces the risk of accidentally hitting the handle or the plunge line while sharpening, which can otherwise lead to scratches or damage. A choil is definitely an advantage here when sharpening systems and the stone is held above the blade as such.

When I sharpen a knife, it’s a seven-step process, with each stage gradually refining the edge by reducing the angle in very small increments until it reaches a razor finish. Five of those stages are done using either Tormek CBN wheels or the polishing and deburring wheels from a system I’ve built myself. At that level of precision, it’s essential to be able to reach right into the ricasso area without damaging the plunge lines, but also to do so safely. A sharpening choil makes that possible. It allows the wheels to access the very end of the edge cleanly, without risking contact with surrounding steel. It also plays a key role in safety. Without that clearance, there is a real risk of the blade catching the wheel near the handle. At speed, that can cause the knife to be pulled or thrown, which is extremely dangerous, the polishing wheel I use are moving at a high RPM. A properly placed choil prevents that by giving a defined, controlled stopping point for the sharpening process.

That said, not every maker includes one. Adding a sharpening choil takes extra time during the grinding process, Some makers also prefer the look of a continuous edge without any interruption, hence no need for a choil in this case , I sometimes do this but is depends on the design of the knife I am making.

In the end of the day, a sharpening choil is a functional feature. It makes maintenance easier, keeps the edge consistent over time, and helps avoid unnecessary wear, a lot of the EDC (every day carry) guys add a choil to production knives for ease of sharpening.

I agree with what Majik points out about plunge lines, I have also seen the same when custom knives have been overground in order to mask the issue.

Hope this helps and thanks for the kind words.
 
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