Pre ‘64 110 sporter bedding decision

John7176

Well-Known Member
I have the above in 30-06, shoots about 1.5 inch with privi I recon can do better. Being old rifle it looks like it has a lump of wood at the end of the fore end to add a bit of tension to the pretty skinny barrel. Look like someone did some light bedding round the action screws (shines bits on pics) but I notice half way up the barrel where there used to be iron sights and the barrel has a swell it is contacting the stock on one side. Plan ‘A’ is to bed the barrel from the fore most action screw forward including recoil lug, right to the end of the stock , leaving the lump of wood at the end act like a dam (may be a thin scrape of epoxy underneath). I was not going to re-bed the rear action screw area as the old bedding looks pretty sound. Pics below. Thoughts / advice please on plan ‘A’ suggestion for plan ‘B’ without going took nuts 3E1453D5-7DD0-4B0B-A66F-7EC24DAE0997.jpeg59E6FEBF-9633-4DFB-B9D4-3B58ED6528E7.jpeg69EE35A0-7074-4629-8AB5-FD8A5AF1AC4F.jpegCAB7D5FA-1743-466F-9158-90781B5968C1.jpegF7424E20-E726-4A72-9FDD-63AB1A974363.jpeg 3E1453D5-7DD0-4B0B-A66F-7EC24DAE0997.jpeg
 

alberta boy

Well-Known Member
I've bedded quite a few 110's , good rifles by the way . They do like a bit of fore-end pressure , you still have the fore-end pad intact , so you're good in that regard . The sight boss can cause problems if it bears on one side or the other , just relieve it on the side that it bears on . One point to keep in mind is the barrel nut , I fill the grooves on the nut with modeling clay before bedding , if you don't , you can get a mechanical lock . It depends on what type of barrel nut you have , some don't have the grooves , they have a single hole , which should also be filled with clay .
You can full length bed the barrel , but I've found it isn't really necessary . I bed the entire front receiver ring , behind the recoil lug and the first 1 1/2 inches of the barrel and make sure there's no barrel contact points until the pressure pad at the tip of the fore-end . You can tune them by varying the upward pressure on the barrel . The easiest way is to wrap tape around the barrel at the pressure point , or use cardboard shims . If you find it shoots better with more pressure , you can use epoxy to make a permanent pressure point .
The 110 series are very popular out here , they don't have the panache of a lot more expensive rifles , but I've never seen one that didn't shoot . I own a few , including one I put together in 358W . It is a very consistent rifle and isn't picky about what I feed it . I think you'll notice an improvement in accuracy once you bed yours . Keep us posted , I always enjoy posts where people do work on their own rifles .

AB
 

John7176

Well-Known Member
Tops! Just what I was looking for ! good tip on the barrel nut I would have missed otherwise. Would you recommend digging out the old bedding round the lug?. Also not sure if I should remove the mag box to bed front end of action, if so I can’t figure out how to, and tips?
 

alberta boy

Well-Known Member
Post a pic if you can , there are a lot of variations in the 110's . Is it a blind mag with a bolt on plate on the bottom ? I would remove the old bedding so you get good adhesion with the epoxy you're putting in .

AB
 

John7176

Well-Known Member
It is a blind mag with bottom plate. Model just says 110L (I’m a lefty) Some pics attached, serial 212xx no letter prefix which it seems from savage shooters indicates pre’64. Devcon ordered , hopeful feel brave enough to tackle the wood this weekend B09CC35B-2C59-4D79-AA82-D7744A1CDD05.jpegAE0BB580-DCC9-4046-87CF-ECE048C82108.jpeg145AE2B2-CFBD-4A24-8FE5-FF4FCB842708.jpeg6C627D3B-25CA-47DE-87C1-6EDF5D0663FF.jpegFF72F0C6-CB2A-4ECC-A421-BFE215DFA9EF.jpeg
 

alberta boy

Well-Known Member
OK , that's what I thought . The mag box on yours doesn't come very easily , I'd just leave it in and give it a good coat of release agent , no biggie . I did forget to mention the index lug on the recoil lug , on the front , under the receiver ring , fill that with modeling clay as well . The big thing to remember is don't be cheap with the release agent and check to make sure there are no mechanical locks . You'll do fine , post some pics when your done and let us know how it shoots .

AB
 

John7176

Well-Known Member
Plucked up wine fuled courage and did the bedding. Not the neatest job, over did the wax release agent, should have took more material out from under front part of the action but happiest moment was when the metal come way from the stock and was not glued together !. Did it shoot better .... not sure, limited testing inconclusive. Need to do some load development DDE0CA6F-01C7-463E-87F3-BD918FDA2038.jpegDDE0CA6F-01C7-463E-87F3-BD918FDA2038.jpeg16BE68A5-BEFD-4824-B8E7-6A3D4D715F7B.jpegDDE0CA6F-01C7-463E-87F3-BD918FDA2038.jpeg14D30C29-70CA-465B-B1B0-99378A8757CC.jpeg14D30C29-70CA-465B-B1B0-99378A8757CC.jpeg14D30C29-70CA-465B-B1B0-99378A8757CC.jpeg
 

alberta boy

Well-Known Member
There you go . I would make sure the action screws don't contact the stock though , and clean out any epoxy that's in the screw hole , a small round file and a few minutes work is all you need .

AB
 

John7176

Well-Known Member
The screw hole thing is counter intuitive, you’d think it would lock it in tighter?. What’s the reason to have the action screws not touching the stock?
 

alberta boy

Well-Known Member
It can put stress on the receiver if it bears unevenly on one side of the screw or the other . It doesn't take much , just make sure the screw goes in without resistance .

AB
 
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John7176

Well-Known Member
Okay-doky , want to get this done and accurate, I want my first roe buck in the freezer. Determined to use this gun!
 

alberta boy

Well-Known Member
Good luck and keep us posted on the Roe . Don't forget about trying to vary the upward barrel pressure if it isn't consistent at first , you probably won't have to , but something to keep in mind .

AB
 
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