STIHL CHAINSAW PROBLEM

willowbank

Well-Known Member
Perhaps those among us who use chainsaws everyday could help. I have a 9 month old MS180 this is the second one I’ve owned from new and literally wore the last one out, it was that reliable.

The latest saw seems to have a problem with the choke spindle or master control rod which keeps jumping out of the plastic moulded holder just above the trigger, also the lever sticks in the choke position and doesn’t release when the trigger is activated causing the saw to rev highly on starting until I manually push the lever up to tickover position.

Another query, I contacted the supplier and they said to take it to any authorised Stihl dealer for remedial warranty work which is fair enough but I’m told by the nearest local guy the warranty is with the supplier, this cannot be right surely Stihl are a worldwide company.

Willowbank
 
Not sure on the 180 but most have a small metal U shaped pin holding the rod in position, check that that isn't trapping the rod
 
There are 4 positions on the on /off choke control - off,run,1/2 throttle and choke.

You have to squeeze the trigger before moving the lever to the 1/2 throttle or choke position - other wise it will force the rod out of the clip as you have found.

Stihl recommended cold starting proceedure is to apply chainbrake ,squeeze trigger,select choke position,pull cord until it fires,select 1/2 choke,pull cord until it runs,wait a few seconds ,squeeze trigger to return to idle.

So it will rev fast when you start it in the 1/2 choke position if you don't apply the chain brake.

So to summarise there was nothing wrong with the saw - operator error - READ HANDBOOK
 
There are 4 positions on the on /off choke control - off,run,1/2 throttle and choke.

You have to squeeze the trigger before moving the lever to the 1/2 throttle or choke position - other wise it will force the rod out of the clip as you have found.

Stihl recommended cold starting proceedure is to apply chainbrake ,squeeze trigger,select choke position,pull cord until it fires,select 1/2 choke,pull cord until it runs,wait a few seconds ,squeeze trigger to return to idle.

So it will rev fast when you start it in the 1/2 choke position if you don't apply the chain brake.

So to summarise there was nothing wrong with the saw - operator error - READ HANDBOOK
I assumed he knew all that, but you might be right 😂
 
There are 4 positions on the on /off choke control - off,run,1/2 throttle and choke.

You have to squeeze the trigger before moving the lever to the 1/2 throttle or choke position - other wise it will force the rod out of the clip as you have found.

Stihl recommended cold starting proceedure is to apply chainbrake ,squeeze trigger,select choke position,pull cord until it fires,select 1/2 choke,pull cord until it runs,wait a few seconds ,squeeze trigger to return to idle.

So it will rev fast when you start it in the 1/2 choke position if you don't apply the chain brake.

So to summarise there was nothing wrong with the saw - operator error - READ HANDBOOK
As CJ said here 👍
I recently inherited a 180 and was advised, before his passing, that it was a good saw but poor starter.
Umm tried it and not sure.
Read the online handbook and nothing wrong with it using the intended technique.

I have other Stihl saws but this procedure is quite unique.
Cracking little saw, nice and light for a bit of firewood fiddling.
 
As for warranty that will be right enough.

Think all the small local dealerships are sick off 1 or 2 big chains undercutting them flooding the market with cheap saws and then they bring them to do warranty work.

Althou surprising how cheap some local dealers can be and even if slightly dearer worth it for a local warranty.
And to keep local dealers open.

I have a couple of wee stihls and when u start them u have to let them run for a wee while before u blip the throttle or else they don't run right.
 
There are 4 positions on the on /off choke control - off,run,1/2 throttle and choke.

You have to squeeze the trigger before moving the lever to the 1/2 throttle or choke position - other wise it will force the rod out of the clip as you have found.

Stihl recommended cold starting proceedure is to apply chainbrake ,squeeze trigger,select choke position,pull cord until it fires,select 1/2 choke,pull cord until it runs,wait a few seconds ,squeeze trigger to return to idle.

So it will rev fast when you start it in the 1/2 choke position if you don't apply the chain brake.

So to summarise there was nothing wrong with the saw - operator error - READ HANDBOOK

Fair comment and thank you for your reply but I’ve been using various saws since I was 20yrs On average 2/3 days a week, most autumns through to march, logging then using it again doing pen and high seat repairs.
Also the previous MS180 started and ran perfectly whenever required so can’t really accept op error here BUT tomorrow I will go out and follow the your instructions to the letter, in case I have got in some way sloppy.
Will report back further tomorrow evening. 🤔

Willowbank
 
Fair comment and thank you for your reply but I’ve been using various saws since I was 20yrs On average 2/3 days a week, most autumns through to march, logging then using it again doing pen and high seat repairs.
Also the previous MS180 started and ran perfectly whenever required so can’t really accept op error here BUT tomorrow I will go out and follow the your instructions to the letter, in case I have got in some way sloppy.
Will report back further tomorrow evening. 🤔

Willowbank
,

Sorry chaps posted again in error, would a mod please remove?

WB
,
 
Perhaps those among us who use chainsaws everyday could help. I have a 9 month old MS180 this is the second one I’ve owned from new and literally wore the last one out, it was that reliable.

The latest saw seems to have a problem with the choke spindle or master control rod which keeps jumping out of the plastic moulded holder just above the trigger, also the lever sticks in the choke position and doesn’t release when the trigger is activated causing the saw to rev highly on starting until I manually push the lever up to tickover position.

Another query, I contacted the supplier and they said to take it to any authorised Stihl dealer for remedial warranty work which is fair enough but I’m told by the nearest local guy the warranty is with the supplier, this cannot be right surely Stihl are a worldwide company.

Willowbank
Your warranty should stand with any workshop authorised with Stihl above the door. It is a ball ache if they never sold it but thats why you buy a main brand product for good service coverage accross the uk. Citizens advice will put you right on that.
 
I think first years warranty is with suppler and second year comes from the manufacturer ? That is what I was told when I bought my last 180 .good saws though Just don’t use cheap 2 stroke oil.
 
I think both stihl and husky should go back to having separate controls for each of the functions, ie choke separate to half throttle lock and an on/off switch
 
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