scope ring alignment/centering.
- Thread starter BLUEROLL
- Start date
1. Centre your scope's windage reticle by determining the total number of clicks available from left to right and then halving.
2. Cradle scope in the bottom half of each non-windage adjustable ring after attaching them to the rifle's rail.
3. Place a hi-viz painted 6" circular disc at
yards and bore sight rifle using a front & rear rest.
4. If windage reticle is touching or close to aiming mark you're probably good to go. If unhappy with reticle position, consider swapping position of front and rear rings, then bore sight again. You may wish to do this anyway, or any other combination of ring half interchange, simply to determine any difference.
K
2. Cradle scope in the bottom half of each non-windage adjustable ring after attaching them to the rifle's rail.
3. Place a hi-viz painted 6" circular disc at
yards and bore sight rifle using a front & rear rest.4. If windage reticle is touching or close to aiming mark you're probably good to go. If unhappy with reticle position, consider swapping position of front and rear rings, then bore sight again. You may wish to do this anyway, or any other combination of ring half interchange, simply to determine any difference.
K
Thanks for all of that info.1. Centre your scope's windage reticle by determining the total number of clicks available from left to right and then halving.
2. Cradle scope in the bottom half of each non-windage adjustable ring after attaching them to the rifle's rail.
3. Place a hi-viz painted 6" circular disc at
4. If windage reticle is touching or close to aiming mark you're probably good to go. If unhappy with reticle position, consider swapping position of front and rear rings, then bore sight again. You may wish to do this anyway, or any other combination of ring half interchange, simply to determine any difference.
K
But do you check the rings for centre alignment by reversing them on the rail first ?
Use Burris Zee Signature rings!
You need to centre reticule first.
If using non shimmed rings then a piece of steel bar of the correct dia can be useful. Place rings on rail lightly screw up put on bar and make sure its fitting snugly in both bottom halves of rings then tighten up bases.
Alot will depend on how well the dovetails where machined or the rail was made and fitted. Sometimes had to rotate a base through 180 o to get scope aligned.
Burris Zee rings eliminates this. Super clamping and no marks on scope tube. I use them on all my rifles barr my .223 which has a Leupold scope and adjustable bases.
D
You need to centre reticule first.
If using non shimmed rings then a piece of steel bar of the correct dia can be useful. Place rings on rail lightly screw up put on bar and make sure its fitting snugly in both bottom halves of rings then tighten up bases.
Alot will depend on how well the dovetails where machined or the rail was made and fitted. Sometimes had to rotate a base through 180 o to get scope aligned.
Burris Zee rings eliminates this. Super clamping and no marks on scope tube. I use them on all my rifles barr my .223 which has a Leupold scope and adjustable bases.
D
Saw a great method for doing this the other day, small mirror placed on the objective lens, look through the scope and align the two images,
Are you talking about aligning the axis of one ring to the other or to the axis of the rings to the bore? The latter isn't as critical as the former, although, from a windage point of view especially, as close as possible is preferable.
I lap rings to make their individual axes align, some can be very poorly aligned when fitted. Whether it is the rings, the clamps or the rail, if you lap the rings so they're concentric you'll not kink your tube.
Just another reason why I use these:
The CONETROL system has two really unique aspects. First, since each ring is locked in the base by pressure from opposing sides, you can use these opposing screws to help center the scope over the rifle’s bore. You can also slightly off-set the scope, in both mounts, while maintaining parallel alignment to accommodate for bolt handle clearance. Unlike some mount systems that also allow windage adjustment, Conetrol bases allow you to do this with both the front and the rear ring. The result is a mounting system that allows the scope to be perfectly aligned with the rifle’s bore. Since both the front and rear rings can be adjusted horizontally, this can be done without applying any torque to the scope.
