Surgemaster34
Well-Known Member
Anyone got any tips or tricks to saw a roe's skull without buying the proper sawing kit, help???
Sawing a roe head for mounting
- Thread starter Surgemaster34
- Start date
Yes its not so difficult, first skin the head don't worry about the flesh but make sure you get the skin off particularly the nose area as if left on it tends to contract and break the nose bone when boiling. Once you have the skin off decide on the cut you want long nose or whatever long nose is probably the easiest to do freehand, mark the flesh to give guide for the saw, for long nose cut a line from the ear to just above the top teeth. Don't use a bone saw as they tend not to cut straight, a good sharp wood .saw will do the job easily enough. Lay the head on its side and cut along the mark you had scribed with your knife, take your time and try to keep the cut straight, cut half way through turn over and start from the other side, that way if your cut is not exactly straight any discrepancy will be in the middle and not seen once it is mounted, mistakes can also be trued up using a belt sander or even an a small angle grinder does a good job. As I said its not difficult I do all my heads freehanId its many years since I used a jig
pheasant sniper 1
Well-Known Member
If your near Poole bring a skull round and ill guide you through it..
I do all mine skinned with a large Hacksaw.
Firts skin the head, then boil with soap powder for about 2 hours, turn of pan and leave to cool this cooks the meat and the soap powder turns it into a jelly type substance leave over night and re boil or should i say simmer the next day for about 1 hour, you will know when skull is ready because the meat should fall off the skull, scrape off whatever doesnt and powerwash it , carfull around the nasal bones, if you blown them out they can be re glued afterwards, should you want a full skull mount, blast all the brain out with preasure washer.
When the skull is clean, Bleach, if you do a lot of skulls i use Dairy Hyperchlorite mixed half and half with water or just buy some Hairdressers Peroxide that you mix with powder that comes with it and .paint on, if you use Hyperchlorite emerse skull in it being carfull not to get it on the antlers as they will go white. leave it in the solution no more than 24 hours as any longer will result in the skull going chalky. take skull out and leave to dry. when its dry take a 9 inch grinder with a steel cutting disc and cut reqiired size, trust me its very fast and no bone chips, and you always get a straight cut as far as im concerned its the only way to cut a skull. hope this helps Andy Denson TAXIDERMIST
When the skull is clean, Bleach, if you do a lot of skulls i use Dairy Hyperchlorite mixed half and half with water or just buy some Hairdressers Peroxide that you mix with powder that comes with it and .paint on, if you use Hyperchlorite emerse skull in it being carfull not to get it on the antlers as they will go white. leave it in the solution no more than 24 hours as any longer will result in the skull going chalky. take skull out and leave to dry. when its dry take a 9 inch grinder with a steel cutting disc and cut reqiired size, trust me its very fast and no bone chips, and you always get a straight cut as far as im concerned its the only way to cut a skull. hope this helps Andy Denson TAXIDERMIST
palmer_mike
Well-Known Member
You probably know what your on about being a taxidermist, but I was told that boiling for that long could lead to the skull coming apart? Have to say as a result of being told that I have never boiled longer than about 40 mins
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