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User00003

Well-Known Member
got the quad out today 1st time in a year. hit the start button and it creates a mechanical buzzing sound by the battery box thing.. tried jumper cables and let run for 1hr, but still the same. battery is less than 3 yrs old,,,did i kill the battery by not using it?
 

mereside

Well-Known Member
i would say so if you are not using it for any length of time you can get a cheap trickle charger for bikes to keep it in good condition,atb wayne
ps just try another battery
 

Si

Well-Known Member
Mine does that when it's not been used for a few months, and the pull start is a back breaker :D
 

Yorric

Well-Known Member
If the battery is the old fashioned type that can be topped up it may be low on electrolyte - get some D.I. water & fill it up. Then put it on charge on a trickle charger that has a pulse type of system (Optimate or Ring RSC508 both good choices to look at) & it may well come back to life over a while.
These pulse chargers are great - you can leave them connected & switched on for months & you won't damage the battery. Being tight & having 5 motorbikes to keep charged I made my own version of pulse controller & ran them off a single charger. All the bikes would start first time anytime & the batteries lasted better.
It does pay to buy decent quality batteries for bikes / quads as there are some cheap rubbish ones that don't last very well however you charge them.

​Ian
 

teyhan1

Well-Known Member
Could be battery or could be sticky starter solenoid. Take the battery off and get it tested before buying a new one. Then buy an ACCUMATE for motorbikes. Best charger ever made for small batteries and you can leave it on.
 

paul o'

Well-Known Member
£35 get a new batt feller i used to plug mine in onto a bike battery conditioner trickle charge when not in use and remove the poz'y lead from the battery if left for long than 3weeks.
 

Pedro

Well-Known Member
Trickle chargers are a must. My quad mostly gets used in the winter to lug me and bags of wheat around pheasant feeders. It shares garage space with my motorbike (mostly summer use) and between them both they share a charger. The most well known charger for bikes is the Optimate, which you should be able to get from your nearest motorbike garage, or online. It includes wires that connect to your battery with a plug on the other end that makes plugging the charger into it easy peasy. It also revives dodgy batteries, to some extent.
 

TankGunner

Well-Known Member
£35 get a new batt feller i used to plug mine in onto a bike battery conditioner trickle charge when not in use and remove the poz'y lead from the battery if left for long than 3weeks.

I just give it a 5 minute run up to the top gate and back every 14-18 days. Never had a battery problem in 22 years.
 

countrryboy

Well-Known Member
got the quad out today 1st time in a year. hit the start button and it creates a mechanical buzzing sound by the battery box thing.. tried jumper cables and let run for 1hr, but still the same. battery is less than 3 yrs old,,,did i kill the battery by not using it?


I take it started no prob's with the jump leads? if so it's the battery (possibly misunderstood ur post)

Must admit ithe buzzing or clicking noise can be a starter motor/solenoid problem, if jumpers never made a difference then some other problem, but i'm no mechanic.
But if it started no prob's with jumpers defo the battery, better to buy a new 1 for piece off mind even if a battery every 3 years not that expensive really if the bike starts when u want it too
 

teyhan1

Well-Known Member
Here's what I'd do in the workshop
1. Jump leads to battery positive and earth directly to engine block. This bypasses the battery. Attempt to start. If it goes then it is battery. If not then go to 2.
2. Jump lead negative to engine block, positive to starter motor side of solenoid. If engine turns over then faulty solenoid. If faulty solenoid then replace and get your battery tested anyway as its 3yrs old.
3. If that doesn't work then, jump lead negative to engine block and positive direct into starter motor. If that works check all leads for corrosion and secure fitting. If it doesn't work then suspect starter motor.
4. If none of the above work then it could be a faulty starter switch.
5. Failing all that stand there scratch your head, kick it a couple of times, threaten it with your largest hammer and then send it to a pro (like me):norty:

Oh and I forgot that if it's a modern bike then they can have starter relays that go down too
 
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User00003

Well-Known Member
Here's what I'd do in the workshop
1. Jump leads to battery positive and earth directly to engine block. This bypasses the battery. Attempt to start. If it goes then it is battery. If not then go to 2.
2. Jump lead negative to engine block, positive to starter motor side of solenoid. If engine turns over then faulty solenoid. If faulty solenoid then replace and get your battery tested anyway as its 3yrs old.
3. If that doesn't work then, jump lead negative to engine block and positive direct into starter motor. If that works check all leads for corrosion and secure fitting. If it doesn't work then suspect starter motor.
4. If none of the above work then it could be a faulty starter switch.
5. Failing all that stand there scratch your head, kick it a couple of times, threaten it with your largest hammer and then send it to a pro (like me):norty:

