Stainless Steel zip wire

[hazzahunts]

Wondering if anyone has used a stainless zip wire in place of a rail system in a chiller/ game larder. Only useful for a straight larder obviously.

I have been pricing up rail systems and they seem very expensive compared to a stainless zip wire set up. I know this will be more “slidy” than a rail system but you can always stop up the wheels.

TIA

 

[Uncle f]

I doubt whether the system will be able to support the weight required

 

[hazzahunts]

I doubt whether the system will be able to support the weight required

This is my concern, although you can get 7/8mm thick marine stuff that may do the trick..

 

[VSS]

It will support the weight ok, and if you fit a hefty bottle screw at one end of it where it fixes to the wall you'll be able to tension it up bar tight. Even so, you'll get some sag under load, so might end up with all your carcasses suspended somewhere around the middle of the room, and find yourself having to push them uphill to the chiller!
Incidentally, I have used a length of chain as a hanging rail in my current (temporary) facility, about 7'6" off the floor and tensioned up really tight with bottle screws. If there's any sag then at least the carcasses can't all slide down to the middle!

 

[Uncle f]

On a budget. Just use 42mm key clamp galvanised tube. About £50 for 6 m lengths

 

[John Gryphon]

I hung 50 odd rabbits legged in pairs on a fence wire that I strung up. It was a warm night and overnight the wire stretched and they all dropped into the sag and the heat didnt dissipate....whoo they stunk next day.

 

[Apthorpe]

It would be a lot of strain on the walls to keep enough tension in the wire. Sounds like a pain in the ass. Take Uncle F's advice

 

[Essex stalker]

Wondering if anyone has used a stainless zip wire in place of a rail system in a chiller/ game larder. Only useful for a straight larder obviously.

I have been pricing up rail systems and they seem very expensive compared to a stainless zip wire set up. I know this will be more “slidy” than a rail system but you can always stop up the wheels.

TIA

Have a look at this company, I have no connection with them but used them on my larder and the system works well

Multirail Auto - Runners Sliding Door Systems (runners-uk.com)

Cost is about £80.00 for a 6 metre length of track
The runners/ hooks are on ball races and come in about £20.00 each

 

[The Singing Stalker]

Have a look at this company, I have no connection with them but used them on my larder and the system works well

Multirail Auto - Runners Sliding Door Systems (runners-uk.com)

Cost is about £80.00 for a 6 metre length of track
The runners/ hooks are on ball races and come in about £20.00 each

now that looks interesting.

 

[Yorric]

Look at Unistrut, the back to back large section would be fine and strong enough for many small installations. Lots of compatablele brackets available for it.
Ian

 

[tozzybum]

+1 for Unistrut it holds our factory together.

 

[Freeforester]

now that looks interesting.

Local smith fabricated an 8m long goalpost for me with H girder/beam (turned 90°) along the top, welded on the sliding door runner lengths on the underside. Couple stay triangles welded in at either end to stop any to and fro shake/movement. Cost effective.


Left the runner short one end, so the carriers can be removed, the alloy strip is fastened to a through bolt that simply pulls out; the two holes at the girder end were used to 'wind up' the girder into place, having first lifted the 8m beam off the floor and on to an ever increasing pile of breeze blocks (pre tele-handler days -warm work for two of us!) carriers have a single screw link tacked on to the underside; socket/plug feeds to hoist. Note the "A" welded on to the triangle: other end is 'B': we manhandled the beam into place on the floor before realising it was the wrong way round: cue another Herculean effort just turning the beam around 180°, how we laughed!


Hoist sitting on a section of beam atop the long one; mid strengthener strut added to avoid flexing;


The cold room end; roe hanging lower down (-out of the direct cold draught, so they don't dry out too quickly), reds behind have longer legs! Half cut lengthways drainage pipe below to channel all drips into collection pot nearest the door end. The inside and door surround cutaway were all secured to the beam, and insulated with kingspan before cladding. Clark drain running along floor beneath beam from door back to the outside end, but floor in cold room has a full width smooth polished concrete floor.

 

[Mr B]

Wondering if anyone has used a stainless zip wire in place of a rail system in a chiller/ game larder. Only useful for a straight larder obviously.

I have been pricing up rail systems and they seem very expensive compared to a stainless zip wire set up. I know this will be more “slidy” than a rail system but you can always stop up the wheels.

TIA

The stainless wire on our helicopters is plenty strong enough for the job! I hydraulically crimp loops into the ends and use this for various things. As stated, a turnbuckle will put adequate tension on the system and remove any stretch.

 

[Mr B]

Wondering if anyone has used a stainless zip wire in place of a rail system in a chiller/ game larder. Only useful for a straight larder obviously.

I have been pricing up rail systems and they seem very expensive compared to a stainless zip wire set up. I know this will be more “slidy” than a rail system but you can always stop up the wheels.

TIA

If you need some cable to experiment with and you’re not in a rush, pay the postage and it’s yours

 

[hazzahunts]

Have a look at this company, I have no connection with them but used them on my larder and the system works well

Multirail Auto - Runners Sliding Door Systems (runners-uk.com)

Cost is about £80.00 for a 6 metre length of track
The runners/ hooks are on ball races and come in about £20.00 each

Thanks - that is good value and far better than I had found elsewhere.

 

[Pete6.5]

Scaffold pole and 200mm stainless hooks and plumbing pipe clamps. I can take a picture of my rail if you want. Side note butchers sundries for stainless hooks are the cheapest I've found