Shultz and Larsen bolt stuck after firing

a few years back.... a wife dropped in a shotgun from her late husband to store, was loaded.
edi
 
Just had a look at mine and that screw is certainly the forward stock screw, the one on mine does not protrude above nor into the chamber area.
Guess it depends on if you have one you can swap the barrels on, if you do that is not the front stock bolt, it too small and on mine is the pin that locates the barrel so it is correctly oriented for the bolt to fit.
If I hadn’t just zeroed after changing my barrel over to go to Scotland I would have removed my barrel to show how it works
 
Just a follow up on this.

Took rifle to gunshop today where gunsmith had a look (Country Sports Shop, Bovey Tracey). After checking with me several times that it was definitely a spent case in the chamber the action was removed from stock and attempted to remove barrel from action but it wouldn’t move more than 1mm, it was also held firmly in place.

Trigger assembly removed and every attempt to move bolt using brute force and rubber mallet but no joy. Action then held firmly in vice and more mallet action which eventually freed it up. Was very glad the bolt handle on this rifle is a solid piece of steel - it took a considerable amount of ‘persuasion’ to free it up.

The issue turns out to have been the shear pin which holds the ejector back - the pin had failed so the empty case was being held firmly against the chamber by the ejector effectively locking everything in place.

I’ve spoken to Alan Rhone who has requested to inspect the bolt to check there’s nothing else amiss. He has said he’d inspect it, replace the pin and post it back free of charge. The Country Sport Shop charged me nothing for the hour it took to find the issue and free up the bolt. Excellent service from both.

I’m relived it’s not the fox factory rounds which were the issue - I’ve been using them for a couple of years now and really like them.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions here, all very much appreciated.
 
Excellent outcome, disappointing from S&L to see this failure as they are one of the highest quality manufacturers out there. But…it is just metal at the end of they day, it can fail.
 
Excellent outcome, disappointing from S&L to see this failure as they are one of the highest quality manufacturers out there. But…it is just metal at the end of they day, it can fail.
On the phone I was told they had never had this happen previously which is why rather than just send me out a replacement shear pin they wanted to investigate the bolt to try and understand why the pin had failed. I don’t feel in any way disappointed with Shultz and Larsen and certainly not with Alan Rhone who has always provided excellent customer service. Like you say; it‘s just a shear pin after all.
 
Glad you got to the bottom of the problem. Are you certain there is no damage (scarring) to either the rifle and/or bolt metalwork other than the “pin” in question?

K
 
Glad you got to the bottom of the problem. Are you certain there is no damage (scarring) to either the rifle and/or bolt metalwork other than the “pin” in question?

K
As far as I can tell the bolt is completely undamaged. Alan Rhone will check this tomorrow. I will get the barrel off soon and inspect the chamber too but the only real damage was where the ejector was grinding in to the base of the case while the mallet was freeing up the bolt. The lettering stamped in to the base was shiny/scratched, this being softer than steel the ejector itself appears fine but that will be checked over by Alan too and replaced if necessary.
 
Why is it called a shear pin? Is it designed to shear or is it screwed to a torque and the head shears off?
I don't understand why it's called a shear pin?
 
Why is it called a shear pin? Is it designed to shear or is it screwed to a torque and the head shears off?
I don't understand why it's called a shear pin?
I don’t know. It’s a thin, hollow bit of metal. Like a tube but with a thin gap along one side, so more like a sheet rolled up to a cylinder but both ends not quite touching. It’s then tapped in to a hole slightly smaller than its original diameter so that it is a very tight fit, squashed uniformly in to the space. The gunsmith said something about them being designed to fail - presumably before something more important does, in this case I guess to protect the ejector. So I guess it’s a pin which is designed to shear/fail before the thing it protects gets damaged?
 
Roll pins are just a way to get a zero tolerance fit into a hole as it is made of spring steel very slightly oversized that gets tapped/squeezed into a hole.
From Wiki = A spring pin (also called tension pin or roll pin) is a mechanical fastner that secures the position of two or more parts of a machine relative to each other. Spring pins have a body diameter which is larger than the diameter of the hole they are intended for, and a chamfer on either one or both ends to facilitate starting the pin into the hole. The spring action of the pin allows it to compress as it assumes the diameter of the hole. The force exerted by the pin against the hole wall retains it in the hole, therefore a spring pin is considered a self retaining fastener.
Spring pins may be used to retain a shaft as a journal in a plain bearing as a type of key to fasten one shaft to another, or to precisely fasten flat faces of mating parts together through symmetric hole locations.
 
A roll pin. Got it.
Roll pins by the way are not designed to break to prevent something else from breaking.
That is in fact what a shear pin would do.

I am curious how it has broken.
Best wishes.
 
Right, well now I’m confused! It was definitely a roll pin then - but it was called a shear pin during the conversation yesterday. Unless I misunderstood something, which wouldn’t be the first time…
 
Right, well now I’m confused! It was definitely a roll pin then - but it was called a shear pin during the conversation yesterday. Unless I misunderstood something, which wouldn’t be the first time…
Who called it a shear pin?
 
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