K
The CONETROL system has two really unique aspects. First, since each ring is locked in the base by pressure from opposing sides, you can use these opposing screws to help center the scope over the rifle’s bore. You can also slightly off-set the scope, in both mounts, while maintaining parallel alignment to accommodate for bolt handle clearance. Unlike some mount systems that also allow windage adjustment, Conetrol bases allow you to do this with both the front and the rear ring. The result is a mounting system that allows the scope to be perfectly aligned with the rifle’s bore. Since both the front and rear rings can be adjusted horizontally, this can be done without applying any torque to the scope.
K
I don`t think I have explained it very well.
I am only talking about checking two piece rings as soon as you take them out of the box/packet by putting one with the clamp screw/screws on the right on the rail and the other next to it in the nearest rail slot with the clamp screws on the left. Then see if the rings align or if there is a step between them. If they don`t align is is poor design/engineering and does it even matter if they align when the clamp screws are both on the same side.
If they don't align then that's a problem at any spacing of the rings, but the effect would be reduced the further apart they are.
It won't matter if they are both the same way round and align but are off centre, as far as the scope crimping goes. It could make elevation adjustments difficult depending how far off centre they are - as you adjust elevation you'll need to add or remove windage by an amount to stay perfectly centred. Again how much will be down to many things, not least your ability to group with the ammo.
It won't matter if they are both the same way round and align but are off centre, as far as the scope crimping goes. It could make elevation adjustments difficult depending how far off centre they are - as you adjust elevation you'll need to add or remove windage by an amount to stay perfectly centred. Again how much will be down to many things, not least your ability to group with the ammo.
I don’t really worry too much if mounting on a piccatinny rail with quality rings. A quick check just to make they’re visually aligned and the scope sits correctly is all I do.
What rings are you using?
Anecdotally, I did once learn the hard way with two piece mounts on a Rem LA. I purchased a specific set of LA bases and paired with Warne rings. Tightened everything down and immediately had problems adjusting the scope and zeroing.
Turns out what I had actually fitted were SA bases which caused a mismatch in height on the LA. They must have got mixed up somewhere before I bought them as I didn’t have a R700 SA at that time. An extreme example of mismatch forces acting on the scope and causing problems. Needless to say I always check two piece mounts and have even bedded piccatinny rails on R700 actions (tighten the front two screws and see how much of a gap there is in the rear…)
What rings are you using?
Anecdotally, I did once learn the hard way with two piece mounts on a Rem LA. I purchased a specific set of LA bases and paired with Warne rings. Tightened everything down and immediately had problems adjusting the scope and zeroing.
Turns out what I had actually fitted were SA bases which caused a mismatch in height on the LA. They must have got mixed up somewhere before I bought them as I didn’t have a R700 SA at that time. An extreme example of mismatch forces acting on the scope and causing problems. Needless to say I always check two piece mounts and have even bedded piccatinny rails on R700 actions (tighten the front two screws and see how much of a gap there is in the rear…)
jthyttin
Well-Known Member
Don't do it. It's not a sign of quality. Keep both rings same way around.
While I think it's possible to make rings that would align in Picatinny rail if one is 180 degrees around, the interpretation of Picatinny spec is so widely misunderstood by both rail and ring manufacturers that you will only end up putting tension on the scope tube and possibly marking it.
There would be a way to make a ring that centers on any rail, but it would involve both sides of the clamp moving at same rate (like BOG Deathgrip tripod saddle, for example).
No, I use a variety of Burris rings with plastic inserts. I use the inserts to optically centre the scopes to equalise the left/right adjustment. I also use the inserts to maximise the available elevation especially when shooting long range .22LR.
Regards
JCS
Me too
These are the sort of tools you need, a lot of crimped scopes are due to rings being out of alignment. It's more an issue with steel rings as allunium is softer.
It's worth swapping rings around to get the best fit, before lapping with a piece of steel bar of the right diameter.
Plastic inserts such as Burris/Sako etc are such a good idea I wish everyone offered such an option.
www.brownells.co.uk
It's worth swapping rings around to get the best fit, before lapping with a piece of steel bar of the right diameter.
Plastic inserts such as Burris/Sako etc are such a good idea I wish everyone offered such an option.
Scope Alignment Rods
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