Steel Shot Choke Alteration

[Cranborne]

Planning to have the fixed 3/4 choke on my Browning 525 opened up for steel shot. It's got 3" chambers and is proofed to a sufficient pressure for HP steel once this has been done (although it will need to be reproofed for a fleur de lys stamp). It will be used for mainly walked up and driven game shooting, and duck fighting. What choking would be best? The other barrel is 1/4 choke.

 

[Tim.243]

Planning to have the fixed 3/4 choke on my Browning 525 opened up for steel shot. It's got 3" chambers and is proofed to a sufficient pressure for HP steel once this has been done (although it will need to be reproofed for a fleur de lys stamp). It will be used for mainly walked up and driven game shooting, and duck fighting. What choking would be best? The other barrel is 1/4 choke.

I use 1/4 > 1/2 in my 3" 425 just for ducks, 36gm 4's cyl > 1/4 in the 325 for all other (mainly pigeons) as it is a bit lighter than the 425 but both left cast 30" same lop

I would be temped to be under a half as walked up stuff is a bit closer and steel is very fast so 3/8 in the top...
If you do go half then insist it is...

 

[NullMac]

Going though the same thought process with my DT10. It is currently 5/8 and 7/8 when measured properly.

As I will use it mainly for Clays but with some game I will go with something just a bit less than half in both barrels.

In terms of constriction from the bore 3/8 is 15 thou and 1/2 is 20 thou so I will probably go for 17 thou.

That will still be hitting hard on the clay ground, tight enough on game but with a peace of mind margin on 1/2 choke for steel.

If it was a game only gun then 13 and 17 would probably suit me fine.

 

[bfltd0]

Bear in mind that steel shot has a different patterning tendency to lead shot, so even a half-choke (20 thou) will pattern more like a full-choke when using steel in it.

So you could take the chokes down to 1/4 (10 thou) or improved cylinder (5 thou) and still get decent patterns with steel.

Full disclosure: I had my fixed-choke game and clay guns taken out to cylinder bore years ago. And I can still hit high birds.................

I have no concerns about using standard steel cartridges in any of them for my usual driven game.

 

[dpaterson]

Send your gun off to Teague - get a full set of chokes, from cylinder to half, and play around until you find what suits your shooting and preferred shells best.

 

[NullMac]

Send your gun off to Teague - get a full set of chokes, from cylinder to half, and play around until you find what suits your shooting and preferred shells best.

Thats a lot of £ versus just easing a couple of chokes plus it must be proofed but when easing chokes it is not necessary

 

[Malxwal]

I'm having to consider this for the 20 bores I have for sale on here. If anyone could point me in the direction of any material on the difference in patterning between steel and lead, it would be appreciated. There's always the possibility that your chosen cartridge is not the one that patterns well/best with your gun/choking.

 

[Tim.243]

I'm having to consider this for the 20 bores I have for sale on here. If anyone could point me in the direction of any material on the difference in patterning between steel and lead, it would be appreciated. There's always the possibility that your chosen cartridge is not the one that patterns well/best with your gun/choking.

That is a long bit of string as 1/2 is the recommended for steel, so your 3/4 full if that is what you have could be x2 1/2
then check it...Dave Carrie tests @ 50 yds as he need a Patten for high stuff..

Ask a good gun smith is the answer..

 

[Malxwal]

That is a long bit of string as 1/2 is the recommended for steel, so your 3/4 full if that is what you have could be x2 1/2
then check it...Dave Carrie tests @ 50 yds as he need a Patten for high stuff..

Ask a good gun smith is the answer..

Aye, it's trial and error, or pick your cartridge and get Teague (or a gunsmith who's prepared to do it) to regulate your chokes to that cartridge, or try a few different cartridges to see what suits the gun.
In my own case, if half choke and steel is more like full with lead, it's probably too much for the game I get to shoot, and the barrels would be better opened out to quarter.

 

[Tim.243]

Aye, it's trial and error, or pick your cartridge and get Teague (or a gunsmith who's prepared to do it) to regulate your chokes to that cartridge, or try a few different cartridges to see what suits the gun.
In my own case, if half choke and steel is more like full with lead, it's probably too much for the game I get to shoot, and the barrels would be better opened out to quarter.

with this being dropped in our lap and at some point steel for pigeons MC steel proof guns will go up in price when the full & E full boys have to bite the (shot) lol
From what I have tried on pigeons 32gm 4/5's in steel will be abt right but if I find any 6's in steel I will give them a go.

 

[bfltd0]

I'm having to consider this for the 20 bores I have for sale on here. If anyone could point me in the direction of any material on the difference in patterning between steel and lead, it would be appreciated. There's always the possibility that your chosen cartridge is not the one that patterns well/best with your gun/choking.

This might give you an overview but there is plenty more info on the net if you look for "steel shot patterning" of "lead versus steel shot"

Steel vs. Lead: Differences You Should Know

 

[Pedro]

I'm a fan of fixed chokes - or was. Changing removable chokes because lead shot is on the way out is a lot easier it turns out.

 

[Cranborne]

Thanks, all. I'll ask Teague to open the 2nd barrel to 3/8ths. I've got a Beretta with multi-chokes which gives me a bit of flexibility.