scope mounts

Stoney Creek - Purpose Built Shooting Clothing


I recently bought a Parker Hale .270 rifle and a 6-24 x 44 scope. I am assuming that the scope mounts are also Parker Hale.

I am having a real problem with the scope mounts moving on the rifle section after about 5 rounds. I don't want to tighten the screws any more than I am doing.

Would putting a thin slice of rubber in between the scope mount and the rifle help? Can anyone offer any advice on what I might do. I don't really want to buy new scope mounts as these seem of good quality.




Well-Known Member
Hi Dave,
Make friends with your local vet and beg an old xray plate .Strip of this in the appropiate place will solve your problem.


Well-Known Member
Sako do some plastic ring inserts which fit into there mounts which stop the scope moving around. An other alternative is to speak to your local gunsmith, he may have the gunsmith's version of double sides sticky tape ( I've forgoten what it's called) which you can out around the scope ring and should hold your scope in place, that's what I did on my 30-06.

If it's still moving them it's best to consider a new set of mounts not worth the risk not good going out not knowing if your scopes going to move and send a bullet in a random direction.


parker hale mounting bpther

I have a parker hale ;ightwieght safari in .30-06. When i got it the scope moved all the time. I tried lots of different things. then i contacted Norman Clarke gunsmiths and the sent me some weaver style blocks and some millet mounts. the scope now sticks like **** to a blanket. It cost about £45 i think for both items.

some don't like the millet mounts but for parker hales they are spot on becuase sometimes the rifles aren't as straight as they might be and they give an amount of hozizontal adjustment first.



Well-Known Member
Check the quality of the mounts, if their cheapo mounts,that could be your problem.
I have to say all my rifles got Apel steel mounts on them now, as I only had a problem once when I put the big scope on the 30-06 off my 22-250 and the mounts gave in ! so they were changed for another set of Apel steel mounts and I reverted back to the 2.5-10x42 Swarovski, as was a phase with my eysight not permanent problem.


Well-Known Member
On my Parker Hale Midland I use the weaver style blocks, but the rear ring has a small screw like part emerging from the base of the ring which fits inside the base. Again as already said already contact norman clark and for about £40ish they will fit you out with millet rings and the weaver style bases to suit your rifle.

good luck



Now the allen key has snapped off and is stuck in the nut - now no excuse I have to get new mounts.

Thanks for all the advice

Dusty Dave


Thanks for all of your advice.

I bought millet rings and the weaver style bases from norman clark (£28 total). 10 rounds later - the scope seems solid and has not moved.

paul k

Well-Known Member
I know that it's off topic but I used to have a .243 Parker Hale and I found that when the barrel got hot the point of aim moved. This meant that I could get it zeroed by putting maybe 10 rounds down but from a cold barrel it might be an inch off.

I solved the problem by selling it and buying a Steyr Mannlicher!!


I regularly have this debate with a colleague with a Sako .243

I don't believe a free-floating barrel provides any more accuracy when stalking, as the shot would be taken when the barrel is cold.

As for zeroing I have zeroed roughly with the warm barrel and then a shot each time I go out with a cold barrel just to do the final tweaks.

I did start cleaning the barrel with meths each time I stalked, but I think the residual smell was putting the deer off.

I love my Parker Hale Safari. Mainly because it was cheap and gives good grouping.
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