Oh and I forgot that if it's a modern bike then they can have starter relays that go down too

thanks for your reply, I will try to take it all on board and research it. at present I only understand what you describe in point 5. ;)

another issue I have is...when I drive nicely and slowly with moderate pressure on the throttle, it feeds fine, but when I press the throttle a bit more, almost a very exact point every time, it starts to cough and splutter and loses fuel feed. also creates problems with pulling heavy loads, but that might be a function of me needing to give it more throttle of course.

the local garage changed the fuel filter, oil, some gaskets, checkeed the fuel lines, etc. but did not resolve the issue. I am thinking maybe it's taking in air when throttle is applied halfway? or maybe the throttle itself is not working right?

any ideas?
 

paul o'

Well-Known Member
so would i feller but mine was 40 miles from me on a farm that i beat on so not cost effective as only used in the shooting season for collecting the birds and putting out the stops being me .lol
ps i also use a fuel addertive so it keeps it good for longer when not in use or drain it off. old fuel kills a battery as weak spark turning and not burning :doh:

I just give it a 5 minute run up to the top gate and back every 14-18 days. Never had a battery problem in 22 years.
 
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Heym SR20

Well-Known Member
PKL,

You are describing exactly the same conditions that I see all the time with boats, cars and motor bikes that are not used regularly. Firstly lead acid batteries. These are really 100 year old technology and there are basically two types - starter batteries as found in most cars, bikes etc, and deep discharge as used in caravans etc. The first type can produce a high amperage for a short time to run high torque starter motors etc. What they hate are slow discharge to completely flat. The other type are able to provide a low amperage to power lights etc over a long period of time. What happens over time is that batteries slowly discharge themselves and the lead plates inside get covered in lead salts - that is part of their chemistry. What is required is a slow charge to bring them back up, ideally from a pulsing charger that shocks loose the lead sulphate salts. What you will probably find with your current battery is that it will appear to take a charge whilst its running, and have enough to start it again, but come back a couple of days later and it flat. New battery is probably required.

In terms of the poor running - engines are designed to be run and not sat. Even worse for an engine is to run at idle type speeds. Petrol, and even diesel does go stale after a period of time. With petrol all the highly volotile components evaportate off, and its those components that are needed when you are accelarating etc. With an petrol engine with a carburettor its best to run them dry and to drain the tank if not being used for a while. Not sure about a fuel injection system, but with those I would n't run it dry, but I would certainly put in fresh fuel. More to the point is now that its clean, and with fresh fuel give it a good hard run - not the usual ten minutes pottering about, but an hour long run up a good hill. It's just the same as a car that is used about town, gets rough after a while. Give it a good motorway run and it feels so much better.

Your poor running on opening the throttle may also be a function of a clogged jet. I would add a dose of Redex or similar carb cleaner to your fuel and then give it a good run.

In terms of trickle chargers - very good idea. You can get little 2.5 to 5w solar panels now from the likes of Maplin for not a lot of money - £20 or so and can keep the battery topped up. Obviously needs good light, but you could put it in a shed window etc.
 

teyhan1

Well-Known Member
thanks for your reply, I will try to take it all on board and research it. at present I only understand what you describe in point 5. ;)

another issue I have is...when I drive nicely and slowly with moderate pressure on the throttle, it feeds fine, but when I press the throttle a bit more, almost a very exact point every time, it starts to cough and splutter and loses fuel feed. also creates problems with pulling heavy loads, but that might be a function of me needing to give it more throttle of course.

the local garage changed the fuel filter, oil, some gaskets, checkeed the fuel lines, etc. but did not resolve the issue. I am thinking maybe it's taking in air when throttle is applied halfway? or maybe the throttle itself is not working right?

any ideas?

My guess is you've got something like a KVF650. They can be buggers for set up and will not accept anything but the right way.
If it is popping through the carb then it is running lean, if through the exhaust then rich. You need to set up the valve clearances carefully and ensure that the carbs are balanced properly.
 

User00003

Well-Known Member
it's a suzuki, something somethign.. name is something to do with a mountain or what have you! LOL.

I know the previous owner installed a fuel line valve, thinking it would solve the issue, but obviously hasn't. it's nothing to with with exhaust, so I'm guessing it's running 'lean'? ie. not getting enough fuel?? how to fix this myself, or do I need to splurge on a pro (which sucks given it's an old banger!)...
 

Johno100

Well-Known Member
Battery is toast , dont use a starter / charger on a vehicle with a stuffed battery as it can knacker CDI`s/ ECU`s .
 

mereside

Well-Known Member
pkl just check the fuel tap itself as the filter in there is usually overlooked you will need to undo the screws to the tap and take it out the tank it should have a filter on the end if petrol is on it for any length of time it goes like jelly and blocks the filter.
if it is not running right it will be on the pilot jet side and not the main jets so i would take the carbs off and make sure the jets are clean you might have jellyfied petrol in the carbs, they are not complicated and if you need to balance a set of carbs just buy a set of balance gauges off ebay it really is simple to do and you will be able to maintain it yourself if its not worth going to a pro, it all depends on how you are mechanically, atb wayne
 
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