Pillar bedding a Ruger M77 Mk2

[takbok]

Here are a few pictures of my pillar bedding job.

I decided to bed my 220 properly because the POI was shifting from day to day, possibly go do with weather changes affecting foreend pressure on the barrel.

It's a bit more tricky due to the 30 degree inclination from vertical of the front action screw and the 2 piece bottom metal / floorplate. It's important to get the distance between floor plate and trigger guard right so that floor plate latches properly without binding.

The barrel channel was snug. I opened it out nicely and removed the foreend pressure point (I'd previously bedded the pressure point with epoxy).

Here are the preparation pictures.

 

[takbok]

More pics to follow later on. I still need to make a small pillar for the front trigger guard screw to position it consistently, mostly for floor plate latch function.

 

[ejg]

Ruger I did years ago. I reinforced the forend and bedding all in one. Rifle is shooting well since. In hindsight plenty over specked.

edi

 

[takbok]

I like that a lot @ejg - very nice . The use of carbon tow is interesting.

I might try to make a carbon fibre stock for this rifle at some stage, using a modified Sako 591 stock shape. I have a new barrel for it too, so always something to keep me busy!

 

[kripton]

Excellent job - please post pictures when finished.- may I ask where you got the new pillars and are they alloy or stainless?

 

[ejg]

At least one is sure the forend won't flex enough to touch the barrel even with a bipod loaded. Good foundation for the rifle.
Tak, Your pillars a fantastic.
edi

 

[takbok]

Excellent job - please post pictures when finished.- may I ask where you got the new pillars and are they alloy or stainless?

Hi, I made the pillars - they're aluminium. Not sure I could replicate them as I fettled them to fit the stock.

 

[User00040]

Hi, I made the pillars - they're aluminium. Not sure I could replicate them as I fettled them to fit the stock.

How do you achieve the knurled/textured finish on the exterior?

Those certainly won't be moving anytime soon!

 

[Yorric]

How do you achieve the knurled/textured finish on the exterior?

Those certainly won't be moving anytime soon!

By Knurling on a lathe no doubt H !
Ian

 

[User00040]

By Knurling on a lathe no doubt H !
Ian

Thought he might have some of those rare, tame gunsmithing elves about!

 

[Yorric]

Takbok, I'm following this one closely as I had a Ruger 77 Mk1V that shot well (sub inch).--- Until I removed the front pressure point to float the barrel when I fitted a Timney trigger to it. I didn't bed it though! The groups went really bad (5") Sooo I rebedded the front end with metal filled epoxy and it again shot half inch groups.
I always thought that the heavy barrel needed the added support to compensate for the fairly light receiver. Hopefully your super pillar bedding job will work with the free floating. - If not you can always put the pressure point back! Lol!
See you soon at Cawdor I hope.

Ian

 

[takbok]

How do you achieve the knurled/textured finish on the exterior?

Those certainly won't be moving anytime soon!

On my lathe with a knurling tool that @Tim.243 gave me. It's fairly easy to do.

 

[takbok]

Takbok, I'm following this one closely as I had a Ruger 77 Mk1V that shot well (sub inch).--- Until I removed the front pressure point to float the barrel when I fitted a Timney trigger to it. I didn't bed it though! The groups went really bad (5") Sooo I rebedded the front end with metal filled epoxy and it again shot half inch groups.
I always thought that the heavy barrel needed the added support to compensate for the fairly light receiver. Hopefully your super pillar bedding job will work with the free floating. - If not you can always put the pressure point back! Lol!
See you soon at Cawdor I hope.

Ian

That's interesting. I bedded the pressure point when I first got the rifle as the barrel moved side to side really easily. Groups weren't bad but the POI shift annoyed me, especially when it's shooting 6" high and resulting in missed deer. Feels really solid now so I have high hopes.

 

[takbok]

Here are the finished pics. It thankfully came apart easily with everything release waxed. The visible edges aren't presentation grade but I'm happy that it's strong and will do the job well. I can touch up any areas where there are voids, and will seal the barrel channel with a coat of epoxy or lacquer.

I didn't relieve much wood in the inletting as I felt that the pillars will be doing most of the work. The bedding under the barrel is pretty thick forward of the receiver though.

 

[Yorric]

I just noticed the unusual scope mounting --- That's a bit different!
Ian

 

[takbok]

I just noticed the unusual scope mounting --- That's a bit different!
Ian

Thanks, not a lot standard on this project rifle anymore! I couldn't find a nice low 30mm mounting solution so made my own and tapped the receiver.

Ruger M77 MK2 Ultra Low 30mm scope mounting

I picked up this lovely little bargain rifle recently. I wasn't too happy with the super high scope mounts available so made some custom mounts. I drilled and tapped the receiver with M4 threads which was quite a challenge due to the hardness of the investment cast receiver!! I used a £27 30mm...

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

The nice thing about a £200 rifle is that I'm not scared to develop my gunsmithing skills on it.

 

[ejg]

Takbok, I'm following this one closely as I had a Ruger 77 Mk1V that shot well (sub inch).--- Until I removed the front pressure point to float the barrel when I fitted a Timney trigger to it. I didn't bed it though! The groups went really bad (5") Sooo I rebedded the front end with metal filled epoxy and it again shot half inch groups.
I always thought that the heavy barrel needed the added support to compensate for the fairly light receiver. Hopefully your super pillar bedding job will work with the free floating. - If not you can always put the pressure point back! Lol!
See you soon at Cawdor I hope.

Ian

I believe if you need a pressure point to improve accuracy then there is another issue with your rifle. Good rifles shoot well without pressure points. What does pressure point mean? It means you are bending the barrel slightly upwards with a stock slightly bent downwards. Every gram of pressure you put on the forend be it hand, bipod or resting on something changes 1:1 the pressure onto your barrel.... that's why pressure points are not good. The only reason factories manufacture with pressure points is so that the barrel is centered in the barrel channel when the rifle is assembled. This is a very important thing to the rifleman. More important than accuracy.
edi

 

[Yorric]

Takbok have you fettled the factory trigger to reduce the let off? - I believe that they can be improved by polishing the sear etc. When I worked on mine (many moons ago!) I was going to get that done, but decided on the Timney instead. --- Fitting that involved removing material from the trigger well on mine. The result was a super smooth trigger that I believe improved the groups when I set it to one pound pull.
Ian

 

[takbok]

Takbok have you fettled the factory trigger to reduce the let off? - I believe that they can be improved by polishing the sear etc. When I worked on mine (many moons ago!) I was going to get that done, but decided on the Timney instead. --- Fitting that involved removing material from the trigger well on mine. The result was a super smooth trigger that I believe improved the groups when I set it to one pound pull.
Ian

I was very fortunate that the rifle came with a fantastic trigger - can't tell it apart from my Tikka & Sako triggers. I think that someone has been 'in it' and done a good job. It looks like a standard investment cast Ruger trigger.

 

[Klenchblaize]

I just noticed the unusual scope mounting --- That's a bit different!
Ian

Conetrol yourself!

K